daniel77350

This is the latest update to the engine detail. I need help removing two bolts. Go to the website to see which two Im talking about. Also the page has update to my detail.
http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3//da...inedetail2.htm
Daniel

daniel77350

ttt...

someone has to know...if I can't get these bolts out, there is no point in going on with the detail... Not to mention my radiator shroud won't go back on.

Daniel

paso

Daniel Those bolts will not turn out. You may get lucky and they will snap when you apply presure to them. I would try get a BIG pipe wrench on them and use a pipe on the end of the pipe wrench for extra leverage. The head of those bolts are shot anyway. What I did was use a hand grinder and cut the head off the bolt and it will just fall out. I noticed you said a cutting torch is out. Have you ever tried a "nut Cracker" they work also if you have room to tighten them. Or take a sharpe chisel and "crack the nut" so you just have to tap the bolt out.

mrvette

Well, I assume you mean a welding ox/cetalyne torch is out,...but a propane is allmost as useful here.....

first, take a hammer and cold steel chisel, or better yet one of those exhaust chissel air tools...and rattle the heads, shank of those bolts...not to cut them and deform what's there, but loosten up the rust....
then put/hammer a smaller socket onto the heads.....
all this after putting derust soaking oil on them overnite....
now the propane is useful to heat them up a good bit, not to melt them of course, but get them good and hot....
take some dry ice or maybe even fresh ice from icebox, and apply rapidly to the heads of the bolts, take previously fitted socket on an impact wrench..very quickly....and they should come right out.....

if no impact is available, try a big assed wrench....but nothing persuades like an impact......but you GOT to use an appropriately undersized socket, as we do NOT want to round them off......

forget force, it's finesse that counts here....maybe an overnite oil soaking...

GENE

daniel77350

the passangers side bolt is stripped and the drivers side is so rusted its not even 6 sided anymore, its just a blob. The back of the bolts have one of those 4 sided nut things, which is cool, but its welded to the back of the bracket, which is, in turn, welded to the frame.

How strong are welds? Im thinking, for that nut on the back, I can brake or cut the weld(its only on 1 of the 4 sides), then cut the heads off and send it out the back...Then when I reassemble I'll have to use 6 sided bolts on the back. But thats alright, just means reassembly will be a little harder.

Daniel

mrvette

Dan, it sounds like a communist plot to me.....go for it....the power is yours....;-))).....

GENE

2ND77

A gringing wheel is the esiest way to do this. Just grind off the weld/heads and let them drop out.

Ron

daniel77350

your supposed to suggest what I should use to brake/cut the welds, and to cut the heads off the bolts. :jester What about a sawzall for the heads, and a hammer/chissle for the welds??

Maybe if I wait until mid january, I can use a phunmatic grinder...we're supposed to get out air compressor in early jan(its on back order), then I can get any/all the phunmatic tools I want, maybe a grinder will be the first buy.

Daniel

mrvette

I have had a compressor for over 10 years now, and a sawzall for decades....so those are the two things I rely on to get me over the 'hard spots'......I think from what you say, your plot is good.....I find most grinders are hard to work with....in awkward positions anyway....and also try a dremel tool.....dremel is small enough that when time/care is used it can do poopie that other bigger tools can't.....dremel is why I never bought a large air/die/grinder....cutoff....

GENE

The_Dude

I probably wouldn't try and cut the welds off of the welded nut in the back. Soak the god out of them with good penetrating oil for a day or two and try and turn them out. You would be amazed at what good penetrating oil (not WD40) can do. If they break, get a reverse drill bit and try and drill a small hole in what's left. Then try an easy out (don't break it), or a bigger drill bit and clean up the threads with a tap. Unfortunately, bolts like this are not uncommon in old cars and you will need to know different techniques to remove them. Good luck.

The_Dude

Another suggestion. Heat the bolt and put some parafin wax on it. The heat will draw the parafin into the threads and may allow you to break it loose. I haven't ever tried this technique, but it was suggested to my wife on her Mustang forum and sounds like it could work.

daniel77350

well one little tap on the passangers side bolt broke the weld off...Im not worried about when reassembly comes, because the nut will be easy to get too, in fact I have seen nuts in harder to reach places, where they should have used the weld technique...this is probably one of the easier nuts to get to...So now all thats left on that side is cutting the bolt head off...butt for the drivers side, there is so much rust, you guys don't understand...its not a bolt anymore, I just cleaned away all the rust, and not its basically a rivet, so there is no getting a socket on that...It will have to be cut off...

I will try a dremel...

Daniel

1yy07

Get you a can of this, PB,Blaster penrtrating catalyst stuff works good. 1-800-858-6605! :cool: :chevy