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Squeeky suspension - usual suspect?

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Old 07-25-2008, 08:10 AM
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Berger6696
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Default Squeeky suspension - usual suspect?

What's normally the culprit when the suspension creeks and squeeks over bumps? What a good replacement product?

I have a 97 A4 and to my knowledge no suspension work has been done on this car.
Old 07-25-2008, 08:19 AM
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10U 99
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front and or rear sway bar bushings. quick and easy fix, just a little grease. DIY
Old 07-25-2008, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by 10U 99
front and or rear sway bar bushings. quick and easy fix, just a little grease. DIY


And shock bushings...

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Old 07-25-2008, 09:07 AM
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Ghost Vette
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Originally Posted by 10U 99
front and or rear sway bar bushings. quick and easy fix, just a little grease. DIY
I agree. I had to take the bushing out and clean and grease them on the rear. Otherwise the squeak came back for me. After cleaning and greasing, not more problem.
Old 07-25-2008, 09:12 AM
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Are poly bushings better or worse than rubber for squeeks? I know the poly performs better, but that aside is there any difference?
Old 07-25-2008, 09:12 AM
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Berger6696
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N00b alert - Anyone got a pic or good description of where the bushings are? What kind of grease do I need to get?
Old 07-25-2008, 09:34 AM
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10U 99
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Originally Posted by Berger6696
N00b alert - Anyone got a pic or good description of where the bushings are? What kind of grease do I need to get?
the sway bars are the black bars that connects the left suspension to the right. on each end is a two swivel link. the bar is connected to the frame by two bushings. two fasteners secure each of the bushing brackets. the rubber bushings are split for easy removal. when both sides of the suspension are equal there is no torsonal twist to the bar and won't bite you when you loosen the brackets. no need to remove the end links to grease the bushing. the rear brackets are held in place by one of the lower control arm bolt with a nut securing it. when replacing the nut be sure to retorque to 70 ft lbs.

I use synthetic grease because I have it on hand and some rubbers are attacked by petroleum products.

Last edited by 10U 99; 07-26-2008 at 07:25 AM.
Old 07-25-2008, 09:53 AM
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Berger6696
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Originally Posted by 10U 99
the sway bars are the black bars that connects the left suspension to the right. on each end is a two swivel link. the bar is connected to the frame by two bushings. two fasteners secure each of the bushing brackets. the rubber bushings are split for easy removal. when both sides of the suspension are equal there is no torsonal twist to the bar and won't bite you when you loosen the brackets. no need to remove the end links to grease the bushing. the rear brackets are held in place by one of the lower control arm bolt with a nut securing it. when replacing the nut be sure to retorque to 43 ft lbs.

I use synthetic grease because I have it on hand and some rubbers are attacked by petroleum products.
excellent, thanks!
Old 07-26-2008, 01:48 AM
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DefenderC5
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The endlink nuts are a bit difficult to torque given their location and their type... "pretty tight" works pretty well on these too.

The sway bar bushing brackets have an upper bolt and a lower nut. The top one is torqued to 49 ft/lbs and the bottom nut is torqued to 71 ft/lbs. It's really easy to do.

When you lube the bushing, make sure to get all the contact areas. One commonly missed area is the flat back of the bushing where it makes contact with the crossmember.

Here is a how-to for the sway bars to help you out.

http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=16
Old 07-29-2008, 01:26 PM
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NeoZ06
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Question, do these end links at the front cause a "clicking" when you accelerate from a dead stop? How would i know my end links need to be replaced? Any particular noises i should look for? This is at the front...

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