Now it's on to sanding and polishing. Let's go over the details once more.
01-20-2002, 02:59 PM
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Now it's on to sanding and polishing. Let's go over the details once more.
OK, we all know I have my paint on now. I finished it up about 2:00 yesterday (Saturday) afternoon. Now I have to sand with 1500 and polish. Here is what I think I know. :)
First thing is to let it dry for at least 24 hours. Then I get some water and throw a few pieces of 1500 in it until it curls up. Then I wrap it around a paint stick and sand away. Then it's on to the 2 different 3M perfect it compounds, then some finishing glaze. What I want to know is what will I see once I get started? Will my clear coat get dull from sanding, then the polish brings the shine back? Once I do start polishing, what should I watch for? How hard is this to do, and how easy is it to screw something up?
First thing is to let it dry for at least 24 hours. Then I get some water and throw a few pieces of 1500 in it until it curls up. Then I wrap it around a paint stick and sand away. Then it's on to the 2 different 3M perfect it compounds, then some finishing glaze. What I want to know is what will I see once I get started? Will my clear coat get dull from sanding, then the polish brings the shine back? Once I do start polishing, what should I watch for? How hard is this to do, and how easy is it to screw something up?
01-20-2002, 03:03 PM
#2
Safety Car
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Re: Now it's on to sanding and polishing. Let's go over the details once more. (Dalannex)
Here is Lars' response earlier, so that he doesn't have to type it all again.
Your next step involves the "color sanding" and polishing. For this, you will need an electric polisher, also commonly called an "angle grinder." You paint supply store can set you up with the correct backing pad for the grinder. IN addition, you'll need the following:
1500 grit wet sandpaper 3M part # 051131-02023
White Foam Pad 3M part # 051131-05723
Black Foam Pad 3M part # 051131-05725
Perfect-It II Rubbing Compound 3M part # 051131-05973
Perfect-It III Machine Glaze 3M part # 051131-05937
Cut a plain ol' paint mixing stick to the width of the 1500 grit paper. Wrap the paper around it after soaking it in a bucket of warm water with a few drops of dish soap added to it.. Soak the paper until it curls up. You will then sand the entire car with the 1500 wrapped around the paint stick. This will know down all your "orange peel," dust nubbers, and other imperfections. You can put some effort into it, as it's difficult to sand through the clear. When the car dries, you can see the areas that need more sanding. Keep sanding until the whole car is perfectly smooth with a dull satin sheen.
You will then rub it out with the whote foam pad on your polished using the white rubbing compound. Rub until all the sanding marks are gone and all the "haze" is clear. You then switch over to the black foam pad with the black finishing compound and do the whole car again. It will then look like a piece of glass.
If you're letting the paint air dry, let it set up for at least a couple of days before doing this. We just went through this process in our tech session here in Denver - the black car you see in the photos was sanded down with 1500, and received the 2-step polishing procedure - you can see the results.
1500 grit wet sandpaper 3M part # 051131-02023
White Foam Pad 3M part # 051131-05723
Black Foam Pad 3M part # 051131-05725
Perfect-It II Rubbing Compound 3M part # 051131-05973
Perfect-It III Machine Glaze 3M part # 051131-05937
Cut a plain ol' paint mixing stick to the width of the 1500 grit paper. Wrap the paper around it after soaking it in a bucket of warm water with a few drops of dish soap added to it.. Soak the paper until it curls up. You will then sand the entire car with the 1500 wrapped around the paint stick. This will know down all your "orange peel," dust nubbers, and other imperfections. You can put some effort into it, as it's difficult to sand through the clear. When the car dries, you can see the areas that need more sanding. Keep sanding until the whole car is perfectly smooth with a dull satin sheen.
You will then rub it out with the whote foam pad on your polished using the white rubbing compound. Rub until all the sanding marks are gone and all the "haze" is clear. You then switch over to the black foam pad with the black finishing compound and do the whole car again. It will then look like a piece of glass.
If you're letting the paint air dry, let it set up for at least a couple of days before doing this. We just went through this process in our tech session here in Denver - the black car you see in the photos was sanded down with 1500, and received the 2-step polishing procedure - you can see the results.
01-20-2002, 03:35 PM
#3
Melting Slicks
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Re: Now it's on to sanding and polishing. Let's go over the details once more. (Dalannex)
Yes - your clear will get dull from the sanding. That's how you will know if you have sanded far enough. The low spots will be shiny - much easier to see when dry.
Polishing according to Lars's method will bring back the shine and the surface will be much flatter.
When you are using the buffer, try to view the paint surface so that you can see the surface and the sand scratches. Then you can see what you are doing. Before you go to glaze, you shouldn't be able to see any scratches left on the surface. Keep the pad moving so you don't get it too hot in one spot.
Watch your edges cause they will cut much faster than the flats. Be carefull around anything that the pad can grab onto like antennas and trim.
It's not a hard job. Just take your time and you will be fine.
I've never used the paint stick trick. Sounds like it would be hard to hold on to. Lars, is that to make the surface flatter?
Polishing according to Lars's method will bring back the shine and the surface will be much flatter.
When you are using the buffer, try to view the paint surface so that you can see the surface and the sand scratches. Then you can see what you are doing. Before you go to glaze, you shouldn't be able to see any scratches left on the surface. Keep the pad moving so you don't get it too hot in one spot.
Watch your edges cause they will cut much faster than the flats. Be carefull around anything that the pad can grab onto like antennas and trim.
It's not a hard job. Just take your time and you will be fine.
I've never used the paint stick trick. Sounds like it would be hard to hold on to. Lars, is that to make the surface flatter?
01-20-2002, 03:50 PM
#4
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Re: Now it's on to sanding and polishing. Let's go over the details once more. (lbell101)
lbell is right on the mark - couldn't say it any better myself.
Yes, the purpose of using the paint stick as a "backing board" is to provide a firm, yet very slightly flexible, backing. This hard, firm backing will allow you to very effectively cut the high spots, dust nubbers, and orange peel off the clear, and it will produce and absolutely flat surface - like a mirror. Since the paint stick is narrow - much narrower than a regular rubber sanding block - you get much higher "loading" on the sandpaper, and it cuts quicker.
Remember to put a few drops of dish soap in your sanding water - it will help the paint stick glide across the paint surface without sticking and suctioning itself. It's not hard to hold onto, and you will sand your finger tips competely smooth and soft...
Yes, the purpose of using the paint stick as a "backing board" is to provide a firm, yet very slightly flexible, backing. This hard, firm backing will allow you to very effectively cut the high spots, dust nubbers, and orange peel off the clear, and it will produce and absolutely flat surface - like a mirror. Since the paint stick is narrow - much narrower than a regular rubber sanding block - you get much higher "loading" on the sandpaper, and it cuts quicker.
Remember to put a few drops of dish soap in your sanding water - it will help the paint stick glide across the paint surface without sticking and suctioning itself. It's not hard to hold onto, and you will sand your finger tips competely smooth and soft...
01-20-2002, 04:30 PM
#5
Safety Car
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Re: Now it's on to sanding and polishing. Let's go over the details once more. (lars)
I have heard before that when wet sanding you have to be careful what water to use, because if it has too high of a mineral content it will stain the clear. Any truth to this? My water is run through a Rainsoft water softener, so it should be pretty good water. Is this going to be a problem?
01-20-2002, 08:29 PM
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Re: Now it's on to sanding and polishing. Let's go over the details once more. (Dalannex)
Justin -
Never heard that one.... catalyzed urethane clear is pretty much immune to just about anything. Also, by adding a couple of drops of dish soap to the water, the soap will hold contaminants in suspension as you sand, so I wouldn't worry about it.
Never heard that one.... catalyzed urethane clear is pretty much immune to just about anything. Also, by adding a couple of drops of dish soap to the water, the soap will hold contaminants in suspension as you sand, so I wouldn't worry about it.
01-20-2002, 09:53 PM
#7
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Re: Now it's on to sanding and polishing. Let's go over the details once more. (lars)
OK, we'll chalk that one up as a rumor then. :D
Here is another question for you. I did a little sanding tonight to get a feel for it. It sands OK, appears to be hard to hurt the clearcoat much, because the stuff is tough as nails. After I did a little section I stood back and looked at it and it looks a little cr@ppy. If I wet it down then stand back and look it looks pretty darn good. After the polishing is it going to look like it does when it's wet? Is this a good way to tell as I continue sanding how my sanding job will look when it's done? If it will look like it does when it's wet I'm gonna have the best looking vette in the U.S.A! :D :D
Here is another question for you. I did a little sanding tonight to get a feel for it. It sands OK, appears to be hard to hurt the clearcoat much, because the stuff is tough as nails. After I did a little section I stood back and looked at it and it looks a little cr@ppy. If I wet it down then stand back and look it looks pretty darn good. After the polishing is it going to look like it does when it's wet? Is this a good way to tell as I continue sanding how my sanding job will look when it's done? If it will look like it does when it's wet I'm gonna have the best looking vette in the U.S.A! :D :D
01-20-2002, 10:15 PM
#8
Melting Slicks
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Re: Now it's on to sanding and polishing. Let's go over the details once more. (Dalannex)
Yes, after wet sanding the car it will look bad but keep the faith. Make sure you sand out all the low spots that tend to have a shine to them. When the surface is completely dull from the sanding, you know that you've gotten rid of all the orange peel. When you start the polishing, the shine will amaze you!! You will then realize that all your hard work has paid off in a big way. :) :) :)
Please post pics when you're done.
Please post pics when you're done.
01-20-2002, 10:40 PM
#9
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Re: Now it's on to sanding and polishing. Let's go over the details once more. (Dalannex)
Check out the final results of the color sanding tech session with Lars. When sanded, this car looked like a dull disaster. When finished....well, the pics speak the results.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=222115
***********
Jeff
Member: LarsGarageBums
'66. Modified L72
"The Silver Beast" :seeya :cheers:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=222115
***********
Jeff
Member: LarsGarageBums
'66. Modified L72
"The Silver Beast" :seeya :cheers: