I could use a little help with brakes and engine brakets-pulleys
#1
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I could use a little help with brakes and engine brakets-pulleys
I have a 72 454 coupe. The brakes are a nightmare, and I am not even sure that it has the right brackets and pulleys on it. I have scoured the net and part suppliers and can't find any info on brackets. Does anyone have/make them anymore? Does anyone know if the serpentine set up from a late model pickup would work?
Now for the brakes :(
I am totally fed up with the stock brake system. I would really like to replace the whole thing. I have read an article about SS Brakes force 10 system and it sounded promising. Does anyone have any experience with it? About how much money would I be looking at spending? Please tell anything you know- be it good bad or ugly.
Also I have read about some members on this forum going to Wilwood brakes, using fabricated brackets. If I were to do this swap, what all parts would I need to get, particularly: what rotors are used with the Dynalite II calipers?
Thanks in advance for any help that you can give me.
Happy New Year to all
Ryan
Now for the brakes :(
I am totally fed up with the stock brake system. I would really like to replace the whole thing. I have read an article about SS Brakes force 10 system and it sounded promising. Does anyone have any experience with it? About how much money would I be looking at spending? Please tell anything you know- be it good bad or ugly.
Also I have read about some members on this forum going to Wilwood brakes, using fabricated brackets. If I were to do this swap, what all parts would I need to get, particularly: what rotors are used with the Dynalite II calipers?
Thanks in advance for any help that you can give me.
Happy New Year to all
Ryan
#2
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Re: I could use a little help with brakes and engine brakets-pulleys (mcclain2000)
Try March....http://www.marchperf.com/ for a solution to your bracket and pulley woes. They have complete packages available. Just be sure to order the right set!!!!
I cant help with the brackes... I havent done mine...not yet anyway!
Welcome to the forum!
I cant help with the brackes... I havent done mine...not yet anyway!
Welcome to the forum!
#3
Team Owner
Re: I could use a little help with brakes and engine brakets-pulleys (mcclain2000)
Well without more espain about the brakes, it's sorta hard to help...but in general, the cheapest way to go is check out the calipers to see if they are stainless lined in the piston bores....about 90% of them should be, by now anyway....if not, need get SS lines ones....and O ring pistons, and a new master cylinder....available through local parts house...but the O ring piston kit and SS calipers, if you need them....are a Vette Brakes/Products item....some other places also carry them, I"m just partial to Vette Brakes....
along with a good set of rotors and you have brakes good enough for anything but *****-out competition....the stock rotors are 1.25" thick and that's as thick as an all out racing rotor, just maybe not so large in diameter due to the 15" stock wheels.....
I"d give the stock setup a chance first before spend tons of cash on another system that may in fact be unneeded.....
GENE
along with a good set of rotors and you have brakes good enough for anything but *****-out competition....the stock rotors are 1.25" thick and that's as thick as an all out racing rotor, just maybe not so large in diameter due to the 15" stock wheels.....
I"d give the stock setup a chance first before spend tons of cash on another system that may in fact be unneeded.....
GENE
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Re: I could use a little help with brakes and engine brakets-pulleys (mcclain2000)
Just to give a little more info on the brake problem. I have replaced the master cylender, rubber brake lines, metal brake lines, proportioning valve. The calipers are sleeved, and the pads are good. I have bled the snot out of them only to be left with the petal traveling all the way to the floor, just can't get a pedal. I have had the calipers checked by a certified GM mechanic that I trust completely, he found no leaks, and when we bled the brakes we were not getting any air out of the lines. The rotors were measured for wear and were found to be in tolerance. My car does not have power brakes so a bad booster is out of the question. I have already spent plenty of money on the stock system so I do not feel as if I am not giving them a chance. I am just to the point of not wanting to continue throwing money at a "now" inferior breaking system. If I am going to have to go the rest of the way through the brake system I would just prefer to upgrade while I am at it.
I truly don't know what else to try on these brakes. Any info is apreciated
I truly don't know what else to try on these brakes. Any info is apreciated
#5
Team Owner
Re: I could use a little help with brakes and engine brakets-pulleys (mcclain2000)
Mcclain, what you are saying don't make a whole lot of sense to me...in other words...every thing is new...and you didn't mention the master cylinder....is it new also??? if so, I"d replace it again....and gravity bleed the system....
NOW IF the pedal goes to the floor after driving a few blocks or maybe even a while...the problem is the so called 'runout' of the rotors....
take all the calipers apart again and remove those silly springs from back of the pistons...it will add to that 'soft-spongy' feel of the pedal, but prevent the infamous 'pumping' of air into the caliper due to silly design at the start....
GENE
NOW IF the pedal goes to the floor after driving a few blocks or maybe even a while...the problem is the so called 'runout' of the rotors....
take all the calipers apart again and remove those silly springs from back of the pistons...it will add to that 'soft-spongy' feel of the pedal, but prevent the infamous 'pumping' of air into the caliper due to silly design at the start....
GENE
#6
Melting Slicks
Re: I could use a little help with brakes and engine brakets-pulleys (mcclain2000)
Stingrays have special rear calipers with two bleeder valves per caliper. Most other cars have just one. My guess is that the mechanic didn't know about it, and didn't bleed the inside valve. The rear tires must be removed in order to properly bleed the system. The bleeding order is Right Rear Inside, RROutside, LeftRI, LRO, RFront, LF. Be sure to hold down the brake pedal while closing the bleeder valve, and make sure the MC doesn't go dry. Also, be sure you cover any painted surfaces with thick cloth or plastic to prevent brake fluid from getting on it, cause brake fluid will eat it up and stain it and turn a nice paint job into the ugliest mess you've ever seen.
My opinion is that calipers should not be rebuilt in the shop unless you have a table mounted bench press cause the bolts holding them require like 175ftlb of torque which can't be measured by holding the pieces by hand much less apply the required force without smashing fingers and personal areas.
Also, unless you bleed the brakes by pumping the brake pedal then you may not detect small leaks which are large enough to allow air in, but too small to allow fluid out.
My opinion is that calipers should not be rebuilt in the shop unless you have a table mounted bench press cause the bolts holding them require like 175ftlb of torque which can't be measured by holding the pieces by hand much less apply the required force without smashing fingers and personal areas.
Also, unless you bleed the brakes by pumping the brake pedal then you may not detect small leaks which are large enough to allow air in, but too small to allow fluid out.
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Re: I could use a little help with brakes and engine brakets-pulleys (mcclain2000)
I have to add my recommendation about the "silly little springs". Don't take them out. You're asking for total brake failure because the pistons were designed to be held in place by these springs. They can become mis-placed, (cocked/twisted) in the brake cylinders and the seal fail.
The standard Vette brakes are good and do work. They do require attention, but no more than any braking system. If yours isn't working after all the attention you've given it, I'd suggest a GOOD shop. Finding it will be harder than fixing the system. Ask friends, or folks that work with Vette's. Any reasonable mechanic worth anything will get the system up and running in half a day. Any don't fall for the "it's a corvette, so the brakes are impossible to work on or fix" story. Again, any good mechanic that is aware of the requirements of the Vette brakes will fix it, and it'll work just fine.
My 2 cents.
Andy
The standard Vette brakes are good and do work. They do require attention, but no more than any braking system. If yours isn't working after all the attention you've given it, I'd suggest a GOOD shop. Finding it will be harder than fixing the system. Ask friends, or folks that work with Vette's. Any reasonable mechanic worth anything will get the system up and running in half a day. Any don't fall for the "it's a corvette, so the brakes are impossible to work on or fix" story. Again, any good mechanic that is aware of the requirements of the Vette brakes will fix it, and it'll work just fine.
My 2 cents.
Andy
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Re: I could use a little help with brakes and engine brakets-pulleys (mrvette)
My problems with the brakes on this car don't make a lot of sense to me either. The Master Cylender is brand new Delco, to the tune of about 150 bucks. My mechanic was aware of the 2 sets of bleeders on the rear, we had the car on a lift with all 4 wheels off when we bled it out. Pressure was good enough to squirt a pretty good stream, but no pedal, and when we put it back together to get it out of his way at his shop, it would barely stop a 5 MPH roll. He even checked the angle between the rod from the pedal and the Master Cylender, as this can cause a soft pedal, if it is off its angle. I am just at a loss. I apreciate all of the replies that I have gotten. Any more suggestions?
#9
Burning Brakes
Re: I could use a little help with brakes and engine brakets-pulleys (mcclain2000)
Ryan
Is the length of the plunger rod adjustable on a non power brake system? If so, and someone has changed it over the years, it can cause the problem you describe.
Is the length of the plunger rod adjustable on a non power brake system? If so, and someone has changed it over the years, it can cause the problem you describe.