KJL

I had to disconnect the oil line from the gauge to remove the instrument cluster. Do I need to turn the engine over to get the air out of the line before re-connecting?

sray454

Great question ... when I replaced that oil line I did not, but now you've asked a great question - should you bleed the line ???

I don't know for sure, but I'm guessing not ...

KJL

There was air in the line before and it seemed to work fine but just thought I would ask. I hope it doesn't leak after it is all back together. I am installing new radio, fixing ducting leaks and replacing console AC/heat vacuum control rotory valve. Dr. Rebuild says they have been discontinued not many left at 40 bucks.

sray454

Good luck with all that ... I'm in the process of doing some of the same things, and I'm goona try using some very thin weather stripping foam I to seal the ducting ... I got it at the local hardware store ( cost about a 1.25 0 and looks perfect to replace the old tape that was used at the factory...

Ganey

All you have to do is try it both ways. Did years ago & it made no difference.

gearheadz

Not necessary or possible (to bleed). Disconnected & re-connected oil pressure lines a billion times over the years on various cars. How do you remove air from a line that's connected to a non-airtight source (engine) anyway? Even the oil pump pickup which is submerged in oil passes small air bubbles.

Mark

KJL

I did the same and also used aluminum tape around any joints I could. I also removed the fan motor and put W.S. at the interface between the fan motor mounting flange and the duct. Removed side grill, made job much easier.
Good luck!

Sleper

You do not need to bleed. Watch where you run the line because if it breaks you do not want hot oil on the drivers feet. Passanger OK but not driver. Good Luck :cheers: :cheers:

73 Teach's Pet

As a related suggestion, a safer upgrade to the factory nylon tubing is the switch to metal, typically copper, tubing. Nylon and other cheesy materials are not NHRA or IHRA drag racing compliant. For racing, the tubing must be metal. Our track usually gives guys 2-3 weeks to have this changed and comply with the safety rules before we will not pass their car through Tech.
Autometer sells the copper tubing conversion kit for like $8-10 which I got mine through Summit when I rebuilt the engine. It makes for "bad modeling" when the track personell are not compliant with the sactioning bodies safety rules.
Food for thought.
Be cool!
"TEACH"

randy72

Agree on the copper line. My brother's car caught fire last summer when his nylon line either broke or got cut. It looked kinda cool on fire at 100MPH though. Luckily he didn't get hurt and the damage was mostly to his paint, wiring and pride....He now has a copper line and a primered hood.

JYD69_427

The air bubbles will have no effect on the pressure reading.
I switched to copper awhile back for the same reasons others here mentioned. I added a couple of strain relief loops on both sides of the firewall and a grommet, natch.

Turbo-Jet

pressure is pressure, doesn't matter if fluid is air or oil