Crane valve guide seals ??
#1
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Crane valve guide seals ??
Has anyone had any experience with these valve guide seals? My car has the classic blue smoke at start up, and was considering the Crane seals. I need to know if they can be installed with the engine still in the car using compressed air to hold the valves closed. I heard the Crane seals are the best, and don't require any mod to the valve guide area. Can anyone comment on this ? Thanks. Car is a '79 L-48.....
#2
Re: Crane valve guide seals ?? (johnnyc)
They were recommended to me. I ordered from Jeg's this morning for Thursday delivery. Should be on the car by Friday nite cruisin'.. Stay tuned, I'll let you know if they really work. BTW, I also had faint blue smoke on startup as my reason for trying them.
#3
Re: Crane valve guide seals ?? (72Shark)
OK, a little follow-up. Got the Crane Cams "umbrella" valve seals that do not require machining of the valve guide bosses on the cvlinder head. I installed them on my 72 and VIOLA, no more light blue smoke!!! Ran around for awhile and shut down, restart...shut down ....restart....NO SMOKE!!!
A few install tips: For the first time I used a magnet pin to remove the locks (split keys) during the vavle spring removal process. I'm a converted believer now, try this if you've never, it speeds things up.
Remove the old "O-rings" and slip the umbrella seal on the valve. I used my spark plug socket to "seat" the seal on the valve boss. It will click on the boss and appear to be seated, but press a little bit and you will feel it click again. Now its set correctly. Put a new O-ring on, replace valve spring, keeper, and locks. Then replace the pushrods and rocker arms, set pre-load (with running engine works best) and you're done!! :cheers:
A few install tips: For the first time I used a magnet pin to remove the locks (split keys) during the vavle spring removal process. I'm a converted believer now, try this if you've never, it speeds things up.
Remove the old "O-rings" and slip the umbrella seal on the valve. I used my spark plug socket to "seat" the seal on the valve boss. It will click on the boss and appear to be seated, but press a little bit and you will feel it click again. Now its set correctly. Put a new O-ring on, replace valve spring, keeper, and locks. Then replace the pushrods and rocker arms, set pre-load (with running engine works best) and you're done!! :cheers:
#4
Burning Brakes
Re: Crane valve guide seals ?? (72Shark)
Quote: "Put a new O-ring on, replace valve spring, keeper, and locks. Then replace the pushrods and rocker arms, set pre-load (with running engine works best) and you're done!! "
Glad this worked for you, but I found it much better to first install the valve spring & cap, then compress the valve spring assembly, and THEN install the little rubber o-ring, then locks, and then release the spring compressor.
I found from experience, that installation of the o-ring prior to compressing the spring & cap usually resulted in pushing the o-ring out of the groove in the valve, and pushing it down further on the valve stem.
Just my experience.
Glad this worked for you, but I found it much better to first install the valve spring & cap, then compress the valve spring assembly, and THEN install the little rubber o-ring, then locks, and then release the spring compressor.
I found from experience, that installation of the o-ring prior to compressing the spring & cap usually resulted in pushing the o-ring out of the groove in the valve, and pushing it down further on the valve stem.
Just my experience.
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Re: Crane valve guide seals ?? (johnnyc)
Thanks for the response guys, I'm going to order the Crane seals today. My car has never been apart, with 70,000 miles on it, I'm sure the factory O-rings are toast. Hopefully I will have the same results as 72Shark. Take care.