jimbr

Howdy and Happy Holidays....

My 1970 under goes major surgery on the 26th--- not sure how long it will take -- dpeend on what I end up missing.... Question: an Edelbrock Performer AirGap Manifold is soon to arrive (UPS has it somewhere). Is there something to spary on this thing to protect it if it is left unpainted? With the "air gap" not sure how easy it would be to paint or if I should.

Car is getting:
Dart Iron Eagle Heads - large valves, 200cc intake runners, 64cc chambers
Scorpion Full Roller Rockers on 7/16" studs
Edelbrock Performer AirGap Manifold
Edelbrock carb
Ceramic coated headers

Have not yet selected taller valve covers.... Have not decided it current distributor w/pertonix ignitor will be sufficient - probably will put it back on.

So far - I've removed the front section of the exhaust pipes and started it as-is just to hear what it sounded like (since I have to drive to the muffler shop with open headers :D )

Thanks,
Jim

rob75383

Are you sure you want to leave it unfinished??
Why not paint it to match the motor??
I wasn't able to reach everything with the paintbrush, but I did make sure that none of the unpainted areas are visible ( unless you pull the intake, and use a mirror).
When I purchased mine, it had an Edelbrock performer on it, and it got ugly quickly. The previous owner must've just installed it, or had it 'blasted before he sold it to me. Over the next year, the intake started to get these sickly, patchy grey areas (my guess is from either the humidity or pollution). My polished zinc Holley carb lost its shine within six months too!

(shameless product plug to follow)
I can't stop flappin' my gums about how much I enjoy POR-15 engine paint.
For $40 bucks, it has degreaser, etching fluid, base-coat, top-coat, gloves, and brushes. You will want to buy extra brushes, of differant sizes, and get some extra latex gloves too.
Here is a picture of mine...


You will be better off by painting the intake and block together, in my opinion, because I don't know how close the orange POR-15 will match the factory orange. But, with everything on the motor, it wont be too noticeable.
Happy Holidays to all!! :seeya

jpread

You could have it clear anodized. It should hold up pretty well. This will prevent the aluminum from oxidizing as well as prevent staining. Its the same process used to make a lot of an style fittings red, blue etc. They just won't dip it in the dye stage of the process. It does tend to darken the aluminum a little. It should be pretty easy to find a plater to do it locally. It is also best to do it when new, or close to it, before oxidation and staining has begun.
Powder coating or some other electrostatic coating might be a option as well.

mrvette

There are many better options, but if you want something Quick Down and Dirty.....use Krylon Crystal Clear.....several light coats.....last a long time....

GENE

GTR1999

Not sure about the air gap, but the performer I bought last year was clear coated at Edelbrock. Maybe the airgap is too??
Gary

Tim H

I have an RPM intake and have no problems at all with it being dirty or changing colors.
If a little gas drips on it or just something lands on it I just use carb cleaner and a tooth brush and it cleans right up.
I wouldn't clear it cause you will have a yellow intake after so long.
When an intake is new it is very grainy after awhile I think the air from the fan smooths it out.
I like the idia of painting it the motor color also.

carlmb

I have had good luck using VHT high temp clear. It is good to 1200 degrees and have not had one discolor or turn yellow. Makes for easy cleanup.

ZD75blue

why not polish it?

we need to year Ylose's comment, he hand did his air gap, and it looks great

ZD

MotorHead

I was just going to ask the same question, I know the Air Gap also comes polished form Edelbrock and I'm sure they have to hand polish it too.

What is involved in doing this or how is it done ?

Barry's70LT1

Hi Jim..
I used Tremclad clear. It was painted in 1996 and shows no sign of lifting
or going off color. As previously mentioned, I would think any good clear
would work.
Simple and easy. Surface must be very clean.

Barry

MotorHead

Barry's70LT1 --> was that a high heat clear or just there normal stuff ?

Barry's70LT1

No, it was just the regular stuff. I've also used it on the aluminum wheels
of my wife's car. Seems to stay on very, very well.

Techno

Generally you can't anodize cast aluminum parts, partly because they are more grainy(for color), mostly because they have a higher silicon content than other aluminum.

I don't know how the heat would affect the plastic for powder coating since it is melted on. Or how the heat would affect the clear coat of a 2 -part paint.

I am planning on polishing all the aluminum on my boat and spraying with candy apple with a catylized clear coat.
I did my own anodizing and it is pretty easy, my results were always satin finish because of the process. The die faded and sometimes came out splotchy. Black apparently is an exception to this. Clear is simply done without a dye.
I want a polished red transparent finish. Others have said they painted aluminum rims with clear and it stuck, since candy colors are clear it should work.

Aluminum is an easy material to work, easier than maple wood. It's only draw back is it clogs the abrasives or other tool but is still very easy to smooth and polish. Scoth-brite rolls, flap sanders and a buff will do the job on either steel or aluminum. Much faster than the "kits" of spiral sanding rolls. I would also skip the small dremel and use a die grinder. Flap wheels are used in a drill.
I did my intake and have to give it a quick re-buff every year to get it shiny again. I would like to try the clear coat on this to eliminate that.

jimbr

Thanks everyone.... I think I'm going for paint - heads and manifold will match and be sparkling clean.... I'm not taking the block out of the car unless I find a suprise... plug #1 had a bit of carbon on it :confused: .... yes, I started on the car yesterday.... could not sleep just thinking about it! Just took some digital photos of all the vacuum hoses, etc., so I have a chance at getting it al back together... not sure about a couple things yet, so I'll posting back in a couple days.... Well, I'm off to run errands and get some felpro gaskets...

Happy Holidays Everyone!

Jim

INTIMIDATOR ZO6

Try, Krylon #1401 Bright Silver worked and matched perfect :yesnod: I think you'll be very happy and surprised :cool:


[Modified by Intimidator454, 2:18 PM 12/24/2001]

DaveP

You can also get it jet-hot coated (about $200) in any of the current finishes, and it will match your headers!