photoguy

I am thinking of painting my rail covers myself. Have any of you done this? If so, do I need a heat resistant paint or will Krylon do the trick?

Thanks guys.

photoguy

CQRT

Krylon's just fine . . .and you may want to use an adhesion promoter in addition to primer. Some have scuffed them up first, others have sanded them smooth.

There have been quite a few detailed posts with pictures and paint brands over the past few months - you can probably find them using the search function within the "general" forum for more details.

Good luck -

cclive

Make sure to use paint for plastic....Krylon Fusion for plastic, Rust Oleum Plastic paint etc....the heat is not a problem. Clean the parts well with a good solvent.

MADinAK

I just finished mine last week. I first sanded them with 220 grit to get them to where they were fairly smooth. Also they were yellow when I started - bought off the forum here. After sanding, I washed them several times to get all the dirt and crap off. I then primered them with two coats of grey primer, followed by 3 coats of Machine Silver Metalic (also know as Light Tarnished Metalic). I then put on three coats of clear coat and installed my acryllic letters which I bought from Zips. I still need to polish them out but I needed to get them off my workbench before they got scratched. I've only had them on a week so not sure how they will hold up to the heat. I used a rattle can for everything. The Machine Silver Metallic I bought from our local Carquest Auto Parts store. They mixed it up and put it in a rattle can while I waited. It's an easy project but take your time.

Good luck with yours.

Salt

Great question, I've been wondering the same thing, MAD. thanks for showing your FRC's they look great, I'll be doing mine soon thanks for the details, Salt

C6Rocks!

Me too - Anyone have a link for a thorough step by step process? All I get when I search are threads which are very vague and I really want to do it right. A friend tried it and it chipped all over and now is a complete mess!

(One more thing - if I screw up, whats the easiest and best way to get the paint off?)

MADinAK

I forgot one thing.....I used a tack cloth between every coat. Also, if anything like a speck of dust got caught in the wet paint I used some 2000 grit (after it dried) and very lightly sanded to get it out before I sprayed another coat. I did this in my garage so it wasn't exactly a professional paint environment. I had none of the so called "orange peel' after spraying the paint - it all came from the clear coat. I'll rub them out with 2000 and then polish them up soon. I have some Turtle Wax Swirl and Scratch Remover that does a great job after light sanding. Go easy with the sanding or you'll be into the paint before you know it. I found this out when I painted my CHMSL housing and door handles to match my comp grey wheels.

MADinAK

I use 220 grit sand paper to fix any mistakes.

C6Rocks!

After each time you sanded, what did you use to clean the dust with? JUST the cloth or did you also use a solvent or liquid of some kind...?

danl72

Looks great.

MADinAK

I only sanded between coats if I saw a piece of dirt or something in the paint. I'm talking about a very small speck and I only sanded the small speck. A couple times back and forth with the 2000 grit made it disappear. I then ran the tack cloth over it lightly.

cclive

They look just great and I think they will hold up well because you were very attentive to detail. Let the engine heat bake them for a couple of weeks before color sanding and polishing. Wet 2000 grit should work great for getting rid of the orange peel....just don't overdo it...a little orange peel on an FRC isn't going to be noticeable anyway...
Nice job!!

MADinAK

I felt them the first time after taking it out for a drive and they were very warm. My thoughts at the time were this is a good thing as it will allow everything to thoroughly dry before sanding. I think I'll wait another week and lightly touch them up with the 2000.

It sure does **** you off though to have a nice paint job and everything is perfect until you put on the clear coat. The orange peel appears right before your eyes.

I'm no expert at this but am learning through trial and error and having fun doing it at the same time. If it doesn't look good the first time a little sand paper fixes the mistakes.

C6Rocks!

Where did the "How to" section go? This kinda info would be great to have. I'd really like to see a step by step set of instructions...

daveboy

Krylon worked for me. Cleaned the FRCs with soap and water, then alcohol. No sanding, no priming. Just shot the paint on in several thin coats. Then I applied vinyl letters. Applying the letters was the hard part.

daveboy

Mike Raines

[QUOTE=CQRT;1565500734]Krylon's just fine . . .and you may want to use an adhesion promoter in addition to primer. Some have scuffed them up first, others have sanded them smooth.

What is the right color for Torch Red?
Krytrons?

Turbo6TA

Not Krytrons ...

It's 'Krylon'

'Krylon' is a brand name of canned spray paint



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Krylon brand 'Fusion' (for painting plastic) color chart:



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jdvann

I recently did my radiator top shroud and fuse box cover. I purchased body color paint from the local automotive paint store with a can of plastic adhesion promoter.

Bruze

Isnt' "Krytons" some sort of weird space aliens with three eyes or sumpin'?

FWIW: Whoever is doing this, you don't need an exact match to the body color. If it's close, nobody will be able to tell.