Steve Straus

I'm being offered a Crower roller cam for a decent price. From what reading this looks like it would be a little rough (I'm not sure which to read, the 287/296 or the 229/237.

287/296 Adv, 229/237 @ 050, 331/344 lobe lift.

Factor in rocker arm ratio:
1.7 = 563/585 & 1.8 = 596/619

Steve Straus

TTT

(Anyone can feel free to jump in here :))

bence13_33

Sounds like a nice little(used loosely) cam! Being a roller cam, you can run a more agressive lobe profile while still maintaining streetability. A know very little about roller cams but is it a hydraulic or solid roller cam (or can you use either type of roller lifter with a roller cam)?

Steve Straus

I'm not sure if the cam determines what kind of roller lifter you have to use. I would assume since it's roller that you could use either, you would just have to use different pushrods, but I don't know for sure. It's a hydraulic roller setup.

Ganey

What's the LS & cam no.?
You would probably be better off w/ a new cam instead of used.

Steve Straus

I asked the seller for that information. As soon as I get it I'll post it.

The cam is new, not used.

Thanks.

mean8t

The cam determines every thing just like in the flat tappet world. Solids are solids and hydraulics are hydraulics.

Steve Straus

I understand that, but wouldn't a roller cam be the same for a solid or hydraulic roller lifters?

Steve Straus

I got this info from the seller:

Three numbers on the cam are

E16936
2296
6224

LSA is 118 degrees

mountainmotor

Steve'
I doubt the LSA is 118.Possibly 118 exhaust center line when installed.

My advice would be to hold off on a cam until you know what heads,compression,intake manifold,exhaust and CFM and style of carb you will be using.Gears and transmission as well.
If on a budjet cam and lifters can be bought from 80.00 to 110.00 and these do not require expensive springs and pushods to reduce deflection from the higher spring pressure.

Steve Straus

I think you're right about that. 118 is the LC,

Here's what I'm going to run:

9:1 compression pistons (gotta drive it on pump gas)

I'm going to start with a milled down edelbrock torker II, I know it's a single plane but I'll have to use it until I can find a dual plane that will fit under my BB hood.

Merlin Aluminum Oval port heads with 2.30 Intake valves".

Holley 800 CFM double pumper 415 with Mech. secondaries.

I'm going to keep my M-21 and 3.70 Rear. They are freshly rebuilt.

So esentially, I have held off on the cam, now is the time for me to pick it out. I've been reading up on them, but am still not an expert like some of the people on here.


Thanks



[Modified by Steve Straus, 12:42 PM 1/30/2002]

mountainmotor

Steve,
Learning is part of it and learning at anothers expense is a whole lot cheaper!

Good information concerning your parts-You have mail. :)


[Modified by mountainmotor, 12:19 PM 1/30/2002]

zwede

That sounds like a decent cam for the motor you're building. I used to run something similar before EFI:

454. 9.5:1 CR. Edelbrock aluminum heads. Torker II + Holley 750. Cam hydraulic roller, 224/232. 573/585 lift. 114 LS. Made 390 rear wheel hp, 440 torque (490 flywheel hp, 550 flywheel torque).

You can run more than 9.0:1 with aluminum heads. 9.5 is safe. I tried 89 octane and it didn't ping.

mean8t

NO a solid roller cam will NOT work with hydraulic roller lifters, and vice versa.

Steve Straus

Good to know. Any reason why?

mean8t

Profiles are different, the solid rollers are much more aggressive profiles than the hydraulic counter parts. You will tear the cams up using the wrong lifters.

Steve Straus

Makes sense.

Steve Straus

http://www.crower.com/pdf/48.pdf

4th one down on the list, it's the only thing in Crowers line that matches the cam number's the seller gave me from above.

It says the Grind Lobe Center is 110 degrees, is that the same as the LSA? Is this thing streetable? I'm not building a race car, but I do want the engine to bump when it idles and I want gobs of power.