Stephanie's Bad 79

Hi all! As usual, I need your input - I am replacing my valve covers as they leak like crazy. Want to install the Edlebrock cast aluminum with the black slots on top. About $80 per pair, seems fair. My big questions is: are the ROL valve cover seals good? They are a rubber/cork composite, and the cork ones I have on now suck big time (and leak). I just read Corvette Fever's article on oil leaks (the bane of my existance) and they mentioned Earl's Performance Master Valve Seals. All I want is something that will last and NOT leak!
What have you tried and what do you like?
Your help is appreciated, and please, if you want, email me directly! Seems that for about $110 I can get everything I need, including new bolts. Thanks everybody! ;)


[Modified by Stephanie's Bad 79, 5:35 PM 1/11/2002]

woodworkr

I seem to remember reading somewhere that there is a set of valve cover gaskets from Chevy that are rubber and have a thin round piece of metal impregnated in them. I think that they are quite expensive but are supposed to do the trick. Anyone else ever heard of them? That may solve her problem.
JoeB

flood

Get some neopreme gaskets that are made by felpro. they are by far the best gaskets I have seen yet.

ZD75blue

felpro reusables... they are the best i have found... not using now tho... engines getting pulled ;)

Pedro'74

Stephanie,

Hot Rod magazine made a comparison of several types of gaskets in last November's issue. What I conclude from the article is that Earl's Pressure Master is the best if the head and valve cover surfaces are perfectly flat. They are also highly reusable, and by far the most expensive. Since I was reusing my ol' beat-up covers, I went with Fel-Pro #1604 (the type that has a steel core sandwiched between cork), which according to the article has "exceptional ability to conform to minor surface irregularities". No leaks so far.

-Pedro



[Modified by Pedro'74, 7:11 PM 1/11/2002]

Stephanie's Bad 79

You guys, as always, ROCK my world! Thanks for the tips - it sounds like a toss-up between the Earls and the Felpro - where do I get them? The valve covers would be prefectly flat since they're new, so I am happy to spend a bit more for the best seals.

79er

Another vote for the Fel-Pro #1604

Paul L

Stephanie,
It has been a long time. Welcome back! Hope that armrest is still holding up. I do not use gaskets, only RTV silicone. Gaskets were not used on the aluminum covers in 1979. I have never had leaks with the RTV.

ZD75blue

you can get felpro's at almost any auto parts chain

not sure about earls... never heard of them

Jughead

Glad to hear you're back Steph.

Last year I bought Moroso's blue gaskets with the metal core. Sealed very good and reusable um-teen times. When I switched to LT-1 valve covers, the Moroso's were too thick to seal with the cast aluminum covers and bolts. Actually the matching bolts were too short. I could got longer bolts, but switched back to cork gaskets for $7.99. I used black RTV to glue the gaskets to the covers.

Len

73 LS-4

You should be able to get the Earle's through Summit, I got their header gaskets through them.

:cheers:
Pat Kunz

spiru

Just last week I installed a new set of Chevy low profile valve covers with Felpro's cork gaskets, works well for me. :cheers:

82dukman

Felpro again. I use a dab of RTV aroung the corners to prevent leaking. Make sure when you change gaskets, you lightly sand the flange of the cover with 150-200 sandpaper. It makes for a tight seal=no leaks

Stephanie's Bad 79

Hello, everyone! Thanks for the warm welcome back. Paul, the guy at the speed shop also said the only time you use RTV is when you are NOT using gaskets, so that is interesting that the 79 didn't use gaskets - I am so paranoid about buying all this stuff and having it leak, that that is a courageous idea for me to consider! But it seems like a lot of people are using RTV when this guy said no, what you want is (and of course, I can't remember the name of it) glue in a can with a dabber. Then, much to my horror, no RTV to seal the covers to the block! Which is what I did the first time around - you know, more is better! It outta be a blast trying to pry off the old covers!
Your engine is EXACTLY what I'm going for - you have the same covers I'm looking at - are you happy with them?
Any chance you have a shot of the driver's side you can send - your engine bay is Perfectomundo!
Can you email me pictures of both sides? Thanks a ton! stephmoe@pacbell.net :cheers:

VegasJen

hi stephanie, i'm gary, i have had very good luck with the plain jane cork gaskets myself. the biggest problem i have found is poor application from a previous owner. 1) gaskets are torqued to locomotive engine specs, often people figure the tighter the better. especially for the old production stamped steel covers, they deform easily and then you have to "true" them as best you can to get them to reseal. they don't need much torque at all, a 1/4" ratchet is more than capable of supplying the appropriate amount of torque. i go by feel so i don't know for sure but i would say that about 15-20# is plenty, and that is not much! 2) neither the valve cover mating surface is clean, the head surface is clean or both. i always scrub the old RTV off with a steel brush then spray it down with brake cleaner so the RTV has a good surface to seal on the valve cover and there is no gunky stuff on the head surface. 3) either waaay too much RTV is used or not enough. i have seen too many people who subscribe to the philosophy of "the bigger the glob, the better the job". IMHO, the correct amount of (blue) RTV is a thin film (about as thick as your fingernail) and spread evenly all the way around the valve cover. note, you don't need to put any on the head. then put your gasket on the valve cover and line up your holes, turn it over and set it down, making sure not to disturb the gasket. you might want to put something a little weighty on it and let it set for about a half hour. if you have done all these steps, you can get junk yard valve covers to seal. i have done this on dozens of covers and had great success. they can even be removed 2 or 3 times before they don't seal anymore. simply because of the nature of cork, they will seal for 2-4 years before they begin to weep oil, then replace them all over again. that's $10 or so every couple of year, less than the cost of a tank of gas, not too bad in my opinion.