Dalannex

I purchased a tool to remove windshield trim from my trusty Snap-On man today, and it made the rear window trim removal a piece of cake. :cool: It makes it almost too easy. Now, the windshield has me confused. The top came off the same way, except that the clips that hold the trim on are not flexible due to the fact that they are covered in windshield glue. The two side trim pieces are what are confusing me now. Do they come off the same way. They look like they didn't fit tight against the glass and somebody used some of the windshield glue to fill the gap. So, there is a little rubbery seal between the glass and the trim. How do the windshield side trim pieces come off anyway?

82dukman

Dalannex, I have an 82 CE that I replaced the windshield on. If you are talking about the black pillar post trim pieces, they are held on by screws under the weatherstrip on each side. There are four screws per side. One is at the very top by the T-Top attachment point. They go down appx every 5 inches from that point on. Look in the channel where the window goes into and you should see "holes" wth screws in them.
Does this help?

je68

There are screws that go through the weather striping and hold the side trim. I am also reinstalling my trim after I had them polish and cant get the top trim any closer then 1/4in to the windshield. Do you rember how tight the top trim was because I don't.

82dukman

je68, I don't know if yours is like mine. My top piece was held down by the side pillar post pieces. I still have appx. 1/8 inch gap between the molding and glass. I just made sure it was sealed real well first.

je68

Yes mine is held by the side trim I just don't rember that much of a gap. I can't any other way to install it. That must be why there was so much black sealer.

82dukman

Don't seal the trik to the glas. When the glass flexes it might screw up the trim.

UKPaul

Hi (again),
Yes, the side trims are held on by screws. Pull the weatherstrip out of the channel (there's a screw at the top of the weatherstrip & maybe at the bottom - can't remember) and all will be revealed :)
If you're not worried about keeping it all totally standard, those trims polish up really well. There is a gap between my trim & glass of about 1/8".
:cheers:
Paul

Dalannex

My top trim is held on by clips that are similar to the ones on the rear window trim. My trim removal tool takes them loose. If the clips are in good order it appears the trim should be tight against the glass. I kind of thought that maybe those screws on the side were what held the trim on. I don't know for sure if I am going to repaint the trim or polish it. I am thinking of polishing it. I'll have to see. Anyway, I'll look it over some more tonight. Thanks for the help up to this point.

UKPaul

Hi Dalannex,
I've just made a momentous discovery! This morning I took a load more of my Vette for powder coating & was told that the rocker panels I'd dropped off before, weren't clearcoated but were anodised. Ah-ha, this explains why I've had to hand sand the sill plates & window trim & no stripper would touch them. So the guy talked me into getting my rocker panels anodised in black rather than powder coated. I'll also remove my hand polished window trims and sill plates & get them clear anodised (natural). I'll let you know what it all comes out like. Anodising fades from the UV in sunlight as it bleaches the dye used. I don't know if the black dye will fade like the red, blue or gold does, but if it does I won't care - it means that we've had good weather :)
Good luck with the paint prep (you aren't alone!),
Paul

Biker

Dalannex, I didn't know Snap-On men had removable windshield trim. :)

71roadster

Good luck gettng that top piece off without :smash: . As careful as I tried to be it still came out with some dings. I can offer this. If you have some small dings or if it is a little twisted, consider taking it to a bumber shop for straightening and polishing (ask around at some resto shops if you are unsure). I took my top piece in for this and it came out beautifully. So nice I had to take the side pieces in so they would match. This was considerably cheaper than replacing these with new pieces. These pieces on my car are stainless steel. I don't know what they are for later cars. The member above is correct, anodized aluminum wont polish up at all. The anodize has to be removed, the piece polished, and then re-anodized for protection. I thought the trim on the later C3's was black painted stainless, but am not sure.


Chris

je68

the SS trim is flash chromed that I guess so that it will match the crome ends. I just had them polished and they look great. Check factory correct there are some post about this.

UKPaul

Nor did I - but the Snap-On men know that the rest of us have removable wealth :lol:

The windshield trim on an '81 should be painted black for originality, but it looks much better polished. I think the '80 trim was originally polished.
I'm pretty sure that the trim on mine is ally (it certainly polishes easily like ally). If it is stainless, then it must be a very soft grade, as I managed to remove all the dents & creases easily & it polished up a lot quicker than stainless normally does.
When removing the trim I found that sliding the top piece from side to side in its clips (after the side pieces have been removed!) made the clips "let go" easier (same for the rear window trim).

Justin: Started rubbing down my front bumper cover ready for painting last night - what a slow, painstaking job :( Any man that tackles an entire car at home has got my respect! Good luck with it & hope it all goes well.
Paul

Dalannex

Paul, the removable wealth thing is about right. The windshield trim tool wasn't bad though, it was only $7.50. Of course, I also bought a quarter inch drive breaker bar ($28.00), and a jug of hand cleaner ($18.00), so the bill still rang right up there. And now I'm going to talk to him about getting a knife for cutting windshields out. :yesnod:

Thanks for the compliment on the paint job. It is really coming along pretty well. I would say that I am over half way done with the prep. I do have those, "moments of doubt", but you guys always help me out with those. :D I'm going to buy my primer sealer, primer, a roll of 220 grit, and the associated hardeners, reducers, and what not this week. That should set me back close to $400. :eek: This painting bit isn't cheap, even when you do it yourself. :cheers:

Justin

UKPaul

Justin,
After struggling for hours to get the front bumper cover off, I bought a slim 1/4" socket wrench. Only £28-00 + VAT (about $45-00). But it's got a nice rubber bit on the handle so it must be worth every penny/cent ;)
I'm well into those "moments of doubt" - I just can't stop pulling my car apart. Each time I pull something off, I see something else that would look better painted, or needs fixing. I must have some sort of masochistic disease. I mean, I've got to remember how it all goes back together again :lol:
$400 sounds good to me - try getting a quote for a good Vette paintjob over here. For the money you could buy another Vette (now there's a thought, the GF keeps hinting that she'd like one. Then I could pull 2 C3's apart!!).
Better go - got a bumper to rub down :crazy:
Paul