VTHokie77Vette

Hey Guys. I'm thinking of getting a new cam for my '77. I was wondering if I could get an estimate for the $$$ a shop would charge to change out a cam, from someone who's had it done. Thanks.

EarnIt

I just bought and installed a Crane Energizer H266 in my 77 L48. Bought it from Jegs for $77.99 plus gasket set. Total spent right around $200.00.
Made a world of difference in the way it runs. So if you can do it yourself you can save a bundle. Since most shops around here charge $50-$65 an hour
I think your looking at a $500 bill at the least.

bence13_33

I totally agree. I installed the Comp Cams High Energy 268 and noticed a pretty significant difference in acceleration. I would say, do it yourself if you feel capable. I believe if you had a shop due the job you're looking at AT LEAST $400 in labor. It's really not that tough (seems like it the first time you do it) but if you run into any problems the Corvette Forum is always here. :cheers:

VTHokie77Vette

Thanks guys. I consider myself to be pretty mechanically inclined. I just haven't really gone too much in depth in engines, but this may be a good thing to try since this is pretty much a temp project 350engine anyway. I do have a question about what else I need to get. Do I need to buy the kit (about $170), lets say for the 260H Comp Cam, or can I just buy the cam (about $100)? I notice the Crane cams are on Jegs for about $80, what are they missing from the kit of the Comp Cams? And what gaskets do I need and would they be included in the kit? Sorry for all the questions, I'm just trying to learn something, and I just want to thank you Bence, because you've been helping me out a lot lately with my posts.

bence13_33

If you get the High Energy 260H, you will want to get (at the very least) the cam & lifter kit. You don't want to use your old lifters with your new cam. Jeg's carries a gasket kit especially made for cam changes. For your small block Chevy the part number is #720-4403K and the price is $52.99. This kit includes a new timing chain, all the gaskets needed, RTV sealant, rocker arm splash shields (used when adjusting your valves) and the most important item the cam brake in lubricant. I purchased this kit whenever I did my cam change and found it included everything I needed.

You will quickly find out that most of the time spent on the cam installation is CLEANING. Scraping old gaskets is a PITA and takes up a good bit of time, but is a very important part of the cam change.

The Crane cam kits are VERY affordably priced. It appears that it comes as a cam and lifter kit for $77.99. One thing I noticed when comparing the Comp Cam to the Crane Cam was this.

Crane Cam- Advertised Duration 260, .427" Lift
Comp Cam - Advertised Duration 260, .440" Lift

I was always taught that when choosing and comparing cams to always go with the cam with more lift at the same duration. The Comp Cam has the same duration as the Crane but has .013" more lift. The difference might be minimal but that's what I look at when comparing cams. Have I confused you yet? :)

tnt76vette

New cams require new lifters, to keep warranty of cam good....some new cams (higher lift ones w/.460 of lift or more) require new valve springs. I installed my compcams260H cam using new lifters, and old valve springs, and it runs just fine... :D . I highly recommend (if you legally can) getting rid of your stock exhaust system and going w/a true dual system of some type...another kick in the butt experience that you will make you :D :D :D . Good Luck :seeya

EarnIt

I got the cam and lifters, and the cam change gasket kit from Jegs for $140.00. Then I still had to get 5 quarts of oil, a filter, 2 gallons of antifreeze, and a timing chain cover oil seal. Also some red loctite and a new set of intake bolts. Spent around $200.00 total. If you take your time and double check things like timing marks, and not forgetting to tighten bolts it`s not that difficult. Labeling where things go like vaccum hoses helps too. So I say go for it. There`s a pretty good procedure at http://www.corvettefaq.com which can help
also all of the knowledge on this forum is priceless.

VTHokie77Vette

Thank you guys so much for all the info. It looks like I'm leaning towards the Comp Cam 260H kit. I still have a while to think it over though. tnt76vette, I already got rid of the stock exhaust and I'm running true duals off the manifolds, and you are right, that was my favorite mod so far. Early summer, I am definitely getting some Dynomax headers. Thank you guys so much once again for all the info.

Aaron-74

I've got an XE-262-H


Email me, and I can tell you how to install it...if you want to save some money.

VTHokie77Vette

yeah... saving money is always a good thing. i know i can buy the cam. but the labor is a bit much. i may be giving my car to my friends dad to do it for me while i'm away at school. its time for me to give this L-48 some *****.


[Modified by VTHokie77Vette, 4:17 PM 2/3/2002]

bob myers

VT,
If you decide to replace the timing set and valve springs[it`s the time to do it]I have new in the box, both a timing set and valve springs made by Comp cams. I bought them with a set for my 268 comp cam, but did not use them as my parts were virtually new. If interested, I will sell for $60 plus ship cost. Thanx, Bob myers,NC

Aaron-74

Just to insure that nothing failed, I bough new Comp springs and lifters. And a Clyoes double roller timing chain. If you buy a Comp Cam and dont use the lifters and the springs and it craps out, it your fault from what comp cams says and you wont get a refund.

Aaron-74

If you have an Th-350 and you don't want to change the stall speed, the biggest you can go is the XE-262-H. If you've got a pretty much stock Vette, this is what Desk Top Dyno says you'll have.
XE-260-H-(L-48 Motor)----------(L-82)
245HP@4500--------------------251
353@3000 FTLBS---------------362

XE-262-H(L-48)
249HP@5000--------------------258@4500
357@3000flts-------------------356

XE-268-H (L-48)
255HP@5000-------------------265
335@3500---------------------344

That's stock heads, and exhaust(with performance mufflers) dual plane intake and a 600CFM carb.

thebruce

VTHokie-

I was in the same position last fall-- I consider myself mechanically inclined (I've done brakes, suspension, etc) but I had never taken the engine apart on my own. I bought the CompCams XE268 'K' kit, which included the cam, lifters, timing gears/chain, valve springs/locks, etc. I used Terry Rudy's pictures of his cam swap (he's on the forum and put together a great pictorial on his website). The swap went well with only a few glitches (USE NEW BOLTS!). I don't remember Terry's web page address, but you can probably find him on the Forum pretty easily.

Once you do the swap, you may wind up addicted to engine work, and wind up doing a heads/intake/headers/carb swap like I did.

Good luck!
:flag


[Modified by thebruce, 11:22 PM 2/4/2002]

VTHokie77Vette

:lol: :lol: Thanks for the info thebruce. I'll try to becareful with the addiction. I think you are right though. I'd probably get in pretty deep.

Tom454

All good advice.... I'll add a penny...

Be wary of "generic" timing chain/gear sets that come in kits.

The $17 el-cheapo sets are usually made from "powdered metal" and are loose at 6000 miles.
It's better to get a "true roller" type set which typically last 150,000 miles under "normal" use.

If you choose to do it yourself, you will need to have access to a harmonic balancer remover/installer. If you pound the balancer back on (like Bubba will suggest), you can/will ruin the balancer. The crank snout must be threaded (not all are) to use this tool.

You can make your own "tool" to hold the cam up off the cam bearings while removing the old & inserting the new.... just buy three 10 inch bolts to screw into the cam to hold it. If you drag the cam across the soft cam bearings, you will have an oil pressure loss, and cam journal damage (another favorite Bubba trick).

You have to remove the fuel pump to get the pump actuating rod out of the way to yank the cam. Not all Chevy small blocks have a threaded accessory hole on the front where a bolt can be carefuilly inserted to hold the fuel pump rod up for re-installing the fuel pump. If yours has the hole, then good, but remember, just finger tight on the bolt. The rod & bore are a machined surface. If no hole, use some grease on the rod to hold it up.

JohnS_77

Aaron-74: How would the numbers look for an L-82 with headers, true duals with h-pipe, Edelbrock performer intake manifold, Edelbrock 600cfm carb, and the XE-262-H cam?
THANKS!
John


[Modified by JohnS_77, 9:04 AM 2/5/2002]

bigvette1

The $400 quote is pretty accurate. You are looking at removing the fan, radiator shroud, radiator, A/C coil (if you have one), balancer, water pump and all the belts and brackets in the way. Also, the valve covers, intake, dist. and all the other goodies, rockers, & valve train, Then pull the timing cover, chain etc. and install. Unless you have done this kind of work before, the $400 or so is really not that bad.
PS - Please use new lifters and new chain and gear, it is necessary.

PSS - Is an engine rebuild in the future, be surprised how easy it is when the engine is on a stand and you have to take it apart anyway.

VTHokie77Vette

Its a fairly new engine, less than 10,000 miles. So, next time the engine comes out a big block is going in. :D I've found that looking for a cam is completely overwhelming when you don't really know too much about it.