Caliper Question????????
#4
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Location: central Washington state
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Re: Caliper Question???????? (Bluewasp)
Blue;
You've got to remove the caliper and disassemble it. When you remove the pistons from the caliper bores, check the seals to see if they're o-rings or lip seals.
You've got to remove the caliper and disassemble it. When you remove the pistons from the caliper bores, check the seals to see if they're o-rings or lip seals.
#5
Race Director
Thread Starter
Re: Caliper Question???????? (noxqsz)
Thanks guys!! that was the answer I was looking for.
thanks again!!
thanks again!!
Blue;
You've got to remove the caliper and disassemble it. When you remove the pistons from the caliper bores, check the seals to see if they're o-rings or lip seals.
You've got to remove the caliper and disassemble it. When you remove the pistons from the caliper bores, check the seals to see if they're o-rings or lip seals.
#7
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Re: Caliper Question???????? (jpread)
I believe the o-ring prevents air leaking bake into the caliper through the seal.
I just slapped on Advanced Auto specials before I knew the difference and problems that exist.
I just slapped on Advanced Auto specials before I knew the difference and problems that exist.
#8
Burning Brakes
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Re: Caliper Question???????? (Vader953)
I'm replacing mine this weekend, but it beats me bud.
Sorry ttt
Sorry ttt
#9
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Re: Caliper Question???????? (jpread)
jpread;
In a perfect world, with all new parts and no runout in your rotor/spindle assembly, the lip seals work fine. However, most of us with C3s don't live in that world. Runout in a rotor with a lip seal caliper causes a pumping action that introduces air (and consequently moisture) into the brake system, resulting in a low, spongy, pedal and very poor braking. If your calipers aren't stainless sleeved, you get rust and leakage, as well. Bleeding the brakes solves the problem only until you drive the car again. I've read threads on this forum that describe a simple basically cost-free method to eliminate the runout, but I can't recite it to you from memory and I can't recall who posted them. Perhaps they'll chime in and fill you in. At any rate, o-ring seals in a caliper do not create the pumping action, thus giving you a high, firm pedal, and restored braking that doesn't go away the first time you drive the car. I speak from personal experience. Zero Tolerance is the company that first offered the o-ring seal system, which also requires a different caliper piston, by the way. Cost me $215 for the kit, that included pistons, seals, dust boots, the o-rings between the caliper halves, and instructions. Please feel free to e-mail me if you have any other questions.
In a perfect world, with all new parts and no runout in your rotor/spindle assembly, the lip seals work fine. However, most of us with C3s don't live in that world. Runout in a rotor with a lip seal caliper causes a pumping action that introduces air (and consequently moisture) into the brake system, resulting in a low, spongy, pedal and very poor braking. If your calipers aren't stainless sleeved, you get rust and leakage, as well. Bleeding the brakes solves the problem only until you drive the car again. I've read threads on this forum that describe a simple basically cost-free method to eliminate the runout, but I can't recite it to you from memory and I can't recall who posted them. Perhaps they'll chime in and fill you in. At any rate, o-ring seals in a caliper do not create the pumping action, thus giving you a high, firm pedal, and restored braking that doesn't go away the first time you drive the car. I speak from personal experience. Zero Tolerance is the company that first offered the o-ring seal system, which also requires a different caliper piston, by the way. Cost me $215 for the kit, that included pistons, seals, dust boots, the o-rings between the caliper halves, and instructions. Please feel free to e-mail me if you have any other questions.