Scott78

I just got done removing the a-arms to do the bushings. Both tie rods out and idler arm. Is the general consensus to use a pickle fork to separate the valve from the pitman arm or a puller. I plan on reusing the valve it doesn't leak(yet). My only concern is the hammering might screw up the valve or will it take it. Thanks for any feedback.
Scott


[Modified by Scott78, 9:01 AM 1/2/2002]

norvalwilhelm

I don't like to use a pickle forks on anything that is going to be reused. I recently removed my pitman arm with the control valve still attached. I did it this way since I had a pitman arm puller. After removing the pitman arm I unscrewed the control valve from the center link then put the pitman arm in a vice, put a spart nut on the control valve to protect the threads and popped it off without any damage to anything. If you use a pickle fork the boot on the control valve takes a beating. I will buy a tie rod puller soon and add it to my collection of pullers.
Good luck

Tom454

I have responded to this same question several times over the past few years and everytime I do, I get flamed by Bubba. Do not use a pickle fork. When you bang on the valve stud, you impart a jolt to the pitman arm which is directly transferred to the shaft which is then directly imparted to the bushing in the steering box. This, very obviously is not good. Use a puller to remove the valve ball stud from the pitman arm. I can give you an OTC tool part number if you need it.

Okay Bubba- it's your turn.




[Modified by Tom454, 10:25 AM 1/2/2002]

Scott78

Reading some of the other posts( I posted before searching) I see that Phoenix is doing the same thing. And that Norval recommended the fork but said kiss the boot goodbye. Now I still have left the pitman arm on the steering box and didn't really want to pull it off if possible. All thats left is the relay rod with the ram and control valve attached to itScott

Scott78

I see where you all are going. And it makes a lot of sense I'll get either a tie-rod puller or see if one of the half dozen or so pullers I have might can get a grip on it. The pitman arm puller I have is to big for this application. I suppose I'll just drop the pitman arm so I can work on it on the bench. I'll probaly get a bad case of "while I'm there" and do the control valve and ram. Heck I still have 3 months before it'll be nice enough to drive it. :lol:
Scott

norvalwilhelm

I do not recommend the pickle fork. It ruins everything it touches. I agree with Tom454. If you are replacing ball joints with new ones go ahead and use a pickle fork but for anything you are going to reuse avoid it. I had to remove my steering control valve and found it safer to remove the pitman arm then remove the steering control valve in the vise. I do not use pickle forks for anything that matters. I also did an extensive rebuild on a steering box and would not like to hammer on it.

Shutdown1

.....My Pitman arm wouln't come loose at all. So I had to use a pickle fork to get my linkage removed. Then I took the whole steering box to a machine shop and had them press the pitman arm off. As far as I can tell, the pickle fork did not damage anything (the joint broke lose without much effort) and I've been driving it for 3 months now with no leaks. Sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do!


'74 Turbocharged 350, "Molested to Perfection," class of '71

Richard Cooper

I used a pitman arm puller. Got it at Auto Zone $12.95.

lyonsh

Listen to this man. He knows whereof he speaks. :yesnod:

Tell Bubba to go find a Rustang to "work" on. :smash:

Shutdown1

Tom454

If you're replacing the part that could potentially get damaged by a pickle fork, then there is no issue. Go for it. The best solution is to just buy a puller. OTC makes two pullers with cross-bolts that tie the jaws together to prevent them from spreading when force is applied by the center screw. This is the key difference between the OTC tool and the others. I use these for removing balljoints, tie rod ends, pitman arms, and control valve ball studs. I have several pieces of bar stock steel that I insert between the center bolt and the target to allow more flexibility in the tools use. It is tricky to get the tool mounted for ball joint removal, but it can be done. This tool will not damage the boots if used properly. It's a win-win situation. I have pickle forks, but I rarely get a chance to use them.

If you use a pickle fork on a pitman arm, and you don't damage the bushing in the gear box, then luck is on your side or the pitman arm was not very tight and was not rusted in place. The seal is also compromised. But... if you are going to trash the box anyways, then bang away.

GTR1999

Tom,
Which OTC pullers do you use? I have started to look for some new tools and noticed several OTC types.
Thank you,
Gary

Tom454

OTC (SPX) Number 7311....
http://www.otctools.com/catalog/files/page76.pdf

Jim Shea

One other thing about using a pickle fork to remove a pitman arm from the steering gear. You can not only damage the pitman shaft seal, but you can also distort the gear housing in the seal area. This can cause even a new seal to leak around its outside sealing diameter and the gear housing bore.

GTR1999

Thanks Tom I think NAPA carries OTC tools,maybe Advance Auto too.
Gary

Shutdown1

.....Thanks, Tom.


'74 Turbocharged 350, "Molested to Perfection," class of 71.

phoenix

I must have been lucky. Just about the only thing that wasn't rusted solid was the pitman arm to the control valve. They separated very easily after cleaning them up and disconnecting the cylinder and relay rod.

Maybe that is why my steering was so loose prior to my tearing it all apart??

Tom454

Pheonix-

If your control valve stud just popped off with little or no effort, then be sure to check the pitman arm hole for "eggshaping". If it was loose enough to flop around, the hole can get damaged. Also- don't forget you are supposed to torque these things. Too loose can cause damage, too tight makes them extremely hard to remove the next time because it is a tapered fit.

Tom