robert kirk

does anyone have a phone number or web address for these folks. thanks robert

norvalwilhelm

Robert Just saw your post. My hydraboost power assist came from the wrecking yard. New these units are around $800. Rebuilt $400 and at the wreckers $50. Why so cheap? They never cause problems. My last unit was from a 94 one ton truck. It was in perfect shape, no rust, dry and complete. I bought the 1st unit from a 85 1/2 ton van. They all fit. The heavier truck has a bigger internal piston. The unit bolts right in, just hook up the lines from the power steering pump to the unit then to the power steering. It is a very powerful compact unit.

Good luck and e mail me direct if you have a problem

Smokehouse69

Norval,
Does it require a new master cylinder?

GWHITE75

NORVAL,

I like the prices you get things for at your junk yards. I visit them here in Houston, as needed, but the prices are higher, still a fair cost, but ... In an older thread, I believe you mentioned you don't use the proportioning valve, or have altered it to where you have two totally separate circuits. I am thinking of separating mine at the same time I do the booster elimination. Any pitfalls?

norvalwilhelm

The unit comes with it's own master cylinder but I wanted to keep the stock one so I had to fill in the hole in the end of the stock master cylinder piston. The original power unit comes with a master cylinder that has almost no hole in the end for the rod. My stock manual unit had a very deep hole so the rod would be too short. Since lengthening the rod was out filling in the hole is the only opion or check out a stock power master cylinder it might have a very shallow hole for the rod or use the complete system from the wreckers.

ram82fire

Norval ,,,, many thanx for the tip ,,, I just ordered a booster ,,,, found one 3500 miles away for 60$ plus shipping . I needed some extra room for my carb setup .

Geo

norvalwilhelm

I dumped my proportioning valve years ago. I don't drive in the rain and usually have big sticky tires on the back. I also made this mod to my mustang and it really helped both vehicles. If you hook up the mastercylinder directly to the back, no valve and leave the front unhooked and try the brakes the pedal does not go to the floor and the back brakes require little effort to bleed. I then hook the front to a line lock then to each wheel. Since the master cylinder resovoir is totally divided and no connection with a proportioning valve if you loose one end the other end is still functioning totally normal. I have lost one end in another vehicle and try to get it stopped. The pedal goes almost to the floor because of the proportoining valve. Not without it. Pedal seems almost normal.
My local wrecking yard claims they have no market for these boosts so they sell them cheaply. $50 CDN complete.

Flareside

Geo, where'd you find it? I couldn't find one for under $150 last week :(

-Joe

ram82fire

Hi Joe ,,, I just put a request on http://www.junkyarddog.com and got a number of prices ,,, give it a shot . E/mail me if you need more info !

gje5467@earthlink.net

norvalwilhelm

Remember the units can be run upside down so all the lines are on the underside and the brass booster is closest to the fender. The units are not effected up being turned upside down.

blue72

What's the downside here? What happens when/if you lose hydraulic pressure? Why do they still use vacuum assisted brake boosters? I realize it's probably cost, but I'm just checking...
-Jason

GWHITE75

Thanks for the info. Norval!! I priced one at a yard here in Houston and they had a 98 out of a one ton for $150.00. I will seek other yards outside of town. My brakes have improved a lot, since I "O-ringed" them, but still a tiny bit too soft for me.

norvalwilhelm

Blue72, I don't know the down side. The units are ultra compact and very powerful. If they are used on diesel trucks and stop them why can't they stop our cars? The units are very expensive new, about $800 but very reasonable in the wrecking yards, I can find all sorts at $50. If the hydraulics go you are directly back to normal manual brakes. The rod passes in a straight line without resistance straight to the master cylinder. The brass canister gives you one final power assist stop then you are back to manual and unlike vacuum assist the pedal doesn't get that hard. Rebuilt units are around $300CDN. I think they are superior to vacuum assist. Anyone having clearance issues with valve covers should go this route. A one ton dually can approach 10,000 lbs and it still stops with this setup.
The right side up is with the hoses on the top, upside down puts the hoses underneath and the brass cylinder towards the fender. The unit is NOT affected running upside down.
I would be glad to answer any questions regarding this swap. E mail me at home or here.