vettextc42

How fast should the headlights flip up. I'm getting a story from a seller about how the engine has to be running and that it takes a while for the vacuum to build up. Sounds like a load of :bs The car is really sharp, however the body is cracked front and rear, the tail and the nose are warped badly and the door panels need replaced. Any 82 owners out there with some of the real story?
Thanks,
Brandon :cool:

82dukman

I have an 82 Colelctors Edition. When i start the car after about 10 sec I can "open" the lights. Some sort of vaccum has to build but not a lot.
The engine does have to be running, they are not controlled by motors like the newer ones. Why is the body cracked front/rear? And where?
Hope this helps. :seeya

vettextc42

The right rear quarter is cracked badly behind the fender all the way through in several places, the left front is cracked from the nose back to about halfway back to the wheel well. The paint is in decent shape, black with white/blk leather interior, mirrored glass tops, chrome rocker panels, polished factory wheels with the spinners, orig motor (nearly no mods/none visible) auto, new seats, carpets, dash, brakes, body and suspension bushings, shocks, spring, and other little stuff. Bonus: Stainless Steel exhaust from the manifolds back, big cats, 3" tubing very nicely bent. The place is asking 6,000, despite agreeing that the body needs $2000 plus paint (?-1500). It will need a new nose and tail as they are both warped badly. AND a new drivers door panel, this one is cracked pretty bad. Otherwise all stock. As it stands I have yet to see the lights flip up under their own power.
:cool: :flag Brandon & Desiree

CharlieF

Body work is not cheap. Well...crappy body work is. A decent paint job will cost you atleast 3 grand. and remember...the best paint job in the world cannot hide crappy body work. As far as the lights....On my car, it has to run for about 15 seconds or so before enough vaccum builds up to open the head lights. I wonder...if the lights are down and the manual override **** is pulled down....will the lights operate? ( of course the car has to be running) My car is at the shop getting some work done or else I'd go try it. That could be your problem.

VegasJen

try running the car and pinching off the vacuum supply line, i'm not sure where it is on the '82 but you should find it fairly easy by looking near the firewall for a hose that goes into a diecast aluminum thingy (vacuum check valve) and two hoses come out of it. if you can find that line, pinch it as close to the manifold as you can to seal off any potential vacuum leaks. if the engine idle changes, you got vacuum leaks and that why the lights won't come up. 6k, hmmmm... seems like quite a challenging car for that price. :nonod:

terry82

it sounds like you have a vacuum leak ,my leaks were at the tank reserve and at the actuators,not hard or a lot of money.but deep cracks in the body, from what ?i would check frame real good.body work is going to cost a lot and take a lot of time.theres alot of nice c-3 out there for 6-12 thousand