terryrudy

I'm a happy camper. Wow, they recommend a lot of stuff to go along with the heads. I plan on following instructions but would like to minimize the amount of extra stuff I gotta get. I would like to get some roller rockers. I figure those at about $160. Then some nice felpro gaskets. Do I REALLY need any of the other items on a 65k mile motor? ie: head bolts, head studs, rocker stud girdles, pipe plugs & adapters, pushrods? Sorry I am completely new at head replacement, so I don't know squat.

BTW, these heads are about 30 pounds a piece. I shutter to think how heavy those stock heads are.
thanks
-terry

Stingy74

I would atleast get ARP head bolts with the built in washer. When I had my Brodix DragonSlayers the helper guy at the machine shop used the stock bolts without washers and they made a nice grove where the head of the bolts meets it's mating surface on the cylinder head. It actually dug in a bit! I now use ARP bolts for my specific application, and they should make they for your app. too.

Matt Gruber

i use stock bolts & Mr Gasket washers-$6.95

mountainmotor

Can you post some pics for those who have not seen them other than magazines?

terryrudy

thanks for advice guys. I'll take pics when I get home tonight and post them and letcha know.
-terry

Gordonm

I used ARP head bolts on my AFR heads. The bolts you took out are slightly stretched. To me it was cheap insurance. my heads came with the rocker studs in them. I had to get new pushrods for my heads. I think I needed about .150 longer. I used the Magnum roller tip rockers. Unless you are using a roller cam you don't need full roller rockers. Stud girdle is not needed unless you are planning a lot of rpm.

Stingy74

Or a solid cam for that matter.

terryrudy

Here are pics: http://www.bokonon.net/corvette/heads/new/index.htm

I'll post more details once I get around to installing these bad boys. I can't wait! enjoy.
-terry

Stingy74

I just noticed the guide plates. Make sure you use hardened pushrods.

terryrudy

Thanks Stingy, Adding it to my list. :)
-terry

mean8t

If you are going to use roller rockers you need guide plates, the guide plates require screw in studs. The guide plates run about $25 and so does the ARP 7/16" rocker studs, and the machine work runs $70-$80 depends you might be able to get it cheaper if you shop around.

john's '81 mouse

Agree you should get new head bolts/washers designed for use with aluminum heads, and hardened pushrods, if these heads have guideplates. Comp cams roller tip rocker arms at about $150 are all you need, good article on these in current issue of Vette magazine by the way.

Also suggest you get / install studs wherever possible in you new aluminum heads, will eleminate possibility of stripping out those threads, likewise if running an aluminum intake manifold, which I'm sure you are or will be.

thebruce

Terry-

Maybe I can pay you back for the help you gave me on the cam swap. I put the TFS heads on two weeks ago-- because I replaced almost everything else with it (headers, intake, carb, etc) and I'm still tweaking and tuning I can't tell you how they run, but installation was no problem. I decided to go with head bolts from the local auto parts store because when I ordered from Jegs, the ARP were back ordered. After my experience :mad breaking a cam bolt, I'm a big proponent of new bolts. I also liked saving about $35 by not using ARP.

I haven't had any leakage yet (knock on wood) and I followed the TFS recommendations on sealant. I also went with the Mr. Gasket gasket set because it was cheaper than buying head gaskets and intake gaskets separately. According to a local engine builder, for what I've got in the engine they're fine.

If you run into any installation questions, I'd be happy to talk to you. My guess is you know more about what you're doing than I do.

-Bob Bruce
robertwbruce@yahoo.com

thebruce

I completely forgot to mention that I went with the Crane Cams Energizer 1.6 roller rockers. I was worried about valve cover clearance so I also got Edelbrock tall valve covers, but I'm not sure it was necessary. I chose the Crane rockers because they are aluminum and about the same price as the Comp Cams Magnums.
:cheers:

glen242

Terry:

Thinking back on my install, a few things finally came to mind.

The TF heads did not bolt up nicely to my Edelbrock Performer manifold. The bolt holes in the heads, I was told by TF, are a little higher than on the stock heads. TF told me to check for binding on the intake as I ran the bolts in. Sure enough, the intake bolts were cutting into the intake boss as I tightened the bolts. TF advised me to take a Dremel and enlarge the holes in the intake to the point where the bolts would not bind.

After doing that, I still was not happy with the way the intake fit. The ports on the Performer did not match up worth a crap with the ports on the heads. TF recommends a FelPro 1205 gasket for use on their heads, Edelbrock recommends a smaller port gasket for their Performer intake. I ended up using a Performer RPM intake that has ports the same size as the TF heads and 1205 gaskets.

terryrudy

thanks thebruce and glen242, I appreciate the insights and advice. I am not sure how easy the project will be, but I will document it again like the cam swap one. thanks for the help.

And now I am a little worried about the intake alignment. Printing this thread out in case I run into port matching problems. :eek: <crossing fingers>
-terry