GTR1999

I was looking through the overhaul manual and then a the 7/01 issue of CF reviewing rebuilding the rear end. The manual says to use a pinion depth tool to set the pinion the mag article shows the guy using a straight edge across the side bearing pads and a dial caliper to check the distance between the pinion face to the bottom of the straight edge. I have the Richmond Gear video and it says NOT to use the straight because the bores are honed after they are split and could vbe off center up to .050".
So how do you guys set the pinion depth and where did you get the tool? I see some on different web sites but don't know if they will work on a vette housing?
As always thanks for the support,
Gary

Gordonm

I just used the same shim that was there because I did not change the pinion or ring gear. Put on new bearings and checked the pattern to see if ti was correct on the teeth. This is really the only check to do. Most shops I know only go by the pattern. The pinion depth is just to get them close.

MIKER

The guy's at "Tom's Differentials" and the instructions that came with my Spicer/DANA gear set said NOT to use that tool. They said to use "gear marking compound".
If were to have access to the "tool" it would be neat to at least use it for comparison. I'm sure that you will be successful either way.

I have completed setup of the 3.73:1 gears in my DANA 44 3:37 PM 12/2/2001
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=193247

GTR1999

Interesting, you guys were told a third route to go then.
1- manual use a depth tool
2-Corvette Fever story, use straight edge to pinion
3 - use the exisiting and reshim as necessary
I was going to go with #3 on the 72 because I'm not changing the ring and pinion, but wondered how the shops install new gears. I don't like the idea of pressing the pinion bearing on and off a few time to get the shimming correct.

Did anyoneever talk to Randy's Ring & Pinion?

Thanks,
Gary

ddecart

Ok..how did you guys manage to torque the pinion nut and compress the bloody crush sleeve thing? OMFG was that the most difficult thing I've done on my car! Takes like 5 gazillion ft-lb of torque to get it tight!

Dave

lbell101

You don't have a 5 gazillion pound hammer?

mrvette

An old tyme mechanic I have known for years now , about 25 years ago made a neat tool, a one inch steel bar with a 3/8 steel box welded on the end, box inside dimensions are easily large enough for any automotive and most truck differential collars, and for wedging in front axel studs....held against concrete with car up in air, or wedged anywhere really, tightening anything to torque spec is a snap....

now having said that, I use a 1/2 impact, and a fair sense of feel...

GENE

69shark

Gary, you are a glutton for punishment :crazy:
I just sent mine out and got a one year warranty(too bad I didn't get to drive the thing for about 2 years). There are a couple of things I just don't want to touch and that's one :smash: :cheers:

GTR1999

Hi Tom,
Well I figured I needed something to do this winter so wwhy not start rebuilding the rear end and rear bearings :smash:
Are you going up to the Big E swap meet on the 19th or 20th? I hope to get up there maybe find som old tools again :D

Gary

DeenHylton

Start with the shim that came under your original pinion...my gear instructions that came from Richmond gears says that a basic starting point for GM rearends is a .035 shim (which is what mine was).
Now on the other hand, I too called Tom's Differentials and they suggested starting with a .027 shim.
Anyway you look at it you'll have to set up the ring and pinion each time (don't forget to set your backlash also) and check the pattern...maybe that's why the shops get $350 to $450 or more to set up a rearend...its very labor intensive. :eek:

69shark

Might be a welcome respit with my kitchen remodel going on, I should be just about done by then :D :cheers: