69 N.O.X. RATT

I thought I did evrything I needed to do to make my rear end live under a nitrous fed big block, under street conditions (street tires). When I was checking out another post I read about high performance spindles. I took the entire rear end out of my car and replaced the following. Yet have no idea what spindles are.

Forged stub axels
Solid U joints
Toms rubber bushing eliminator kit
Toms Frame stifferners
360 lb fiberglass spring
Poly bushings everywhere
Bilstien shocks
3/4 in. sway bar :chevy

Will this rear end live with some slicks under it, no NOS until 2nd gear. The motor makes about 580 HP (dyno to come) and I would run a 100 to 150 shot in 2nd.

bence13_33

It will live...but for how long is the question. I've heard that the average life expectancy for a rear end in a car that is running slicks is 1-3 years tops. Are you going to be running a stock Corvette rear end?

Since you have solid u-joints and forged halfshafts, something else is going to have to give. I thought spindles were the studs that are pressed into your rotors and what your lug nuts are screwed on to. I could be wrong though...maybe someone else could enlighten us :). If you were really looking for strength...Tom's make a Corvette 12 bolt rear end that will easily hold your power, they are kind of expensive though ($2500+).

Gordonm

The spindles are the outer drive axles. It is what the rim bolts to. You are going in the right direction by upgrading components but anything can break at any time.

Flareside

bence, the wheel studs are pressed into the spindles, not the rotor. The rotor then slides over the studs and covers the spindle so you can't see it without removing the rotor.

DeenHylton

You need to upgrade your posi-unit...you will eventually crack the case around the pin area. Tom's Differentials has what you need. I'm only running 500 HP with an automatic and cracked mine. If you read other posts on this board you'll see similar failures...your weakest link is now the posi. Deen

Flareside

Slicks and the stock rear is a problem. It seems like everyone snaps it eventually when they run slicks. I would not put them on my car with the stock rear end.




[Modified by Flareside, 8:51 AM 1/11/2002]

BeaterShark

Can someone clarify what they mean by "slicks"? I believe it is obvious that something like ET Drags are slicks. Are ya'll including BFG Drag Radials and ET Streets in the "slicks" category?

I'm wondering 'cause I plan to put some DRs behind my 450hp 383 with stock rear end (which I've replaced everything except the ring and pinion)

John Dirks

I'd like to know too if the BFG Drag Radial is considered a Slick?
I am considering buying a pair for my 383 with stock rear end and 3.55's.

Gordonm

I would not consider the BFG drag raial a slick. A true slick will give you a lot more traction than the drag radial. The drag radials are a step between street and slicks. Yes they will put more stress on the drive train but you are looking for more traction are you not.

69 N.O.X. RATT

I went by Toms today, one the nice thinkgs about living in southern California. They told me the weak link is the posi unit. I will keep street tires on the car until I can afford Toms 1380 kit. I am looking at over $2,000.00 to upgrade the rear end to drag race with the power the car is capable of. Has anyone noticed how expensive it is to go fast? :chevy

JerryM

A basic truism.....

Speed Costs Money, How fast do you want to go?

:yesnod: :yesnod: :yesnod: