MARKUS_P

Yesterday I was looking into my summit cataloque and saw these Airoquip - Earl systems for routing metal braided hoses from the pump to the carb.
Iīve seen them on different racing cars and now I wonder if itīs dangerous to use simple rubber lines as fuel lines (in fact they are fuel lines, but not steel braided) and to route them over the manifold to the carb.
Is the steel braiding for high pressure purposes or is it because of the high temperature to avoid burning of the hose?
I havnīt got a monster engine and I use a low pressure pump 5-6 psi for fuel delivery, and just because of saving the lines against burning..... if the steel braiding gets in contact with a hot surface it would transfere the heat to the inner hose too, right?
Donīt get me wrong, I think Earl and Airoquip systems are really good, but do I really need them? -they are very expensive!
And last not least maybe a dumb question...
How do you connect the system to the steel fuel line on your frame?
Maybe the hose is flexible enough to push it over the steel line, then you can use a hose clamp to get it tight, but if I use one clamp in the whole system the advantage of the race plumbing isnīt there any more, like the weakest link of a chain.......
Anyway, if anybody uses these systems, perhaps someone can make a few pictures and tell me WHY they use them......
Thanks for your comments, Markus
(Iīm considering to use them too, so GIVE ME A REASON TO SPEND MY MONEY :crazy: )


[Modified by MARKUS_P, 10:52 AM 12/27/2001]

rainman69

Lars will probably jump on this when he sees it and give you more/better information...but, you can take a 3/8" brake line, a (double) flaring tool, a bender, and a line cutter and make a very nice steel line from the pump to the carb in about 10-15 minutes.

If you search the C1/C2 forum for a post about Demon carbs from BlkBlt, it should have a link to the article for making the line. :smash:

mrvette

Well I guess for the absolute ULTIMATE in total crashworthiness, and reliability, a steel line is the way to go...BUT ....in fact for decades I ran with ordinary rubber fuel line hose, double clamped on both ends, from the carb to the pump...following the original routing, certainly not near any hot spots....saves the carb housings when removing and tuning....
now having said that....I was usually under the hood every week, and check things out...maybe after 4-5 years I"d have to replace the line,,,..but you know, some car owners don't even open the damn hood in that length of time....

GENE

7Bob3

Marcus
The reason for the steel braided hose is abraision resistance. If you throw a belt, part of the motor or the fan ends up someplace it shouldn't be it won't be cut on the pressure side. A steel line from the pump to the carb will serve the same purpose. Now, if you want to run the pressure line away from the motor to keep the fuel a little cooler, the braided line is alot easier to work with. If your going to use this arguement you also need to buy a phonlic spacer. And the last reason is, Dang, they look cool. You still will run a short, 5 in , piece of rubber hose from the steel line on the frame to the pump but this area is protected and is on the suction side. There are pictures on the link below.

Jack71

Checked out the thread -- couldn't find the link to the article & the pictures of the setup expired. I'd like to give the steel line a try but need some guidance. Any pointers?

Jvette73

If you decide to use rubber fuel hose make sure you get the high quality stuff. Lots of cheapo material out there. You can also take a second piece of fuel hose and slice it lengthwise and wrap it around the critical areas for some protection. A couple of small zip ties will help hold it in place. As for the connection to the frame(return line), some people recomend retaining this hookup to help prevent vapor lock from pressure in the line after shutting off a hot engine. I hooked mine up using an inline filter(mopar style) that has a second fitting on one end. Flare the ends of the steel lines and use high quality clamps too.

Techno

The braided hoses actually come in two flavors, one with metal jacketing braid and one without. These are high pressure lines and defienately aren't needed with a carbed engine. They use aircraft or hydralic fittings so you would need to put an adapter on them. You can get them from Mcmaster-Carr also.
The braid I believe is to provide some armouring to the hose. I think in some cases it actually increases the pressure rating of the hose, you don't need 2,000psi! The problem with braiding is it acts like a file on anything it touches and abrades that part!
You can get plastic "stainless steel braid" and slide it over a hose, or actual SS braid. This isn't part of the hose and is only a dress up. This is much cheaper and easier to do.

MARKUS_P

Thanks for clearifying......