Corey_68

I'm trying to find on a cam for my 468ci with 2.19/1.88 valve iron rectangular heads with dula plne and 850 carb. I have yet to find a mechanical cam w/ solid liters to make more hp and tq than a roller cam and roller lifters at the same rpm. I want the cam to peak at around 6500 rpm and ran the L88 cam and lost 50hp?? :confused: I ran the 292S Copm Cam and lost power as well. I want the rpm potenial as well as the sound of the solid lifter but not at the expense of hp and tq.
Is it really worth the $$ for a roller setup??? :confused:

norvalwilhelm

I don't think roller cams are worth the price. A flat tappet solid is far cheaper and I was alot happier with it then the $1500CDN roller setup I now have. For extreme rpm and high spring pressures they are needed but for everyday driving and the 6500 that you want to turn I would stick with the flat tappet. I am not a fan of hydraulic cams. With proper setup a solid will not need setting more then once a summer.

Corey_68

Any cam reccomedations??? I would like to get 600hp if possible running pump gas.

468ci 4-bolt main w/ forged internals
ported and polished 2.19 heads (iron)
850 carb
ported and polished dual plane intake
hooker sidemount headers
presently has TH400, swaping in a 4speed
3.73 gears

norvalwilhelm

I really like a Crane flat tappet solid F 256/3634-2S-8 . It had .618 lift intake and 256@ .050 and .638 exhaust 264@ .050. Lobe centers were around 108. This cam really came on mid range and hung in there till 7000rpm. Loved that cam but went to a Comp cam Lingenfelter recommended at a cost of $1500 CDN complete and it never pulled like my old Crane. Idle vacuum is low and I ran hydraulic brakes no power unit. The lights were a little slow but they worked fine.

Corey_68

Yeah, I will run a vaccum boster for my lights, wipers, etc. My dad said in the early 70's with his '69 L89 convertible he ran a 300/300 cam and had to lock the headlight in beacause at the top of verey gear they would go down. :lol:

Corey_68

Norvalwilhelm, Do you have the Intake centerline angle on this cam so I can run it on my desktop dyno??
Thanks :cheers:

norvalwilhelm

My lights never had a problem just slow in going up or down. My wipers worked fine but never ever drove in the rain. I don't have wipers anymore. Power brakes could be a problem

Sleper

I have a roller cam and love it. I went from a solid lifter to a full roller. The rpm's are very forgiving and raise very quickly. High rpm's are not noted by roller cams. I float at 6400 rpm. Difference is you do not have to rev so high to get vehicle to move. You can also travel around in third gear instead of first. As you press the gas the rpm do climb quickly expecially in second gear. I truly do like mine. E-mail me if you would like more information. :cheers: :cool: :cool: :cool:

Racer16k

Roller is definitely the way to go! If you lost power with a roller cam then you picked the wrong profile cam. You can definitely pack more into a cylinder with a roller cam profile. As for cost, you don't have to buy new. Used roller lifters for Chevys can be bought for $100 and used billet roller cams can be had for $75 - $150 at swapmeets. Buy triple springs from drag racers used, they think they have really abused them after 75 runs :lol: . That's not even a 25 lap Feature for an oval track car and I'll use them all season. I bought a set of $350 Crower rockers for $50 at a swapmeet and used them on a 406 for 7 years. You just have to look around and know what you're looking for. :D

Corey_68

Give me your cam reccomendations!!
I need ALL of the following to run on the dyno!!!

1) Intake duration
2) Exhaust duration
3) Lobe seperation angle
4) Intake centerline angle

:cheers:

Corey_68

Anyone? :D