Kim72

OK, so the car is back from the paint shop and I have carefully color sanded the clear coat with 1500 grit paper (wet). It's as smooth as a baby's butt. I've machine buffed it using rubbing compound and then finishing compound but, although the shine is 100% better, it still has a slight haze to it. Am I not buffing hard enough or long enough?? I worry about buffing to much and possibly screwing up the finish. Would going to Zaino at this point remove the slight haze?? Any help here would be greatfull.

lbell101

Sounds like the compound or pad you are using in the final step is too aggressive. For the best results, the paint should look haze free before any glaze. If all the big scratches are gone and you still have haze try a final finish soft buff (no waffle) with fine cut cleaner (I think it's Meguirs or Mirror glaze - I'm getting old and I'm too lazy to go back to the garage). Buff it in small sections (at not a real fast speed) until all the cleaner comes off and leaves a shiny surface. Then go over that with machine glaze using the same method. Don't use any waxes for a month or so.

Paul 75 L82

I just watched my painter do this. It's the only thing on my paint job I didn't do myself. Ok, use the lambs wool pad first next use the foam pad and a finer compound. You can buy them at your paint supply. The foam removes most of the buffing pad marks. Next use 3M Imperial Hand Glaze. That will fill the marks that the foam pad left. The more you use the Hand Glaze the better it looks.

vettfixr

Kim
You're on the right track but there are two steps more in the process. The 1500 grit sandpaper takes the tops off the paint nibs and gives you a flat surface. The polishing compound then removes the sandpaper scratches but also leaves very fine scratches in the process. This is the haze that you see. The next step you should do is to buff the car with 3M Swirl and Haze remover. Do this in two steps. First use a rotary buffer to take mose of the haze out. Then use a dual action buffer which will remove any marks left by the rotary. At this point you will have a completely flat and swirl free finish. You can then do one of two things. You can use Meguiars or 3M hand glaze followed by a good wax which will give you a brilliant finish but not a very long lasting one. Or, you could get some Zaino and give the car a coat of Z5 swirl remover followed by 2 coats of Z2 polish. This will give you the same brilliant shine but it will last much longer. For more on paintcare go to my website. Good Luck.

ORVette

What color? I agree with the previous replies. I did nothing but color sand and buff cars at a local collision shop for like 4 years, and that's a lot of cars! I think most people develop their own techniques, and they all work pretty much, but heres's mine basically. I start with 1500 wet sand, sometimes 1200 for working small runs because it cuts a little faster, but 1500 finish. Then I use a white wool 3M pad and Presta 1500 compound. Tan 3M Perfect it works fine too, it's just a little messier(sp?). Work in small area's and watch the edges! Allways buff off the panel, and tape adjacent edges if neccessary to protect them. When done with this step, clean the surface and cracks to prevent the aggressive compound from contaminating your pads for the following steps. Now I switch to a yellow 3M wool pad and 3M Finesse It, it's not very aggressive and will only remove buffer swirls, so it's important to get the previous step right. Always work each step the best you can, don't rely on the next step to mask things you left from the last one. Now, it's not so critical to clean up after the Finesse because it is not very aggressive and won't effect the next step, just a good wipe down will do. Last I switch to a waffled 3M foam pad for removing swirls. They have different pads and compounds for light and dark colors, but they work the same. This is the 3M swirl remover and you should use it sparingly. Don't skimp, but don't soak the pad either or you'll never get it to buff off the panel. I work this step at a lower (about 1500rpm's) speed, as opposed to 2-3000 for the others. Be careful, the foam pad can really heat up fast, and it will cut through edges as fast as a wool pad. Keep working in small areas, and overlap sections. After this I usually was ready for wax. I know lots of people prefer to wait on this, but I feel that after working the paint to this point, it has pretty much kicked all it's going to, and it's important to protect this new surface. I didn't apply the wax in a circular motion, but rather just wiped it on in long strokes. Don't be too aggressive, the surface is pretty tender and will scratch easily even with a clean applicator. I allways use cloth baby diapers, they're as soft as anything else. It takes a while, have lots of light(flourescent). Good luck!

Kim72

The color is "Steel Cities Grey". Looks pretty good if I don't say so myself. The paint shop did a very nice job. I've had a lot of good comments re: the color.
Thank you all for the info you have given me. This is turning out to be like work. I do see the shine coming back but it seems to be taking forever. I will try some of your ideas and keep at it. I'm looking forward to getting by this phase so i can put more chrome (bumpers, emblems, etc...) back on the car.

CF6873

Kim72; What kind of paint are you buffing and what kind of rubbing compound did you use? If it is urethane clear you can't use aggressive rubbing compounds like we used to use for lacquer. I hope you used a heavy cut cleaner made for urethane. If you have haze or scratches still in the surface they must be totally gone before going to a finer compound or cleaner. Good Luck, Craig