Juliet

I'm just getting started on my rear suspension rebuild. I'm going to pull the T-arms and bring them to Tony's for rebuild. What else should I do while I'm at it? I've got a list of ideas, but I'd like to see what you guys think. Thanks, ~Juliet

jbs75

having just rebuilt my trailing arms; do the strut rod bushings also, check emerg. brake cables and lube, maybe since your partway there already, pull the cover off of the differential and check your yokes. i'm assuming your going for stainless emergency brake hardware inthe drums. replace shocks. new t-arm bumpers. stainless shim kit for adjusting, and of course, fresh paint on everything.

Jim

flynhi

There is a rubber bushing at the front of the differential that is often mised. Recommend using VB's poly.

On a different topic, a friend is looking at a 75 and I seem to recall that some time ago you offered a list of items to check when evaluating a potential purchase. Is that list archived somewhere? If so, please email me at will_shepherd@hotmail.com

Thanks for sending the cowl induction article a few days back - very interesting.....
W.

78Vette-SA

Not to mention calipers, pads, brake lines, rear spring bushing, differential bushing, ujoints, rear wheel bearings.... :D :yesnod: :D

When I did mine I was just going to clean things up and ended up ripping everything out down to the frame and worked from there. Made a nice winter project.

Juliet

Thanks for the ideas. :) The brakes & lines were installed brand new about 11k miles ago. That was part of my 'get it on the road' work I had done at Tony's when I first got Sophia. I'll definately put in less squeaky pads and get the rotors checked (turned if needed). I think they may have some runout issues due to the NOISE they make! :eek: I'm also debating on dropping the rear diff etc due to the leak. (But that's in another thread). :) Thanks. ~Juliet

killain

This may sound stupid Juliet, But I'd drop the spare tire carrier and wire brush and clean as much of the frame and the crossmember as you can and paint it, and I'd replace all the brake hoses and clean and install new U joints.

Mack

I'd say, "While you're at it...", go ahead and pull the differential and have it rebuilt. That'll take care of the leak and you'll be good for another 60k to 100k miles. I replaced everything but the differential when I rebuilt the rear end. Then I had to come back and do the differential. That meant that I had to take the whole rear end apart again. It'll be pretty easy while you've got everything apart. Just disconnect the drive shaft, unbolt the cross member and drop the whole thing out. Also, there are two cushions on the front differential mount. Be sure you replace both of them. From my experience and the comments I've seen here, it appears that everybody found the bottom cushion had been replaced, but the top one gets ignored by previous owners

Jvette73

Fing a good alignment shop after its togeather. I can help you with a recomendation in this area if needed.

fauxrs

Juliet,

Since I'm nearing completion of my own rear end rebuild I can tell you what I have done, and learned.

All the posts above are good ideas. I'll add or modify them.

1. Dont just check the strut rod bushings...replace them, they are inexpensive and will eliminate the need further on down the road for this work.
2. Absolutely get all stainless trailing arm hardware - I was finally able to get the recalcitrant bolt head out of my frame but it took a cold steel chisel to do it. - Stainless hardware and a liberal dose of a protective lube on the hardware will eliminate this need inthe future.
3. Crack the diff and check the yokes - these wear and the last thing you want to do in a year is pull it because of too much wear. also have tony check the torque specs on the posi clutches (I dont know the specific value but they can be checked - its another one of those items you'll wish you looked at when you had it apart)
4. detail as much as you can. Every part I have taken off with few exceptions has been bead blasted and POR-15'd prior to being reinstalled - I just did the halfshafts and sway bar brackets yesterday. I also POR-15 the differential and rear cover. (Since you are more of an NCRS type than I you obviously will want to use original paints and colors/finishes)
5. Definitly do the pinion bushing
6. Get new shocks (although this can be easily put off to any time of your convenience)


I took the outlook that I wanted to do this once and basically NEVER AGAIN. with that in mind I have looked at every part that goes round and round or up and down with an eye towards either repair or replacement. considering the time and cost involvment that one incurs on these rear ends especially if you have to pay labor costs. I cant see why anyone would skimp.

you can read about some of my stuff here http://earchitect.50megs.com/corvette/susp.html


[Modified by fauxrs, 8:33 AM 1/27/2002]

Juliet

Thanks everyone. :) I haven't decided on the rear diff yet. I'm leaning towards taking it out & the drive shaft etc... I'll see if I run out of ambition first. ;) Tony's Corvette does the 4 wheel alignment, so I'll take it there. Thanks. :) I know they'll be thrilled to hear I'm putting the holed shims (not slotted ones) back in the rear T-arms. :jester: - that is if I find a source for them (I haven't prowled the catalogs yet). The old ones just crumbled to pieces! I'm also going to replace the brake line between the right and left sides. The other brake lines from the frame crossmember to the calipers (and the calipers themselves) are new and in fine shape so I'll reuse them. I will get new pads though. Thanks. ~Juliet

VegasJen

i would just like to throw out one word of caution on the detailing of the undercarrage as i did this about two years ago. my diff leaked from two of the three shaft seals, and did for quite a while. when i pulled it and had it rebuilt, i figured this would be the perfect time to clean 140,000 miles worth of gunk from the bottom of the car. well, little did i know that all that gear oil i had been flinging around under there had soaked into the undercoating and made it very soft. soft enough for some simple green and tap water to take off! i'm not recommending not doing this but if you are one of the NCRS types, you might want to know before everything is out that you may need to apply new undercoating.