Almost That Time!
01-10-2002, 07:50 PM
#1
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Almost That Time!
Today I dropped my pistons, rings, rods, rod bearings, cam bearings, balancer and flywheel off at the machine shop. How long do you think this work will take? He is going to:
Magnaflux: Block, Heads, Crank
Hot Tank: Block, Heads, Crank
Check/Straighten The Crank
Bore The 454 +.060"
Press In New Cam Bearings
Clean & Resurface My Flywheel
Balance My Engine
Once I get the call, it's over to the machine shop to pick up the goodies. I'm guessing the work is going to take a few weeks. Once I get everything back, the block is going on the engine stand and it's time to start building :cool:. I've got everything I need (with the exception of a couple misc. items) to completely assemble my short block.
I have a couple questions though. I went with a high volume oil pump because I'm going with a bigger oil pan (6qrts in the pan ; 1qrt in the filter). I was reading a notice that came with my Melling Hi-Volume oil pump and it says:
What exactly does this mean :confused: ? I have not the slightest clue.
My other question is this. I purchase a Dynagear Performance Roller 3-Piece Timing Chain, will this chain work well with my setup. I remember during my cam installation you guys recommended going with a chain similar to this. The chain gives me the option to install with a 2 Degree Retard, Straight Up, 2 Degree Advance. I was thinking of installing it straight up...or would you guys recommend installing it with a 2 degree advance? I will be going with a Comp Cams 294 solid lifter cam and if I'm not mistaken doesn't Comp Cams grind their cams with a built in 4 degree advance? It would probably be wiser to install it straight up if this is the case, huh?
As always your input is greatly appreciated! :cheers:
Magnaflux: Block, Heads, Crank
Hot Tank: Block, Heads, Crank
Check/Straighten The Crank
Bore The 454 +.060"
Press In New Cam Bearings
Clean & Resurface My Flywheel
Balance My Engine
Once I get the call, it's over to the machine shop to pick up the goodies. I'm guessing the work is going to take a few weeks. Once I get everything back, the block is going on the engine stand and it's time to start building :cool:. I've got everything I need (with the exception of a couple misc. items) to completely assemble my short block.
I have a couple questions though. I went with a high volume oil pump because I'm going with a bigger oil pan (6qrts in the pan ; 1qrt in the filter). I was reading a notice that came with my Melling Hi-Volume oil pump and it says:
A NEW INTERMEDIATE SHAFT with a PINNED STEEL SLEEVE MUST be used with this Oil Pump Application. DO NOT use a substitute.
If the STEEL SLEEVE is not used the driveshaft of the Oil Pump can be damaged, resulting in failure of the pump. Failure to follow this warning VOIDS any warranty to this product.
If the STEEL SLEEVE is not used the driveshaft of the Oil Pump can be damaged, resulting in failure of the pump. Failure to follow this warning VOIDS any warranty to this product.
My other question is this. I purchase a Dynagear Performance Roller 3-Piece Timing Chain, will this chain work well with my setup. I remember during my cam installation you guys recommended going with a chain similar to this. The chain gives me the option to install with a 2 Degree Retard, Straight Up, 2 Degree Advance. I was thinking of installing it straight up...or would you guys recommend installing it with a 2 degree advance? I will be going with a Comp Cams 294 solid lifter cam and if I'm not mistaken doesn't Comp Cams grind their cams with a built in 4 degree advance? It would probably be wiser to install it straight up if this is the case, huh?
As always your input is greatly appreciated! :cheers:
01-10-2002, 09:13 PM
#2
Instructor
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Location: NJ
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Re: Almost That Time! (bence13_33)
i think that warning is just so you don't use the stock nylon sleeve.nothing really wrong with the nylon sleeves but on a high performance motor it's probably better to go with the heavy duty stuff. did they give you a stainless steel sleeve with your pump? i got one with my pump.
as for the timingchain, i never had a problem installing a cam straight up. if you do decide to degree it make sure you use a degreeing wheel.however, installing it straight up should be just fine. :)
good luck with your project. looks like it's coming together fast!
as for the timingchain, i never had a problem installing a cam straight up. if you do decide to degree it make sure you use a degreeing wheel.however, installing it straight up should be just fine. :)
good luck with your project. looks like it's coming together fast!
01-10-2002, 09:25 PM
#3
Re: Almost That Time! (bence13_33)
Give him the clutch assembly as well. I learned something new about balancing this week.
Despite the fact that my motor is "internally" balanced, there is still subsequent balancing to be done with the flywheel balancer and clutch assembly. You can get away without balancing those parts with the crank on a 427 but as long as I have come this far....
Despite the fact that my motor is "internally" balanced, there is still subsequent balancing to be done with the flywheel balancer and clutch assembly. You can get away without balancing those parts with the crank on a 427 but as long as I have come this far....
01-10-2002, 10:00 PM
#5
Instructor
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Re: Almost That Time! (bence13_33)
Bence,
I on small blocks and probably the big blocks too, the rod that connects the bottom of the distributor shaft to the oil pump is a rod which has a groove at the top, which the distributor slides into to connect the dist. to this rod. The other end of this rod, which connects to the top of the oil pump has a sleeve around the bottom this rod. The sleeve covers up the top of the oil pump shaft, like the bottom of the dist. covers up the top of this drive rod. The sleeve on factory OEM rods is nylon. Your being told to use an oil pump drive rod that has a metal sleeve. The sleeve ensures that the oil pump and this drive rod, which connects the spinning motion from the dist. to the oil pump, does not slide left or right unconnecting the oil pump from the drive rod. If the two parts became disconnected, then your dist would be turning your drive rod, but not turning the oil pump, hence no oil would be pumped throughout your engine. By using a metal sleeved drive rod the sleeve is made of a more durable material than a nylone sleeve. The "pin" ensures that this sleeve cannot fall off this drive rod (that connects the bottom of the dist. to the oil pump.) High performance small block drive rods with the pinned metal sleeve run around $8-10 from Bow Tie Performance and cannot cost that much more for a big block.
Auto shop class dismissed.
Be cool!
"TEACH"
I on small blocks and probably the big blocks too, the rod that connects the bottom of the distributor shaft to the oil pump is a rod which has a groove at the top, which the distributor slides into to connect the dist. to this rod. The other end of this rod, which connects to the top of the oil pump has a sleeve around the bottom this rod. The sleeve covers up the top of the oil pump shaft, like the bottom of the dist. covers up the top of this drive rod. The sleeve on factory OEM rods is nylon. Your being told to use an oil pump drive rod that has a metal sleeve. The sleeve ensures that the oil pump and this drive rod, which connects the spinning motion from the dist. to the oil pump, does not slide left or right unconnecting the oil pump from the drive rod. If the two parts became disconnected, then your dist would be turning your drive rod, but not turning the oil pump, hence no oil would be pumped throughout your engine. By using a metal sleeved drive rod the sleeve is made of a more durable material than a nylone sleeve. The "pin" ensures that this sleeve cannot fall off this drive rod (that connects the bottom of the dist. to the oil pump.) High performance small block drive rods with the pinned metal sleeve run around $8-10 from Bow Tie Performance and cannot cost that much more for a big block.
Auto shop class dismissed.
Be cool!
"TEACH"
01-10-2002, 10:16 PM
#6
Drifting
Member Since: Sep 2000
Location: Germantown Maryland
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Re: Almost That Time! (bence13_33)
Bence,
My machine shop took almost 3 months. Hopefully yours is faster.
My 383 buildup had a Mellings high vol pump also. Shop added a Moroso oil shaft part # 22070. I assume yours would be similar type (maybe not same part # though).
:flag
[Modified by Clink69, 8:19 PM 1/10/2002]
My machine shop took almost 3 months. Hopefully yours is faster.
My 383 buildup had a Mellings high vol pump also. Shop added a Moroso oil shaft part # 22070. I assume yours would be similar type (maybe not same part # though).
:flag
[Modified by Clink69, 8:19 PM 1/10/2002]
01-11-2002, 12:23 AM
#8
Drifting
Re: Almost That Time! (bence13_33)
bence,
Don't be in a hurry to get it back. AND, don't believe them when they say a few weeks. It will be at least double that. AND, don't call them to find out what is going on. You will be disappointed. :mad
This has been my experience with machine shops, so I will take that approach when I have the machine shop start working on my 454 shortblock!!! :lol: :lol:
You don't want to Pi$$ them off because it's your motor and you want it right but you want it done in a reasonable amount of time as well...
I don't want to get you depressed, just make you aware of the delays ahead of time!! I would serioiusly ask they how long it will take and have them put it in WRITING!!!! :eek:
I can't wait to see you get it back and installed. When are you going to take your 350 out to prep things before the 454 is done???
Bob :cheers:
Don't be in a hurry to get it back. AND, don't believe them when they say a few weeks. It will be at least double that. AND, don't call them to find out what is going on. You will be disappointed. :mad
This has been my experience with machine shops, so I will take that approach when I have the machine shop start working on my 454 shortblock!!! :lol: :lol:
You don't want to Pi$$ them off because it's your motor and you want it right but you want it done in a reasonable amount of time as well...
I don't want to get you depressed, just make you aware of the delays ahead of time!! I would serioiusly ask they how long it will take and have them put it in WRITING!!!! :eek:
I can't wait to see you get it back and installed. When are you going to take your 350 out to prep things before the 454 is done???
Bob :cheers:
01-12-2002, 03:40 PM
#9
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Re: Almost That Time! (Bob Turner)
Bob:
I'm probably not going to pull the 350 until I have the 454 completely assembled and ready to bolt in. I still have some other things in mind that I may like to do. I think I might try to get a braking system much like Norval's, that way I can run taller valve covers and roller rockers.
I guess I'll see how things go and confront each situation as it arises.
Thanks :cheers:
I'm probably not going to pull the 350 until I have the 454 completely assembled and ready to bolt in. I still have some other things in mind that I may like to do. I think I might try to get a braking system much like Norval's, that way I can run taller valve covers and roller rockers.
I guess I'll see how things go and confront each situation as it arises.
Thanks :cheers:
01-12-2002, 04:48 PM
#10
Safety Car
Re: Almost That Time! (bence13_33)
I guess I'll see how things go and confront each situation as it arises.
Thanks :cheers:
Bence, these things sure can snowball, can't they? I went into the garage today to remove the alternator to check out my planned power steering pump install, and the next thing I knew I had the alternator on the bench along with my entire front suspension and brakes!
-Joe
01-13-2002, 08:38 AM
#11
Re: Almost That Time! (Flareside)
JOE, these things sure can snowball, can't they? ;) Removing is one of the worts parts to remove if you're trying to avoid the snowballing phenomenom :nono: "I went into the garage today to remove the alternator to check out my planned power steering pump install, and the next thing I knew I had the alternator on the bench along with my entire front suspension and brakes!"
:cheers: :D
:cheers: :D