Blues77

I know nothing about carbs , but figured id give it a shot. Where should I buy a rebuild kit from, and what else will I need. I was also considering replacing manifold. Whats the best buy for a stock engine.

Blues77

forgot to mention I purchased Rochester carb book by Doug Roe, to get me started. any good sites out there or anything else I should study? Thanks

Jvette73

EDL-2101 is a good intake for stock replacement. Get a Borg Warner rebuild kit from your local parts store. Match it to the # on the side of the carb.

Tom454

Make sure the throttle shaft bore in the carb base is not worn, or you will waste your time with a rebuild. If the base is worn, and the shaft is okay, then the base can be bushed with a bronze bushing. This requires special machining tools. If the shaft is worn as well, then a bushing alone will not be enough.

Typically, these wear out because the carb return spring uses the carb base as a pivot. As the soft base wears, the carb begins to suck air past the shaft. Then, to compensate for a rough idle and tuning problems, the mechanic turns up the idle and/or installs a stiffer spring.... which accelerates the problem & wear.

Besides bushing the carb, I manufacture & install a carb return bracket/spring that does not use the carb & shaft as a pivot.... space allowing.

Techno

Depending on the condition of the carb you'll probalby find the internals didn't seem to need a re-build. What your doing is changing the gaskets and float needle, accelerator pump and setting the float level. Other than that the calibration of the carb after rebuild.
This is where the book is handy, when you do these calibrations instead of doing them blindly by step you have an idea of what each adjustment does to the next.
A carb is actually about 3-5 different machines that overlap thier functions and modify other funtions, understanding these functions helps the calibration.

After the rebuild your not done, you should tune the airvalve secondaries to an actual road test, not a so many turns adjustment. And the choke mechanism may need a little tweaking. Idle screws need to be adjusted as well.
Remember to set the throttle blades to wide open when you adjust the throttle cable. this can ruin it if the pedal can strain the butterflys.

Gary79

i might add to use some JB Weld epoxy to seal the well plugs in the base of the carb. over time the plugs leak, allowing gas thru them,resulting in a too rich condition.

lars

Blues -
For parts, the Echlin brand kits are excellent quality and highly recomended (sold by NAPA). Replace the float with a new NitroFill float - the old ones tend to get a little "waterlogged" over time. New float is only a few bucks. (Note that you can buy either brass or NitroFill floats - I recommend the NitroFills since they weigh and float the same as the originals).
Another part that is commonly defective is the choke pulloff ("vacuum break diaphragm"). Put a vac hose on it and suck on it to make sure it holds a vacuum and that it operates. New ones run about $25.
If you're not the first owner of your car, you might want to check the jetting that's in the carb vs. what the spec calls for for your list number. A lot of these carbs have had a little "creative jetting" done to them over the years, and getting it back to stock is a good place to start for a performance setup. Contact me if you need the jetting specs (just give me your carb number).

Good job diving into it and doing it! Contact me if you need help - I can call you if you run into any trouble.
V8FastCars@msn.com