bence13_33

I was talking with a kid I play basketball with today about cars. He has an Eclipse and he was looking at "go-fast goodies." He told me that he was going to pick up a header, exhaust & intake for $1300 :eek: (used intake and header). My jaw nearly hit the ground! He also referred to the header as "headers"....I said "you have a 4 banger buddy, it's a header (no pluralization needed :) )." I priced my header exhaust and intake and it came out to be $600....hmmm less than half the price. I just found it shocking that someone would pay that much for a header exhaust with an intake. Oh well to each their own.

I hope to place my order with Jeg's sometime this week. I believe I will probably order:

7/16" ARP Rod Bolts
ARP Main Stud Kit
Comp Cams 294S Magnum Cam :yesnod:
Solid Lifters
Matching Valve Springs & Keepers

I should be able to assemble almost the entire engine then! It's getting closer, and I am really anxious...I've missed a few nice winter cruising days because I started the project prematurely. In the end I hope it's worth it. :cheers:

Shark Racer

On some of them, you can refer to it as "headers" because they are actually two piece, one header covers two cylinders. :) But either way, costs on those suckers is one hell of a lot! Gain next to null. You're goin' strong, man. I can't wait to hear how it runs.
Maybe if yours turns out great the first time around, I'll have the same luck building up my small block. Make sure you get sound files/video/pics!
-Steve

Stingy74

You should be able to get this as a kit. :yesnod:

Signal

Bence--Hey that price sounds similar to the price I'd be looking at if I would have kept my 1998 TransAm! :) I'm looking forward to getting back to the 'ol '77!...By the way if you come back to this thread, I have a question for ya...I sometimes think I'd be cool to put in a GM 502 block in the '77 but worry about how much modification is involved...I don't wanna really cut anything up or move the accessories all around...Is it more a matter of changing suspension and a few brackets or does it indeed require alot more?...Since you're doing the conversion just thought I'd ask...Good luck with your project, sounds EXCITING!!!... :cool:

Jason

Flareside

Bence, maybe the header(s) and exhaust are stainless? :confused: Check out how much those parts would be for a C5. $$$$

Have you priced a fuel injection manifold lately? I have, and it ain't pretty! The manifold and air filter combo I'm contemplating at the moment will cost around $900 by the time I'm done :eek:

ARP rod bolts are definitely a wise investment. They are the most important bolt in your engine!

Don't feel bad about missing a few nice days. Heck, I'm still taking my car apart! :lol: :lol: Hopefully, we'll get a good cold blast this February!

-Joe

terryrudy

Yeah, its silly the price that people pay for this import stuff. :( Though FWIW, a couple weeks back some eclipse vendors on the Eclipse list were commenting on how much C5 people were paying for parts. Half-jokingly, they were thinking of getting into C5 parts business! :crazy:
-terry

PRNDL

At least he wont have to spend money rebuilding his Qjet!! :rolleyes:
MJ

American Boy

At that price (1300$), you should let him thinks he's buying 2 headers. Nothing compares to a V8, the sound, the torque and rear wheel drive power slide. :D

Stephan

bence13_33

Pacin' California:
I'll have to get one of my buddies to help me get some sound clips and burnout video once I get the engine together. A lot of that computer mumbo-jumbo is over my head :)

Stingy:
Thanks for the heads up.

Signal:
The motor itself will bolt right into your car. The main things you would need to change are the brackets (change to big block brackets) and heavier coil springs for the front.

Joe:
I really gotta get cracking on this big block project, college has kind of slowed it down a bit but I am still confident that it will be on the road in early spring time. Have you decided what you're going to put inside of that Merlin block? :)



[Modified by bence13_33, 8:15 PM 1/31/2002]

Shark Racer

Drive it on over to CA, I'll take care of the video business. :) You do the video taping, I'll do the driving, editing, and uploading. Fair deal, right? :)
-Steve


[Modified by Pacin'California, 6:19 PM 1/31/2002]

Flareside

We'll, I'm making progress, albeit slowly... I finally broke down and ordered the AFR 325 heads, but they won't be here for a while. Flatlander says a few weeks, the tech at AFR says more like 2 months :mad :mad

I also ordered a rotating assembly from Flatlander this week. Scat 4340 4.25" stroke forged crank, Scat 4340 H-beam rods with ARP bolts, SRP 10:25.1 pistons, Clevite H bearings, SRP moly file-fit rings and floating pins. I wanted Crower Sportsman I-beam rods, but Phil, the owner of Flatlander, was pretty adamant that the H-beams are both cheaper and stronger. He's running them in his race cars at well over 1000 HP. Mountainmotor's been helping me through email all week with the fit details. Next on the list is a cam. "to roller or not to roller" is a heavily opinionated topic! Maybe I'll just go with the 294S :eek: :cheers:

I tore my 427 intake manifold off last night so I can test fit a few new single plane manifolds. I WILL FIT EFI UNDER THE STOCK HOOD!

-Joe

bence13_33

Joe:
I have decided that I'm going to get a Richmond 5 speed and a nice set of aluminum AFR heads whenever I have some money laying around....the flow numbers of the AFR heads are just so persuasive :).

So you aren't sure whether or not you are going to roller cam the engine? If I had the money you can bet your bottom dollar that I would have a roller setup.

Flareside

Yea, I'm still leaning toward the roller. I just couldn't stomach my shiney new motor being destroyed by a lifter with a bad attitude :eek:

Some people say it's the only way to go due to the obvious HP and torque benefits, but others say that they can be unreliable, cause excessive lifter wear, and can pound your valve seats to heck.

The AFRs do appear to outflow the competition, but I guess the proof will be in the pudding. We'll see... Have you checked out their recently updated web site? Lots of new information, including flow numbers from CHP performed at an independant flow bench. I went with them because they are obviously the best flowing head that DOESN'T have a .6" or more raised exhaust port. The AFR port is only raised .3", so they should be easier to fit in our cars. The only other .3" head is the Dart Pro-1, but the CHP flow numbers leave something to be desired...
The CHP numbers are nothing like the numbers Dart is touting on their web page. The AFR and Canfield numbers are very close, so I felt a lot better about them. I would have ordered the Canfields if they had a lower port.

-Joe