Dart products block???
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Dart products block???
Anyone out there have hands-on experience with the Dart block. I have a C-4 vette that I'm planning on building a 427 or 434 block and was deciding on either a Bill Mitchell Mowtown II 427 prepped short block, or build my own 427 or 434 from a Dart block. I have heard that the Dart block is a better product and if so, was wondering how much pain it is to modify the tall deck to get it into a C-4 vette. I know this is the C-3 section, but I have to admit that when it comes to hands-on roll-your-sleeves-up experience, you guys have it.
Anyone with the knowledge on this topic, please enlighten me...
Bruce aka, the "BlackRocket"!!!!
Anyone with the knowledge on this topic, please enlighten me...
Bruce aka, the "BlackRocket"!!!!
#2
Le Mans Master
Re: Dart products block??? (BlackRocket)
This is probably a better post for the engine mods section. Monty has experience with the Dart block, which he's now adding twin turbos to for ~1300 hp on pump gas.
I believe that the Dart block allows for more stroke (4" vs. 3.875") without having to clearance the block. :)
I believe that the Dart block allows for more stroke (4" vs. 3.875") without having to clearance the block. :)
#3
Team Owner
Re: Dart products block??? (BlackRocket)
You can't really compare the c-3 and c-4. C-3's can handle big blocks even 502's. I have near zero clearance with big heads and tall valve covers on the SBC stroker motor. I barely clear the heater/AC air box and the power brake booster on the other.
The tall Dart small block is less than 1/2 inch taller deck. Which because of the V angle might only raise the intake 1/4 inch. My next motor with be a dart 420+ ci and I'm going belt driven power assist on the brakes.
If your really worried about how much you might have to change. Just put a pan and heads on the bare block and do some trial fittings. I had my complete motor in and out 3 times to figure out clearancing.
The tall Dart small block is less than 1/2 inch taller deck. Which because of the V angle might only raise the intake 1/4 inch. My next motor with be a dart 420+ ci and I'm going belt driven power assist on the brakes.
If your really worried about how much you might have to change. Just put a pan and heads on the bare block and do some trial fittings. I had my complete motor in and out 3 times to figure out clearancing.
#4
Le Mans Master
Re: Dart products block??? (BlackRocket)
I built my SBC427 using a tall-deck Dart Iron Eagle block. Dart actually makes the "Rocket" block for GM - they cast and machine it. The Iron Eagle is identical to the Rocket block except that the Iron Eagle is capable of being either a wet or dry sump, depending on how you plug it, whereas the rocket is offered under two different part numbers depending on if you want a wet or dry sump.
I used part number 31122222, which is a tall 9.325" deck block, with splayed steel mains, 400 main size, and Big Block cam bearings. All of the blocks feature a .391" raised cam, and .800" spread pan rails, .400" each side.
Contrary to what World Products/Bill Mitchell Hardcore implies in their advertisements, the use of a raised cam and spread pan rails does not require expensive race only hardware. Summit offers a pretty decent Moroso oil pan for this block in their catalog for $250, and Stef's can make you a custom sheetmetal aluminum pan for it for around $300. These are both good pans too, with kicked out saumps, teflon screens, trap doors, and include the pump and pickup I think. Felpro offers pan gaskets for it for about $25.00. As for the raised cam, Cloyes offers a Tru-Roller timing chain for it for about $95, and a stock timing cover and gasket fits it just fine.
Even the tall deck, if you chose does not add alot to the cost. Dart sells the necessary spacers for $40, or you can use one of their single plane intake manifolds that are designed for the tall deck blocks - and convert it to EFI if you chose. You don't have to go with a custom Hogan's sheetmetal intake manifold like I did if you don't want.
I have also helped two guys build SBC 427's based off of the HArdcore Motown SBC427 shortblocks. They are good blocks and the shortblocks are a rpetty good deal if you're satisfied with the quality of the components he uses. My only reservation is that there have been reports of the main webs cracking around the 1/2" main bolts/studs. There isn't alot of material left on the sides, they didn't widen the mains to accomodate the larger bolts/studs. I heard they were going to go back to 7/16" mains bolts/studs, so maybe they did if there is a Motown II block out now. This has only been a problem on very high output motors (like 800hp+), so it porbably isn't a concern if you're just gonna built a typical 600hp/7000rpm street or street/strip motor.
I don't know all the specific details of the Motown blocks, but the Dart block is what I'd recommend based on having used a couple of Dart blocks myself, and having helped build some Motown blocks - plus what I've seen in the NMCA/NSCA scene.
If you want all the specs on the Dart block, they are detailed on my webpage
http://www.montygwilliams.com . go to Engine, then Block.
[Modified by Monty, 1:09 PM 1/17/2002]
I used part number 31122222, which is a tall 9.325" deck block, with splayed steel mains, 400 main size, and Big Block cam bearings. All of the blocks feature a .391" raised cam, and .800" spread pan rails, .400" each side.
Contrary to what World Products/Bill Mitchell Hardcore implies in their advertisements, the use of a raised cam and spread pan rails does not require expensive race only hardware. Summit offers a pretty decent Moroso oil pan for this block in their catalog for $250, and Stef's can make you a custom sheetmetal aluminum pan for it for around $300. These are both good pans too, with kicked out saumps, teflon screens, trap doors, and include the pump and pickup I think. Felpro offers pan gaskets for it for about $25.00. As for the raised cam, Cloyes offers a Tru-Roller timing chain for it for about $95, and a stock timing cover and gasket fits it just fine.
Even the tall deck, if you chose does not add alot to the cost. Dart sells the necessary spacers for $40, or you can use one of their single plane intake manifolds that are designed for the tall deck blocks - and convert it to EFI if you chose. You don't have to go with a custom Hogan's sheetmetal intake manifold like I did if you don't want.
I have also helped two guys build SBC 427's based off of the HArdcore Motown SBC427 shortblocks. They are good blocks and the shortblocks are a rpetty good deal if you're satisfied with the quality of the components he uses. My only reservation is that there have been reports of the main webs cracking around the 1/2" main bolts/studs. There isn't alot of material left on the sides, they didn't widen the mains to accomodate the larger bolts/studs. I heard they were going to go back to 7/16" mains bolts/studs, so maybe they did if there is a Motown II block out now. This has only been a problem on very high output motors (like 800hp+), so it porbably isn't a concern if you're just gonna built a typical 600hp/7000rpm street or street/strip motor.
I don't know all the specific details of the Motown blocks, but the Dart block is what I'd recommend based on having used a couple of Dart blocks myself, and having helped build some Motown blocks - plus what I've seen in the NMCA/NSCA scene.
If you want all the specs on the Dart block, they are detailed on my webpage
http://www.montygwilliams.com . go to Engine, then Block.
[Modified by Monty, 1:09 PM 1/17/2002]