Drache

I can't decide if it's worth the 600 bucks for the factory replacement seatbelts and shoulder belts, or whether I should go with the $40 functional but not original and probably non-matching aftermarket ones. The rest of the saddle vinyl interior at least appears original, unmodified, and complete, if just a bit worn. What has everyone else done? Are the cheap ones obviously aftermarket replacements?

R. Bruno

Why not consider having yours rebuilt by Snakeoyl. I have not used them (yet) but others here on the forum have had good experoiences

Shark Racer

I've heard nothing but good about Ssnake oyl, and I really wouldn't ever think of going anything but OEM or equivalent on the inside of my car. Nothing else would look quite right. Rhys used them for his belts, I believe. He may know more.
-Steve

ZD75blue

Racing harnesses... just need the harness bar... Vettedan is working on selling them... i'm waiting too :yesnod:

MacA1979

Jim,
Are your seatbelts missing? Or do they just not work (retract)? My shoulder belt retractors were not functioning properly, so yesterday I took the driver's side one out and cleaned it and lubed (little WD40) and it is working great now. I will be working on the pass.side one this weekend.

john73bb

I got the rear seat belts from a 89 or 90 Geo Storm and put them in my 73. I had to do a little fabricating, but the result is very nice. No more 2 piece assembly. I dyed the belts black (they were grey). It isn't too hard of a job if you have a welder.

Garys '68

While we're on the seatbelt subject, let me have your opinion on this. I've got a 68 convertible with lap belts only. I would like to have a shoulder belt, and it apparently was available on 68s. I'm not even sure if mine had them but they were removed. The problem is that they were a 2 piece design, one snap in for the lap belt and another snap in for the shoulder belt. It looks odd and I hate it.
Anyway, most of the car is original, but I would like to add a retractable shoulder belt. Any reccomendations on where to get a good looking aftermarket retractable belt that doesn't look too bad. I also dont want to spend $600 on them.
Gary

ylose

]
WHoohooo.....now we're talking...

I'll take one from him too, if it helps to have more people buying to
help motivate him...that would be a nice feature in mine !! :crazy:

Warp70

I would be interested as well. What type of cost are we talking about????

Drache

All the parts are there, but the webbing is worn, stained, and frayed. There is some rust living in the retractors. The plastic seat sheaths for the shoulder belts are looking pretty lame. They don't retract always without help. Just all generally crappy looking and prone to failure. I am definitely leaning towards keeping it factory original; I guess I was asking is there any issue that would sway me in the other direction and save me the $.

A racing harness isn't an option for me on this car... maybe on the SS! :yesnod: :chevy

Where can I find info on the Snakeoyl refurbishment? That sounds like a good option.

john73bb

http://www.ssnake-oyl.com/

Drache

Thanks! :)

Do you know they offer a significant savings over the new GM replacements? I'm not looking for date-coded perfection, just something that looks right... and with as little effort as possible :D

Pogo72

Garys'68
I picked this up from another thread: Rear seatbelts from a 93-95 Camaro will work in the Vette.

Al

Smokehouse69

Gary,
I have a 69 that was without shoulder harnesses too. Under the carpet in the back, on the inside of the wheel well are two plastic screw in plugs. Mine were gray/silver plastic. The are nearly flush to the wheelwell and hard to see. Right in front of these plugs is a metal stud about 3/8" long sticking out. This is where shoulder harnesses were supposed to be attached.
I took a piece 1/8" thick steel and drilled 3 holes in it. I'll post a crude drawing to show you the general idea. But basically two holes on one side a 1/2" and a 1/4" hole to line up with the plug hole and the stud hole, and another hole on top to provide a new seatbelt anchor.
I then bent the metal so that the top hole was facing up. I bolted this into the hole that the plug had been in. I stuck a 1/2" bolt up through the top hole before I bolted the one on the side down. Then I pulled carpet back over the bent plate and the bolt sticking up.
I then got REAR SEATBELT-SHOULDER HARNESSES from a 1998 Camaro, the retractor bolted to the bolt sticking up through the carpet. I replaced the buckle latch portion of the old belts with buckles from an S-10 pickup (The Camaro buckle and strap were too short.)
Then I bolted the other end of the Camaro belt under the front seat where the original lap belt went. Now I have one end bolted under the seat and the other is attached to the retractor. The latch prong slides up and down on the belt in between these points. The S-10 buckles slipped right inside the old belt sleeves. Now I can set in the car, reach around and grab the strap, pull it across me and buckle it up.
It cost me about $45.00 for the Camaro straps and the S-10 buckles at a local wrecking yard. It took me an afternoon to do the install, that was pulling the seats, fabrication and reinstalling everything.
The only problem is the belts are a tad short, and if you are thick they might be a little restrictive to movement.
Here is a crude drawing of what I'm talking about.

luvmy73

I bought a pair of re-furbished ones from Corvette Central. They are origional GM ones but without the GM white tag on them, (there is a white tag like the origionals but it just doesn't say GM). I think they look great, and they only run me about 250 bucks a year or so ago...check em out I defintely recommend them.

78Vette-SA

Sent mine to Snake Oyl and they replaced the webbing, sewed the old labels with date codes on, and cleaned up the retractors. Total was $122 with shipping and they are like new.

1970 Dave

Dearest BUBBA somehow lost the belts in my 70 and replaced them with some off black ones from the junk yard--they were too long so he just kept tying knots in them till they fit--gotta love that "BUBBA". I called snake-oyl (800-284-7777) talked to a nice lady names Sharon, She quoted me $600 bucks for original and $380 for repo's. She sent me a sample of the light saddle and it matches perfecto. I asked the difference between repos and original and was told the only diff was the end on the male side. Repo's have a round end and originals have a square end. The only folks that would ever notice would be NCRS people. I think I am going to go with the repo's.

SEMPER FI--1970 Dave