C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Side Pipe Covers

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 12-09-2001, 09:11 PM
  #1  
lvrpool32
Safety Car
Thread Starter
 
lvrpool32's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jan 2001
Location: Norwalk Ct
Posts: 3,637
Likes: 0
Received 27 Likes on 18 Posts

Default Side Pipe Covers

I just purchased the fibreglass replica sidepipe covers and have a question about installing them.
They are not as long as the factory rocker panels, so which end is left short? Do I have to trim the "lip" at the bottom of the front fenders to where the front of the cover starts?
It would help if someone could do me a real big favor and post/send me a picture of how the cover looks at the front edge and the back edge.
Any help would be gratefully recieved.

cheers
Nick


[Modified by lvrpool32, 7:12 PM 12/9/2001]
Old 12-09-2001, 09:41 PM
  #2  
Binnie77
Drifting
 
Binnie77's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jan 2001
Location: Halifax, NS, Canada
Posts: 1,841
Received 3 Likes on 2 Posts

Default Re: Side Pipe Covers (lvrpool32)

Yes, you need to trim the lip at the front, about an inch and a half back. Take a look at this picture.

Old 12-10-2001, 09:20 AM
  #3  
73 Teach's Pet
Instructor
 
73 Teach's Pet's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jan 2000
Location: Tyrone, Pa
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Re: Side Pipe Covers (Binnie77)

I have written numerous posts on putting fiberglass covers and chambered exhaust mid year pipes on a C3, do some searching, but the short of the long, is hang your pipes first, then position your glass pipe covers so that the exhaust tips exit in a position that you want them to in relation to the glass cover. I had the same dilemna to solve. By first hanging the pipe, then positioning the cover, you have a greater chance of the entire package visually working out. With your method of assembly you run the risk of being sorely disappointed in the relationship of the two exhaust pieces, also your pipes may be too close or rub your covers where the exhaust exits from under the cover, if you attach the cover first,then the exhaust pipes.
I also lined my glass covers with header wrap, which I attached to the glass cover with a light coating of fiberglass gel. I used a light coating so as not to have the header wrap absorb too much of the gel coat and render it ineffective. I used mid year chambered exhaust pipes because they allow a larger air gap around the exhaust pipe, thus disappating heat better and mimizing the chance of your glass cover paint from blistering due to the high heat temperatures.
I did most of the trimming of the body from the front fender. I used a photo of the pipes on an original C3, but without the covers as a guide to how the fenders of an original car were trimmed. I did add plywood filler strips to the recessed area that was hollowed out behind where my mounting screws would pass through the covers. This does not allow the cover to squish and crack or break. I have seen other glass covers were hideously short and mishappened, when compared to mine. I have no idea who made the set I bought, because they were acquired at fall Carlisle for $30. They have some chips, but glass is easy to fix and saving $250 is my kind of wise buy. I used interior trim screws that have the built in washer attached to the them because I didn't want to risk the screws pulling through the covers and breaking them. If you paint the covers flat black at the top, like the originals illustrated in the above photo, the screw heads and attached washers are not that noticable. I did not use the original stainless side trim mounting locations. I suggest that you use anti-seize on your hardware so that they do not rust to the steel rocker panels so you don't have problems removing them in the future.
My covers did not fit the contour of the body very well and had to be sanded down in some areas, and built up in others. Not to be derrogatorily critical of Binnies' covers, but you can see how they do not fit the contour of the body well in his close up photo of the front fender. This is evident where the flat black line meets up the three vertical lines, under the fender. These are recessed structural ribs in body. I had the same fit problem and wanted a better fit than would be obtainable if I just bolted them on, which is why I worked my covers more. Once again, that is not a cut on Binnie's car or workmanship, but an example that is at hand to illustrate how much the glass covers needed trimmed and how much work you have ahead of you if you want them to look factory. I painted my covers Argent silver. The same spray can silver color that the factory steel wheels are painted. This way the covers match the wheels and do not look out of place at all. I also painted the flat black cove at the top, but did not take the time to stripe them because I need to go back and do some better finish work for the final fitting. Currently, my covers are roughed out and look great from 10 feet , but the chipped ribs still need fixed and the rest of the car painted, etc. so for effect I took some time in creating a decent illusion of a factory side pipes.


[Modified by 73 Teach's Pet, 10:47 AM 12/10/2001]


[Modified by 73 Teach's Pet, 11:34 AM 12/10/2001]

Get notified of new replies

To Side Pipe Covers




Quick Reply: Side Pipe Covers



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:39 PM.