Distributor Question?
#1
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Distributor Question?
This afternoon I took my distributor apart as part of my general freshening of the top of my engine. I'm also going to install the vacuum advance kit I got from Lars last year (yeah, I know I'm slow.) After I pulled it all apart and cleaned everything I really couldn't see much sign of wear on any of the moving parts. No scoring or other signs of self distruction.
I'm going to put it all back together tomorrow, but I need a couple of answers. How much up and down movement is the spec for the shaft assembly? And, are shims and seals usually available from autoparts stores?
Thanks
I'm going to put it all back together tomorrow, but I need a couple of answers. How much up and down movement is the spec for the shaft assembly? And, are shims and seals usually available from autoparts stores?
Thanks
#2
Tech Contributor
Re: Distributor Question? (Smokehouse69)
Steve,
I can tell you what I did back in July to the distributor out of my 69. I too used Lars kit, which I believe had shims with it? I have another one here I can check if you like. Anyway I pulled the distributor apart and cleaned it good. The instuctions in Lars kit are excellant BTW. With everything clean I checked the play in the housing bushings by lightly oilingthe main shaft and sliding it in the bushing. Then using a dial indicator placed against the shaft I checked for play in between the bushing/shaft. In my case I had about .001-.002" which is fine. The shims that were in there had about .060" end play between the housing/gear, I reshimmed this down to .008-.010" and installed the gear withthe spotface pointing in the same direction as the rotor for correct timing. Speed shops carry the gear shims if you need some. The seal and felt washer under the breaker plate weren't available at any local store so I cleaned the felt and made a seal from a piece of plastic approx the same thickness as the old one. The main shaft gear and tach gear were in good shape so all I did was t file smooth the end of the tach gear. This housing didn't use the button that some of the newer dist use. I found the breaker plate spot welds were broken and the ground wire was shot. I found the same type of plate on an old chevy non-tach drive dist I had in a parts box under my workbench. I used Mobil 1 automotive synthetic grease on the gears and in the well for the upper bushing. Follow Lars steps and it should fire right up, at least minr did.
Good Luck,
Gary
I can tell you what I did back in July to the distributor out of my 69. I too used Lars kit, which I believe had shims with it? I have another one here I can check if you like. Anyway I pulled the distributor apart and cleaned it good. The instuctions in Lars kit are excellant BTW. With everything clean I checked the play in the housing bushings by lightly oilingthe main shaft and sliding it in the bushing. Then using a dial indicator placed against the shaft I checked for play in between the bushing/shaft. In my case I had about .001-.002" which is fine. The shims that were in there had about .060" end play between the housing/gear, I reshimmed this down to .008-.010" and installed the gear withthe spotface pointing in the same direction as the rotor for correct timing. Speed shops carry the gear shims if you need some. The seal and felt washer under the breaker plate weren't available at any local store so I cleaned the felt and made a seal from a piece of plastic approx the same thickness as the old one. The main shaft gear and tach gear were in good shape so all I did was t file smooth the end of the tach gear. This housing didn't use the button that some of the newer dist use. I found the breaker plate spot welds were broken and the ground wire was shot. I found the same type of plate on an old chevy non-tach drive dist I had in a parts box under my workbench. I used Mobil 1 automotive synthetic grease on the gears and in the well for the upper bushing. Follow Lars steps and it should fire right up, at least minr did.
Good Luck,
Gary