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Old 12-24-2001, 02:20 PM
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daniel77350
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Default POR-15

Where do I get this? and is it really the miracle that everyone makes it out to be? I want to do my engine block, frame, and radiator support with it.

Daniel
Old 12-24-2001, 02:24 PM
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82dukman
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Default Re: POR-15 (daniel77350)

Here's the website http://www.por15.com
The stuff is great, I used it to clean up the inside of my dors and it can be painted over with no probelm.
Hope this helps. :seeya
Old 12-24-2001, 02:41 PM
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GTR1999
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Default Re: POR-15 (daniel77350)

I have used it on the front and rear suspension parts,frame, rear end crossmember, gas tank straps,etc. It works good but read up on it BEFORE opening the can. If you want spray it then the only safe way is to have a fresh air system and mask- a regular respirator WILL NOT protect you from the cyclo's ,(long chemical name for death),. I know a guy who did just that-sprayed a small amount without anything- he ended up in the emergency room real fast because he couldn't breath.
With that said, what I do is brush it on and use a respirator and fan when doing it. The fan is directed st the container of paint to blow the fumes away from me. I clean the section , then use the metal ready to etch the surface, then the gloss black base coat, and if the part will be exposed to sunlight then I top coat it with either the Metal mask or black top coat. It takes a while for all the this to complete but it looks great afterwards and should protect for years - I hope! I use those throw away brushes you can get a a swap meet or flea market, latex gloves, and cardboard on the bench surface. This stuff will not come off of your skin for days so take your time. Wear eye protection if you're under the car painting up on the frame too.
Good luck,
Gary
Old 12-24-2001, 02:45 PM
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daniel77350
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Default Re: POR-15 (gtr1999)

can I use it on engine block and exaust manifolds?

Daniel
Old 12-24-2001, 03:08 PM
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82dukman
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Default Re: POR-15 (daniel77350)

I'm not sure. Check out the web page I gave you. I would use Eastwood products to do my block and manifords if were my car. http://www.eastwoodco.com
Old 12-24-2001, 03:10 PM
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NJ74STINGRAY
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Default Re: POR-15 (Ed T)

hi,another thing to remember is like gtr1999 said is to read the directions real good and make sure you SEAL the can properly.ONce it gets hard its garbage.>STW< Frank :flag
Old 12-24-2001, 04:59 PM
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Monty
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Default Re: POR-15 (daniel77350)

Por-15 makes a special engine enamel for engine blocks, available in a 'rainbow' of colors. As for the exhaust manifolds, they offer a hi-temp aluminum paint that is good for 1400F. I've never used it on exhaust manifolds though, but it holds up real nice on brake calipers (where other paints yellow and flake off).
Old 12-24-2001, 08:07 PM
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1980 razz
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Default Re: POR-15 (Monty)

the por 15 i used was for exhaust manifolds..it worked so good i did my mufflers and pipes with it...
Old 12-25-2001, 01:11 AM
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Default Re: POR-15 (Monty)

Sounds to me like I will use something else since only my wife benefits if I kick the bucket. :lol: :lol: :lol: then I would be a :blueangel:
Old 12-25-2001, 09:01 AM
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Jughead
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Default Re: POR-15 (LT1driver)

I used it on my front suspension components and frame. I used their exhaust manifold paint too. Great stuff. Don't let it dry on your skin...then it'll have to wear off! :yesnod: Their catalog states that it should be top-coated, otherwise UV rays affect the coating. I did my own little test over a year ago on a rusty backetball pole. Well I didn't top coat it and the POR-15 on the pole looks like I just painted it yesterday.
Old 12-25-2001, 12:14 PM
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Nomad78SA
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Default Re: POR-15 (1970 Stingray)

I used it on my frame to seal it and it work great. The fumes were very strong in my garage though. I brushed it on and sprayed a coat of chassis black over it.
Neil in tenn
Old 12-27-2001, 02:20 AM
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LemansBlue68
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Default Re: POR-15 (daniel77350)

I've had inconsistent results with the semi-gloss POR15. Sometimes it flattens out nicely and sometimes it's just as shiny as the gloss black stuff. I haven't figured out why it does that. The stuff is tuff as a rock when its cured, though. My recommendation is to use the gloss black stuff and topcoat it with a chassis black if that's the look you're going for. Don't wait too long to topcoat it or the new paint won't stick. A friend of mine likes to use the silver and topcoat it with chassis black. He claims that he's never had an adhesion problem doing it this way, plus with the contrasting colors, it's easier to see places that get missed.

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