Trunk Popper
10-17-2008, 03:21 PM
#1
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2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Trunk Popper
Had a PM recently about an old post I made. For those that missed it first time around:
Trunk Popper for a Vert or Z06
This is an easy mod but for those of you who prefer to buy the ready made item it sells for a very reasonable price of $15.95 from one of the Forum vendors. Unfortunately the vendor doesn’t ship overseas so I needed a DIY version:
http://www.c5trunkpopper.com/
If you want to try yourself, pick up a 7/8” compression spring from Home Depot. They retail at $3.98 for a pack of 4 springs, 2 large and 2 small. You’ll also need an end cap of the same diameter. I used a 7/8” rubber stopper ($1.76). The advantage is that it acts as a soft buffer and can be trimmed to fit.
Cut the large spring to a length of 2”. The springs are quite strong so it takes a bit of elbow grease to cut it. Tighten the radius at the cut end of the spring to give a hole to fasten the screw through.
Undo the T30 torx screw on the right hand side of the closure plate. Insert the torx screw down the barrel of the spring and retighten it in place.
Slot the bung in place. You can trim the bung to get whatever fit you prefer. With it as shown it takes a good push to close the trunk. Trimming the bung will make it easier to close..
It took 10 minutes and all the lubrication and fiddling with the lock are a thing of the past.
Trunk Popper for a Vert or Z06
This is an easy mod but for those of you who prefer to buy the ready made item it sells for a very reasonable price of $15.95 from one of the Forum vendors. Unfortunately the vendor doesn’t ship overseas so I needed a DIY version:
http://www.c5trunkpopper.com/
If you want to try yourself, pick up a 7/8” compression spring from Home Depot. They retail at $3.98 for a pack of 4 springs, 2 large and 2 small. You’ll also need an end cap of the same diameter. I used a 7/8” rubber stopper ($1.76). The advantage is that it acts as a soft buffer and can be trimmed to fit.
Cut the large spring to a length of 2”. The springs are quite strong so it takes a bit of elbow grease to cut it. Tighten the radius at the cut end of the spring to give a hole to fasten the screw through.
Undo the T30 torx screw on the right hand side of the closure plate. Insert the torx screw down the barrel of the spring and retighten it in place.
Slot the bung in place. You can trim the bung to get whatever fit you prefer. With it as shown it takes a good push to close the trunk. Trimming the bung will make it easier to close..
It took 10 minutes and all the lubrication and fiddling with the lock are a thing of the past.
10-17-2008, 03:35 PM
#2
Burning Brakes
Thanks for the link and info!
The previous owner had taken the car in when it was still under warranty for the problem you have described.
I saw the GM work order that said "Customer states trunk only opens when it's hot outside."
He showed me the little piece rubber they "installed" on the center edge of the trunk towards the front of the car.
It does not do anything. I still have to slowly wedge my fingers between a crack to open the trunk up.
The driver’s side opening of the trunk lid is also raised a bit higher, so it can appear that the trunk is not properly closed. I adjusted the plastic whatchamacallits, but I cannot get it to sit flush.
Anywho, thanks again for the info!
The previous owner had taken the car in when it was still under warranty for the problem you have described.
I saw the GM work order that said "Customer states trunk only opens when it's hot outside."
He showed me the little piece rubber they "installed" on the center edge of the trunk towards the front of the car.
It does not do anything. I still have to slowly wedge my fingers between a crack to open the trunk up.
The driver’s side opening of the trunk lid is also raised a bit higher, so it can appear that the trunk is not properly closed. I adjusted the plastic whatchamacallits, but I cannot get it to sit flush.
Anywho, thanks again for the info!
10-17-2008, 06:19 PM
#6
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St. Jude Donor '07-'08,-'13-'14, '16-'17
Had a PM recently about an old post I made. For those that missed it first time around:
Trunk Popper for a Vert or Z06
This is an easy mod but for those of you who prefer to buy the ready made item it sells for a very reasonable price of $15.95 from one of the Forum vendors. Unfortunately the vendor doesn’t ship overseas so I needed a DIY version:
http://www.c5trunkpopper.com/
If you want to try yourself, pick up a 7/8” compression spring from Home Depot. They retail at $3.98 for a pack of 4 springs, 2 large and 2 small. You’ll also need an end cap of the same diameter. I used a 7/8” rubber stopper ($1.76). The advantage is that it acts as a soft buffer and can be trimmed to fit.
Cut the large spring to a length of 2”. The springs are quite strong so it takes a bit of elbow grease to cut it. Tighten the radius at the cut end of the spring to give a hole to fasten the screw through.
Undo the T30 torx screw on the right hand side of the closure plate. Insert the torx screw down the barrel of the spring and retighten it in place.
Slot the bung in place. You can trim the bung to get whatever fit you prefer. With it as shown it takes a good push to close the trunk. Trimming the bung will make it easier to close..
It took 10 minutes and all the lubrication and fiddling with the lock are a thing of the past.
Trunk Popper for a Vert or Z06
This is an easy mod but for those of you who prefer to buy the ready made item it sells for a very reasonable price of $15.95 from one of the Forum vendors. Unfortunately the vendor doesn’t ship overseas so I needed a DIY version:
http://www.c5trunkpopper.com/
If you want to try yourself, pick up a 7/8” compression spring from Home Depot. They retail at $3.98 for a pack of 4 springs, 2 large and 2 small. You’ll also need an end cap of the same diameter. I used a 7/8” rubber stopper ($1.76). The advantage is that it acts as a soft buffer and can be trimmed to fit.
Cut the large spring to a length of 2”. The springs are quite strong so it takes a bit of elbow grease to cut it. Tighten the radius at the cut end of the spring to give a hole to fasten the screw through.
Undo the T30 torx screw on the right hand side of the closure plate. Insert the torx screw down the barrel of the spring and retighten it in place.
Slot the bung in place. You can trim the bung to get whatever fit you prefer. With it as shown it takes a good push to close the trunk. Trimming the bung will make it easier to close..
It took 10 minutes and all the lubrication and fiddling with the lock are a thing of the past.
For a second there I though I was reading something else...
Peace
Chip
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10-19-2008, 12:52 AM
#9
Melting Slicks
10-19-2008, 01:23 AM
#10
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2023 C5 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
If you look at mine its slightly longer than the professional design. (4 turns vice 5 on mine).
You could cut the spring slightly shorter or shave the rubber stopper to adjust the fit. A bit of trial and error and you'll get one that does what you want. It's a compromise between how hard the trunk pops up and how hard you have to push to close the trunk lid.
With 4 springs in the pack its no big deal if you get it wrong first time. Throw it away and try again. Or if you get it right first time you can offer a gift to a Corvette Buddy
Last edited by DeeGee; 10-19-2008 at 01:26 AM.
10-28-2008, 10:48 PM
#12
Burning Brakes
I really don't get this "spring thing-a-majig"?
I couldn't get my fingers underneath either, but I also noticed that my struts were worn out, (PC is 11 years old now).
Got two new struts at AutoZone for 25 bucks (for both!) and the trunk lid opens and closes n-i-c-e now and..... pops up at least 1-1/2 to 2 inches every time.
Cannot perform a cold weather test though.... livin' in southwest Florida!
I couldn't get my fingers underneath either, but I also noticed that my struts were worn out, (PC is 11 years old now).
Got two new struts at AutoZone for 25 bucks (for both!) and the trunk lid opens and closes n-i-c-e now and..... pops up at least 1-1/2 to 2 inches every time.
Cannot perform a cold weather test though.... livin' in southwest Florida!
01-25-2010, 08:54 PM
#14
CF "Young" Senior Member
There was a post a while back about bending the little metal bar inside the trunk release assembly. Something about it getting pushed down and thus not holding the trunk lid up high enough. I gave that a try on my 'vert and it made a big difference. Apparently didn't bend it up enough though cause I'm back to square one. 
01-25-2010, 09:10 PM
#15
Intermediate
simple fix i did on my 99 vert. there is a tension wire spring located directly in the path of the trunk latch/striker. When the trunk is down and locked there is constant downward tension against the wire spring.
When you open the trunk the wire pushes up the trunk latch/striker popping it up. The wire must be bent where it will be directly under the U shaped latch on the trunk lid. if not it can move or slip to the front and miss the latch completely.
Take a needle nose or regular plier pull up and give the piece a slight bend to restore the original shape. After years the metal fatigues and loses the radius from the factory.
give it a shot. Mine is going on a year since i first posted the fix and its working fine.
good luck
When you open the trunk the wire pushes up the trunk latch/striker popping it up. The wire must be bent where it will be directly under the U shaped latch on the trunk lid. if not it can move or slip to the front and miss the latch completely.
Take a needle nose or regular plier pull up and give the piece a slight bend to restore the original shape. After years the metal fatigues and loses the radius from the factory.
give it a shot. Mine is going on a year since i first posted the fix and its working fine.
good luck
