Pulling off and repalcing my intake manifold... steps involved?
02-11-2002, 02:25 AM
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Racer
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Pulling off and repalcing my intake manifold... steps involved?
Can anyone give me a breakdown of how to pull off and replace my intake manifold? I need serious direction on how to remove the distributor and how to re-seal the manifold once it's off? Do I risk "screwing up" my engine if this is done improperly? Any advice on how to avoid breaking/stripping bolts?
Thanks,
Michael.
1973 L-82
Thanks,
Michael.
1973 L-82
02-11-2002, 04:20 AM
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Racer
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Re: Pulling off and repalcing my intake manifold... steps involved? (luvmy73)
any good book will guide you thru this job . no bolts should brake . mark your dist. rotor location on the dist. housing but dont turn your eng. after . Clean gasket surfaces use rags to stop grime from entering your heads etc. cleansiness is important. Take your time when tighting your intake eg suck it down evenly CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN
02-11-2002, 04:16 PM
#4
Le Mans Master
Re: Pulling off and repalcing my intake manifold... steps involved? (luvmy73)
I'm a novice who just did this with help from the forum. Not a big deal.
To mark your distributor's location, put a tape mark on a fender etc alligned with the location that the rotor is pointing. As you pull the distributor out, the rotor will rotate ccw. Pull it out slowly and place another peice of tape alligned with the location the rotor is pointing to as it comes out. This will allow you to put it in pointing at one mark and watch it rotate into allignment with your second mark. I even used stringline to make sure the tape was in the right spot. Now this said, you can't turn your motor over or all bets are off and you'll have to go to the TDC method.
Soak all of the intake bolts with WD-40 or P Blaster overnight or longer to ensure they are lubricated and won't break off. Remove carb etc and note where all of the vacuum hoses go. This is a good time to send your carb to Lars to get rebuilt. He does a great job and does it timely and at a low cost. After you remove the intake, take it to a machine shop and have them vat it, if it's the original, the shop I went to did not recommend blasting it due to the shape of the runners. They didn't think all of the sand would be removed and would get into the clyinders upon start up. After you get it back from the shop, you'll need to do some final cleaning prior to a repaint. Use a wire brush, sandpaper and elbow grease. Prior to painting clean it with acetone. Get new intake bolts, I opted for ARP 12 point ss bolts, pretty and won't rust. :D Clean the head mounting surfaces. Put cotton rag peices in the ports and use a wire braush on a drill. Then you'll need to chase the holes using WD-40 and eventually Q-tips and acetone. You don't want any oil on the thread surface. Finally, place the gaskets and goop the corner of the valley with permatex ultra black and smear some around the water ports on both sides of the gaskets. Put the bolts back in the order by the book and don't over torque any on accident, I did. :cry
Good luck!
To mark your distributor's location, put a tape mark on a fender etc alligned with the location that the rotor is pointing. As you pull the distributor out, the rotor will rotate ccw. Pull it out slowly and place another peice of tape alligned with the location the rotor is pointing to as it comes out. This will allow you to put it in pointing at one mark and watch it rotate into allignment with your second mark. I even used stringline to make sure the tape was in the right spot. Now this said, you can't turn your motor over or all bets are off and you'll have to go to the TDC method.
Soak all of the intake bolts with WD-40 or P Blaster overnight or longer to ensure they are lubricated and won't break off. Remove carb etc and note where all of the vacuum hoses go. This is a good time to send your carb to Lars to get rebuilt. He does a great job and does it timely and at a low cost. After you remove the intake, take it to a machine shop and have them vat it, if it's the original, the shop I went to did not recommend blasting it due to the shape of the runners. They didn't think all of the sand would be removed and would get into the clyinders upon start up. After you get it back from the shop, you'll need to do some final cleaning prior to a repaint. Use a wire brush, sandpaper and elbow grease. Prior to painting clean it with acetone. Get new intake bolts, I opted for ARP 12 point ss bolts, pretty and won't rust. :D Clean the head mounting surfaces. Put cotton rag peices in the ports and use a wire braush on a drill. Then you'll need to chase the holes using WD-40 and eventually Q-tips and acetone. You don't want any oil on the thread surface. Finally, place the gaskets and goop the corner of the valley with permatex ultra black and smear some around the water ports on both sides of the gaskets. Put the bolts back in the order by the book and don't over torque any on accident, I did. :cry
Good luck!