norvalwilhelm

I just finished my 6 link suspension and had the trailing arms off for rebuilding, checking and to weld the top mount on for the 6 link. Years ago I modified the arms to accept 305 tires. I added the inner radius first and mig welding it into place. The original inner surface was never cut. I then cut the outer wall, the one closest to the tire and added a outer radius so my trailing arms have 3 vertical walls instead of 2. The original inner is totally intact with the 3 vertical side being the inside. The spring mounts are also moved inboard about 1 1/2 inches per side to fit the shortened spring. The top arm for the 6 link is 1 inch hex with a section turned round for looks . The rod ends are left and right 5/8th fine.

Frank75

Hey Norval,

Just saw this after posting to your other topic. How did you mount the inner rods? Looks good.

norvalwilhelm

Frank 75. Look at the 6 link post. I ended up welding a nice mount to the cross member. I tried various mounts bolted to the rear end and discarded them. I spent hours machining them and didn't like the results. I thought if the rear is mounted solid to the crossmember and the mount is mounted solid to the rear end why not eliminate the mount on the rear and go directly to the crossmember. I am a good welder and the mount would be alot simpler just welded on. Very rigid and simple. I did 4 trial mounts with defletion tests before I got one that went through the full travel without changing the protractor reading.
I do research in a lab and we learn to trust nothing we can't prove. I do all my own machining, I don't trust anything and always check and double check. If my mind is not positive I test and retest until it is.

norvalwilhelm

ED T. I agree that is look like alot of curves but the back wall, the one furthest from the tire is original. I just added a curved back to it and left the existing stock wall intact and just buryed it. The front wall is cut out and a new curve is layed in and it touches the back wall. The trailing arm has now 3 complete thicknesses where the curve is. It is also much stiffer and the alignment is maintained because the back was added on before any cutting took place. It acted as it's own jig. I can completely fill the wheel well without swingarm clearance problems. I have run these arms minus the upper strut rod for at least 10 years without problems.

427V8

Be Utifull!

I so badly want a 6 link! :cry

norvalwilhelm

Keith Thank you for the compliment. I know you have the skill required to build a 6 link. It is simple. If you can design and build a brake caliper mount this is alot simpler.
Lying under the car and watch the suspension move without any camber change and the freedom with which the half shafts move in and out and they rotate effortless regardless of positon I can't see why the factory didn't do it. Look at that little C clip and think how it holds your wheel on. It is scary. My 2 strut arms look alot stronger and toe change is effortless. Something I can lay underneath and change in a minute
Have a nice day Keith

StingrayRacing

Looks great!!!

BTW, I used to have 295.50's with the VB offset trailing arms on 15 x 8 rims.

with my 27 x 11.50 slicks I find the frame above where the T-arm to be the next source of interference, next being the frame rail on top.

norvalwilhelm

ED T They should be stronger then stock with the triple wall. I saw this modification in a GM corvette manual on setting the corvette up for racing. They did warn about possible torque steer if you are not careful on jigging before cutting and welding so I did it slowly by adding the pieces before cutting to maintain alignment. I have had more problems since I went with the blower. My much quicker nitrous motor never had the handling problems I seem to be have now. My nitrous motor was a top end motor, my blower motor makes increditable low end power. I makes for problems out of the hole.
Have a nice day