Jay M

I know some people here have ordered it, but has anyone driven with it? How does it steer? Is it as precise as a new Vette, or any modern car?

My steering is very sloppy. I had all the components checked and they are as good as they can be.

I want it to be better. Is Steeroids the answer?

Thanks,
~Jay

Flareside

I wish I knew! My Steeroids should be here tomorrow...:sad:

-Joe

Monty

I took my car aorund the block before we loaded it up onto the trailer. I only got it up to 20-30 mph, but it is tight. There is absolutely no play whatsoever in the steering. If you turn the steering wheel, the wheels immediately start turning, not even as much as 1/8" of play. I rebuilt my steering column last summer, and all the front suspension is like new, with poly bushings - but even the original steering, with new tie-rods and idler had some slop in it. The Steeroids has none. I didn't have the power assist hooked up yet, so I can't really comment on that. The Steeroids site mentioned that it has 2.75 turns stop to stop, but mine only has 2.25 turns.

The Steeroids kit is an answer, but not the only answer. If your original steering is worn, then a good rebuild with new bushings, ball joints, tied rods, rag joint, wheel bearings, etc will make a big improvement.


[Modified by Monty, 1:54 PM 2/6/2002]

Flareside

Hey Monty, how are you going to handle the power steering hookup? I've seen the Aeroquip fittings in the Summit catalog, but I've never actually worked with a home-built hydraulic line. How involved is it?

-Joe

71roadster

This is the other solution (aside from the custom solutions that a few of the craftier members hae developed)...
http://corvettesteering.com/55-57%20chevy.htm

In addition to the kit that they are selling you will need a relay rod for a non power steering car. These can be hard to find. After I converted to power steering I knew that there had to be a way to do exactly what corvettesteering did, so I hung on to my manual steering stuff.

This is the route I am going to go. To me it just seems much cleaner than the steeroids kit. Cheaper too! Not sure about the weight comparison, but however much less the r&p may weigh, it can't be much and it is so low in the chassis that it won't make a noticable difference. And if you wan't to be exact, lightening things up below the center of gravity will actually RAISE the center of gravity, not a good thing (of course, this doesn't stop us from shaving weight wherever we can). Aluminum heads or intake should more than balance this out tho!

I am definitely interested in how both systems drive in a 'real world' environment tho, so let us know when you get that steeroids dialed in.

Monty

I am going with a new style, lightweight aluminum power steering pump with AN fittings. I have a remote mount power steering fluid reservoir mounted to a VB&P spreader bar. As you mentioned, I'll plumb it with Aeroquip fittings and hose. Remember that power steering systems operate at very high pressures, so on the high pressure line from the pump to the rack, I would recommend using Aeroquip's TFE fittings and hoses. They have a much higher pressure rating than the standard AQP hose and fitting. You can use the AQP fittings and hose for the other two lines since the pressure is much lower.

As for assembling the hose and fititngs, it's very easy - especially if you have a bench vise. Get yourself a set of soft-jaw vise inserts to protect the anodized finish of the fittings while you assemble it. I also recommend using a cutoff wheel rather than a hacksaw for cutting the hose, it makes for a cleaner cut. Either way works fine though, but remember to wrap the hose first with some electrical tape or other heavy tape first. With the tape wrapped tightly around the hose, cut through the tapped area. This will prevent the braiding from fraying while you cut it, especially if you use a hacksaw. After you've cut through the hose, remove the tape, and apply so oil to the inside of the hose and the fitting. Twist the nut part of the fitting onto the hose, ensuring that the hose is fully bottomed out inside the fitting. It is recommended that you take a marker, like a Sharpie, and mark the hose where the fitting ends. This lets you know that the hose is fully inserted into the fitting when you try to install the actual hose end into the fitting - and you don't push the hose out. Once you get the hose end into the fitting a couple of turns, put the hose and fitting in the bench vise, so that you can use the appropriate sized wrench to fully install the hose end into the fitting. There should be about a 1/8" gap between the hose end and fitting when it's fully installed, and the mark you made on the hose with the marker should still be against the fittings, letting you know that the hose didn't get pushed out.

If you don't have AN wrenches, a normal open end wrench will work fine, just be careful when you install and remove it on the fitting - if you want the anodized finish to look good and unscratched. Also, try not to let the wrench slip or twist, as this will easily scratch the finish. I've also had good results with an adjustable wrench. I open the wrench up a little wider than the fitting, and put the fitting inside the wrench, and then rotate the wheel to tighten the wrench to size to fit the fitting. The I tighten it, but before pulling the wrench off, I loosen the wrench to make it wider, and then remove it. No scratches to the finish.


[Modified by Monty, 3:04 PM 2/6/2002]

terryrudy

Hey Jay, I agree with Monty. First try a good rebuild and tighten up the steering box good. I bought all new parts and rag joint, etc, and I still had some slop in the steering I was not satisfied with. Very recently I finally tightened up the steering box properly and WHOAH! It made a HUGE difference. The car is a TON more enjoyable to drive. Was one of the best "upgrades" I did to my car, and it cost nothing. Turn-in is tight, predictable, and accurate. Before, my Eclipse felt more assured on the road, now its the other way around. I get in the Eclipse and the steering feels loose and imprecise.
good luck in any case,
-terry

mrvette

Well, guys, I can't comment on Steeroids design because I rolled my own so to speak...and I have had it over that famous 'Buckman Bridge' near me...it's a 4 alne bridge each way....3.5 miles long,....first trip in the 'smooth lanes' and it handled great, great in traffic also....turns on a dime and gives change....
now on the return trip at only 80 mph...over the undulating lanes....the ones with a up/down movement...at 80, the car was great...simple wonderful...
no bump steer even over road hazards in the 'hood' here....

the car is capable of much more than I have stressed it out so far....
so it's a GO design...

and my old system was practically new, and tite as hell, no slop anywhere...
so that means the improvement is REALLY noticeable....

summabitch handles like a go cart....
snicker....

200 bux to do your own....hoses are EASY...just do the '89 Grand Am hoses....

modify easy, just one mod...couple with 3/8 double compression fitting...to the original pressure line out of the pump...return is hose clamped....

GENE

Jay M

Thanks for all the input!

I had the car at Guldstrand recently and asked what could be done to improove the steering. He checked everything and just needed to tighten up the steering box and adjust the power steering. I took it home and was still not happy.

I was there yesterday to have the brakes worked on and while I was there I asked if the steering is as good as possible. He said that it's as good as it gets.

I asked him about Steeroids, and he wasn't aware of it so I just emailed them the link this morning.

My biggest concern is that I'll go to all that trouble and expence for only a slight improovement.

The best car I have driven is a '96 Vette. If I could get that kind of steering on my '68 I'd be a happy camper!

~Jay

mrvette

Jay, I have owned an '87, and the driving experience was just fine....A1 in my book, the rest of the car's reliability left MUCH to be desired, but that had nothing to do with the performance....when it was right....

now having said that....the performance is there with a rack/pinion conversion...makes ALL the differance n the world....for one thing 4 turns vs about -3 turns is much quicker, and the response is outstanding...
all that BS about suspensions, springs, shocks, etc...is a waste of time compared to the rack/pinion conversion.....I have a stock suspension with urethane all around...and it works...wonderfully....
don't forget, my original suspension was practically new and totally tight...
steering box adjusted, but just was not there...I think it was that controll valve in the system that made it that way...but that's just my surmise...

Hib Halverson and I discussed this at length some time ago...on another site...
he was never happy with road feel, 'on center' steering of the original design...and in fact he is correct...as proven to ME anyway....
IMHO roll your own, or do a steeroids....other than TIRES, it s the biggest single imporvement you can do to the car, after that it's the plastic rear spring....then shocks, then front coil springs, then urethane bushings....

GENE

terryrudy

Looking at your site, it looks like you got the stock steering wheel. Wonder how much difference it will make going to a smaller wheel? Just a thought.
good luck,
-terry

Flareside

Monty, thanks for taking the time to write such a detail explanation! This is exactly what I needed to get started. I'm debating adding the Hydroboost power brake booster to my setup, but I had no idea how to plumb it. Now I do!

Thanks again,

Joe

Jay M

Thanks,

I've done the tires- 17"x8" rims 255/45 Potenzas. I haven't updated my picture yet. The potential is definately there, but at 75 mph on the freeway with the concrete wall on my left and a big truck on my right it's becomes very apparent how loose the steering really is!

I may just have to give it a try!

~Jay

427V8

So Gene!
I take it the ol beast is back on the road :cool:

It's really good to hear that you like the conversion, I'll add it to my list....:D

Chuck Harmon

71roadster,

Thanks for the lead on Corvette Steering. I spoke to Tom in S. Carolina, very informative guy! Sounds like a very well enginered unit. The hydraulics are in the steering box, not a ram mounted underneath.

He is checking how wide it is towards the engine side for me. My stock unit virtually touches the header on my BB, hopefully I might have a little more clearance with his. I don't want to smash my pipes to make more room. His complete kit with power steering pump and all is less than $900. Tom said this is the same power steering unit that many use in NASCAR.

Chuck

mrvette

427, well the beast is back on the road, .....snicker,.....sort of....
if you exclude the missing retaining pin in the tranny shift linkage...(I"m embarrassed), or the lack of dashboard, console, and
intrumentation, and such...but YES it more or less RUNZZZ.....as usual, a bunch of bugs to iron out....
and a ton of wiring, this will go on for another few months, minumum....but at least the mountain is behind me,...a
few hills to go....

GENE :D :cool: :cry :cry

VETMANIAC

mrvette,

I was wondering if you have any pictures of your setup or maybe a write up of everything you did to make it fit. I am sure there are plenty of folks here that would be interested in learning how you solved the various problems with installing R&P in a C-3. By the way I checked out your website and I like the shark on your hood. Very nice paint job.

Jim Shea

I still don't understand how the Corvettesteering gear (actually a Delphi 600 gear produced for the Jeep Grand Cherokee) is supposed to bolt to the C3 Corvette frame. The Corvette bolt pattern uses three bolts, the Grand Cherokee gear uses four bolts. The bolt patterns don't line up. I eMailed Corvettesteering with that specific question but they never answered me.

I see that their advertisement seems to have an adapter plate on the gear. However, that would seem to move the gear out of line from the steering column, screw up the steering linkage geometry, and possibly move the gear into the engine.

Having said all the above, the Delphi 600 gear is a real modern recirculating ball power steering gear. It uses a small diameter, light weight, rack and pinion type hydraulic valve and is produced on the latest manufacturing equipment at a Delphi plant in Saginaw, Michigan.

Chuck Harmon

Jim,

Thanks for your points. I will ask Tom when he calls me back tomorrow with his measurements.

Chuck

mrvette

Vetmanic, thanks on the shark compliment, yes I have pix from digital camera, but not keyboard artist enough to get them
from that damn Kodak software to the web site, or here to forum...they are all edited and everything, but just will not leave that
damn software...no click drag, nothing,....all sorts of things work real clunky on my computer here, even this forum will not load
right, and I had to even stop the download of this posting page here otherwise I get a blank screen, and document done at bottom
this happens with either IE or Nets.....I have NO idea why....
I will try once again now to open a page here and post them....

GENE