7t2vette

Okay, now that the home pages are back up,I can post some pics on this subject. I will explain to you how I did this on my 72, which did not come from the factory with this option. I am not sure what year this was an option, but I would guess 78 or 79 was the first. Wether or not you can copy what I did on those years and newer, I don't know because I am unfamiliar with the factory set up. If the factory used a two-wire actuator, then you should be able to substitute an aftermarket actuator for the factory piece with a little fabricating perhaps, and it should work provided that the rest of the factory system (relays,circuit breakers,ect...) is in working order. This install is completely hidden for those NCRS types that want to do this-you know who you are *cough* Juliet *cough*

My system is controlled by an aftermarket alarm. The numbers on the wiring diagram inside the relays represents the terminal numbers on the relay. This wiring can be changed to operate any other way you like. My alarm operates the switches I have indicated attached to terminal 86 on both relays. Those "switches" are actually ground output signals from the alarm. If you don't have an alarm, or want to control the locks manually, you will need to install two switches, one for lock, one for unlock, with one side of the switch going to ground as shown in the diagram, and the other side going to terminal 86 of the appropriate relay(lock or unlock). This will operate BOTH doors at once. If you want individual control, then you will have to have a set of switches and relays for each door, for a total of 4 switches and 4 relays.

Electrically speaking, here is how it works: if you look at the diagram, you will see that in it's current state, both coils are open (have no ground input) and both sides of the actuators are grounded. The actuators move in one direction when + and - 12v are applied to the wires, and they move in the opposite direction when + and -12v are reversed. There is no set direction to install them, but you have to get the wiring right to make them move in the right direction when you want to lock or unlock the doors.
When either coil gets a ground signal on terminal 86, it causes the coil to move the internal switch from terminal 87A to terminal 87 which completes the circuit and sends +12v to one side of the actuators (which side depends on which relay coil you just energized). The other side of the actuators is still connected to ground via terminal 30,through the internal switch to terminal 87A ,which is grounded. The actuators move the opposite way when the other coil receives a ground signal on terminal 86.

The actuators can be bought at any good car stereo/alarm store for under$10. The relays can be bought there too or at a car parts place (usually near the fog lights section) for around $5 each. This is an inexpensive project to do, and it is cool too! I prefer to use BOSCH relays for thier quality, I have had cheaper ones crap out on me before.

The physical install is easy too. The hardest part is getting the wires through the rubber conduit between the door and the body. If you look at the pic of my door, you will see where I decided to put the actuators. They fit perfectly behind the door skins here, and are parallel to the lock linkage. They are mounted on the removable cover, with a grommet for the wiring. The rod must be bent by you for proper operation. I drilled the hole in the linkage elbow to hook one end of the rod through it. The actuators come with "clips" that clamp onto the actuator rod and the lock linkage, but the linkage on Corvettes is too big a diameter for these "clips" to work. Bending the rods to work takes a little time, but use mine as guide for bending yours.

I hope I have covered everything, but if I haven't, or if you have a question, feel free to post it.

Bruce

7t2vette

ttt

69shark

Nice job, I've been contemplating this on my 69. How did you get the door panels to go on with the actuator in that location? I was thinking I would have to put them inside the door.

74-Roadster

Very nice and thanks for sharing . . . It does take time to share. You need to submit it as a tech article for others down the road.

Thanks again, this has been on my list for a while now. ;)

zwede

Tom: I installed my actuators in the same location. The door panel fits fine. There is plenty of clearance at this point. I guess GM was either offering or were planning to offer power locks and left space in this spot.

DaveL82

Markus,

I need the part numbers and source for the actuators, and transmitter for remote lock/unlock. You supplied the info a while back, but lost kost of my old emails

My 80 has electric, but what to go remote.

I need to install the entire system on my old Scout II truck

Dave

jbs75

That's where i installed mine, except my actuator is rotated 180 degrees and I clamped the control arm onto the locking arm. More mechanical advantage that way.

Jim

john73bb

When I tried to hook mine up like that, the solenoids didn't have the oomph to pull the locks. I actually had to parallel two solenoids. Now it works. I used the kit from Radioshack.com that has the relays that sense movement of the lock and then open them. That way, you can unlock it with the key and it will open both, or you can use the alarm. Perhaps your solenoids are stronger or something -- they look very similar to mine though, just a different color.

terryrudy

BTW, I put up a page on Corvettefaq.com with your process (with attribution to yourself) so that in the future others may benefit.
thanks for the post!
-terry

zwede

No problem.
http://www.partsexpress.com

330-535 - $69.95 Controller
330-580 - $9.90 Actuator (need 2)
330-070 - $1.99 Genuine Bosh relay (need 2)
330-078 - $1.90 Dual relay socket

7t2vette

Thanks 69shark and 74 roadster, I hope my tect tip will help you guys and anyone else for that matter!
Thanks Terry for posting this at Corvettefaq.com! Wow, I'm famous!! In my own head anyways!!
John73bb, I don't know why your actuators weren't strong enough to move the linkage either, mine move them with a swift authority! ka-bang! ka-boom!
I forgot to mention in the original post where i put the relays. I mounted them behind the passenger side dash, screwed to the windshield frame there.

later

Bruce

Metal Wulf

I'm going to have to try mounting to the pivot point like you did, when i tried the lock arm itself the actuators wouldn't budge...needless to say i was very :mad Hopefully I'll get to try this week/weekend


:cheers:

69shark

Thanks Markus :cheers: :cool:

0Mike69@ECS

Very :cool: