VolVette

I plan to install my Dynomax Ceramacoat Headers this weekend but want to do everything right and not have surprises later. I was wondering if you could suggest what type of gaskets and header bolts to use? Should I just use the gaskets provided with the headers and standard bolts? (By the way, these are going onto a ZZZ crate engine.)

Stephen

Alwyn678

Do not use the gasket provided they are cheap paper JUNK....go with Mr Gasket coppers or Percy's Aluminum gaskets....The bolts they provide are fine however u could go with with stage 8 locking bolts...I went with what they sent(Dynomax) :cheers:

70PurpleLS7

Well the Mr. Gasket Ultra Seals always seemed to work for me.. I would not use the gaskets provided with the headers. The Ultra Seals have a steel screen inpregnated into the gasket material so it won't blow out nearly as easy as paper gaskets. You can use copper, but we've only gotten complaints because both the head/header surface has to be perfect or they'll leak. Haven't heard much feedback on aluminum gaskets but at least they will "give" so they'll adapt to any imperfections.

I've always used ARP SS Header bolts and have had no problems. I just re-torque them after installation and and initial fire up. I do go over them once in a blue moon, but that's just me... Stage 8's are a pain in the **** if ya ask me and not worth the $30 your shelling out for them. But if that's what ya want and ya want the hassles of playing with the c-clip to secure them, by all means go for it.

On a side note - when you buy/order gaskets - get the gasket that matches the shape of the port on the header flange, not the exhause port of the head.

Have fun!!!!! :cheers:


[Modified by 70PurpleLS7, 10:39 AM 2/1/2002]

ED DINAPOLI

Stephen,
If the heads and headers are new. Dont use any gaskets, they only cause problems. Just use the red high temp silicone , that you would probably use any way, and torque them as you normally would. Check the torque after a few hours of running, and then again in severalal weeks. I promise you this works better than gaskets.
Ed

Noel Carboni

Ditto on the metal gaskets. I use the ones that encapsulate a gasket material in metal covers with little holes punched in.

A trick solution to the bolt loosening problem is to get Stage 8 locking header bolts with the little moon-shaped locking cams. Basically, you get the bolts tight, retighten after a few days of use, then put these little cams over the heads to keep them frmo backing out. They engage the hex of the head and don't allow it to turn due to interference with the tube. A C-clip goes on to keep the cam there. An added benefit is that the bolts also accept an allen wrench to help you with the tight places in the front and back.

An internet search of "Stage 8 locking header bolts" turned up this, among others: http://www.racenet.net/missing.php3?...xh/stage8.php3


-Noel

VolVette

Thanks for your comments.

Ed,

My engine has about 20,000 miles on it but I can probably get a pretty clean seal on them. I have never heard of doing this but like the idea.

Other opinions?

70PurpleLS7

20,000 miles is not new... "Probably" would leak...


[Modified by 70PurpleLS7, 11:01 AM 2/1/2002]

Ganey

Just use any premium gaskets & you can retorque from time to time or get the locking. Should not leak either way.

:cool:

73Ken73

If you have good gaskets then the bolts shouldn't come loose. I used Earl graphoil gaskets and the standard bolts. My bolts have not come loose. The graphoil worked great . I have packed valves at work with graphoil and switched 800 degree F fuel at 5000 psi.

thejaf

I used Mr. Gasket Ultra Seals this past October. They were less than $15 for the pair. I've never done this before, and I don't have any leaks after initial torque. :smash: