mech311

A little while ago, I posted a topic about my clutch making grinding noises when I put the clutch pedal in. We sort of came to the conclusion that the new throwout bearing I put in must be a short one instead of the long one I replaced, and the ball stud that the clutch fork pivots on needs to match the bearing.
So my question is this: Do I need to pull out the transmission and change the bearing, or will it work to just switch the pivot stud for the one that matches that bearing? If that's the case, it would save me an awful lot of hassle pulling the transmission, etc.

Thanks in advance,
Ben

PRNDL

It is my understanding you have to pull the trans to change the ball stud, which is what I need to do, someday. MJ

Noel Carboni

Agree, you can't change the stud without pulling the tranny. Bummer.

FWIW, I have similar noises. I will be investigating them this weekend.

Also, I have ordered the Heim jointed teflon lined linkage kit from Speed Direct: http://www.speeddirect.com/Products/...h_linkage.html
Perhaps this will reduce the need for constant lubrication.

-Noel

GWHITE75

Yes, the stud has to match, and yours might. Your clutch manufacturer probably had a desired distance, between the pivot ball to the face of the flywheel, for proper disengagement. Are you using the original, stock bell housing, shift fork and pivot ball? What brand and style of clutch are you running? The clutch manufacturer should have matched the plate, disc and bearing for you.

If the throwout bearing was the short one, you must have had to have adjusted your clutch rod adjustment nuts out a significant amount for it to disengage properly. Conversely, with the longer throwout bearing, you would have had to re-adjust it back (toward the firewall) a good amount as well. There are different length pivot ***** and adjustable pivot ***** as well. You will have to pull your tranny back (out) in order to replace the pivot ball.

I recently installed a CenterForce disc and plate. They wanted me to make sure my depth, from the flywheel surface to the pivot ball, was a specific length. This distance is crucial for the proper separation of the disc from the pressure plate: too short and the pressure plate would overextend, too long a distance and the plate would not pull off far enough.

When I ran a scattershield/hays clutch system and Doug Nash 5 speed, DN stated they needed a .070 separation for proper speed shifting of the transmission. I had to buy an adjustable pivot ball to get the .070 with the scattershield. Also, examine your fork, mine had a hairline crack in the pivot ball seat. I found it when I cleaned it and the powder ran into the crack. Make sure you are installing the fork properly around the throw out bearing. You can talk with the techincal department of your clutch manufacturer for all of these issues. They know a lot more than you or I.

mech311

Yep, it's the stock bellhousing, shift fork and pivot ball. I just got the clutch kit from Checker Auto. They looked up my car and everything. It never even occurred to me that there would be any differences in the bearing, so I didn't even check (major mistake - never assume Checker will always give you the right thing.... :crazy: )

So it looks like I've got to pull the tranny anyway... bummer is right..
Well thanks SOOOO much for all your help! This forum always helps me out when I'm in a tight spot. Thanks again!!

Noel Carboni

FYI, I've had rotten luck with every brand of throwout bearing except GM and Centerforce. That covers Hays and several others, including some prominently labeled "tougher than stock".

There is apparently a big variance in parts quality with these things.

-Noel