How I replaced valve stem seals with heads on (small block)
01-01-2002, 06:56 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
How I replaced valve stem seals with heads on (small block)
After talking to a engine builder about my excessive oil consumption he suggested that I replace the valve stem seals with a positive type simiular to crane # 270-99819-16 available at Jegs, and install the metal umbrella cover that goes over the top of the valve spring under the retainer.
I purchased a spring lever and air pressure spark plug adapter from the local auto supply, the engine builder supplied the seals and covers.
First I removed the fan, rocker covers and coil wire. Next I placed #1 on TDC after I marked my harmonic balancer every ninety degrees. With # 1 at TDC I removed rocker arm and pushrod on both intake and exhaust. I removed and installed the air fitting in the spark plug hole and put the car in gear with wheels chocked (I have a four speed) to prevent the motor from turning once air pressure is applied. I then levered the valve spring down until it touched the piston, with a little more pressure the retainers will break loose and you can remove them with needle nose pliers. Unscrew the rocker arm nut and remove the lever and spring. Remove existing seal and install new positive seals that push down over the valve guide. Reassemble spring with cover and lever down over valve stem and place the keepers.
Adjust rocker arm and set preload. I used 1/2 turn past zero lash (that I determined by twisting the pushrod until it stops). Remove air fitting and reinstall spark plug.
Turn motor to next mark (90 degrees) and go to next cylinder following firing order and proceed as above. I found that is was uneccessary to use the air fitting which saves alot of time not having to remove the spark plug. The new seals will keep the valve in the up position while reinstalling the spring. You might have to lift the valve by gripping it with a small pair of pliers once spring is compressed to install the keepers.
Follow the above procedures until all eight are replaced.
I hope this information is helpful, once weather permits I will put some miles on the car and see if it improved my oil comsumption.
Happy new year to all.
I purchased a spring lever and air pressure spark plug adapter from the local auto supply, the engine builder supplied the seals and covers.
First I removed the fan, rocker covers and coil wire. Next I placed #1 on TDC after I marked my harmonic balancer every ninety degrees. With # 1 at TDC I removed rocker arm and pushrod on both intake and exhaust. I removed and installed the air fitting in the spark plug hole and put the car in gear with wheels chocked (I have a four speed) to prevent the motor from turning once air pressure is applied. I then levered the valve spring down until it touched the piston, with a little more pressure the retainers will break loose and you can remove them with needle nose pliers. Unscrew the rocker arm nut and remove the lever and spring. Remove existing seal and install new positive seals that push down over the valve guide. Reassemble spring with cover and lever down over valve stem and place the keepers.
Adjust rocker arm and set preload. I used 1/2 turn past zero lash (that I determined by twisting the pushrod until it stops). Remove air fitting and reinstall spark plug.
Turn motor to next mark (90 degrees) and go to next cylinder following firing order and proceed as above. I found that is was uneccessary to use the air fitting which saves alot of time not having to remove the spark plug. The new seals will keep the valve in the up position while reinstalling the spring. You might have to lift the valve by gripping it with a small pair of pliers once spring is compressed to install the keepers.
Follow the above procedures until all eight are replaced.
I hope this information is helpful, once weather permits I will put some miles on the car and see if it improved my oil comsumption.
Happy new year to all.
01-01-2002, 07:08 PM
#2
Le Mans Master
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Re: How I replaced valve stem seals with heads on (Milest)
That's the procedure, one improvement would be that you can do two of the cylinders for each 90% turn, saves a little work. Good tip, in plain understandable language.
