lbell101

Hi!

I started a new project this morning. A front end rebuild. I've got everything off of the underneath now with the exception of the tie rods and upper a-arms. It's break time (maybe even nap time) now. Looking at the upper a-arms, it looks like that damn fan shroud is gonna be in the way. Also the p/s pump on the drivers side. Someone please tell me I don't have to take this stuff off to get the a-arms off! Or should I just take them off first?
Thanks!

Chuck Gongloff

Remove the upper A frame studs, then you can pull the A frame off without messing with the shroud. Try to loosen the studs first. Use a wrench...they won't come out because they're "gnurled" but a wrench will loosen them. Put the nuts back on the ends and beat on them too. Then take a 3 inch "C" clamp. Put a socket over the head of the stud, and press the stud out. Just did this a month or so ago. Hope this helps. Use a pickle fork to remove the tie rods, etc. Chuck

lbell101

Thanks Guys!
I think I'll try the press out method.
I just did all the radiator and shroud work a couple weeks ago so everything there is all new including the support. I just really don't wanna take it out again :cry
Thanks!

lbell101

I don't know what's different about mine but I was just barely able to finagle those a-arms out without removing the shroud or studs. Yaaahoooo! :D

theandies

It may be because you have the base 350 with a 4 speed and no AC. You do have the big oilcan looking fan shroud, correct? I will be happy if you do that means when I do my suspension rebuild I will be able to remove the upper a arms without taking that damn thing out again (did radiator/support thing last year).
John

lbell101

Hi John!

Yep - that's my configuration.
It's still tight to work on especially on the drivers side with the alternator, p/s pump, and radiator hose in the way. The passenger side front of the a-arm actually hits the shroud on the way out slightly - it's that close!
My headers made my idler arm much more difficult to get out though.

Techno

If you have problems getting the bushings out of the A-arms, try using a pipe wrench on the flange of the bushing and screw them out.
I've tried all the methods and used this out of desperation. It worked so well I will never use the press method or cut or burn method again.

Tom454

If/when you install new bushings, it is advisable to either use the correct tools, or fabricate some. The A-arms can be easily bent during this operation. The tools support the a-frame ears so that you don't bend them all out of shape. I have seen a lot of "bubba-fied" a-arms because people did not take the time to read the service manual and just went out to the barn to get a bigger hammer. After you have installed your new bushings, the shafts should turn with very light torque inside the new bushings. If they are hard to turn, you bent the a-arms. The operation was a success, but the patient died.

lbell101

Thanks Guys!

My bushings actually came out pretty easy just pressing them out with a vise and a little jig to get around the mounting bar.
I haven't thought about the install yet. I think I should be able to use the same method. I've had similar GM bushings installed locally quite a few times (at different shops) and they always come back with hammer marks and the edges bent up. I'll build a new jig if I have to to keep the pressures contained in the hole area. I'm sure that I can do better than the local shops!