bence13_33

The head bolts that I pulled off of the LS4 engine are pretty rusted and I don't feel like chancing it. Could I in theory take the head bolts to Lowe's and match them up with some Grade 8 bolts of the same size, or is this a no-no? I can't really see any reason why this wouldn't be work.

Gordonm

No you need to have specific lengths and specific hardness. Lowes bolts are cheap low grade bolts. Don't be penny wise and dollar foolish. You are spending good money on the motor get some good head bolts. I used ARP they are pricey but I have no worries about them. I would not risk it


[Modified by Gordonm, 6:53 PM 12/7/2001]

79er

Buy some ARP bolts they are worth it.

clem zahrobsky

becareful of aftermarket bolts as they may be longer than stock because they are used with washers and if you do not use the washers the bolts may bottom out before they are torqued up to specs, :chevy


[Modified by clem zahrobsky, 7:12 PM 12/7/2001]

bence13_33

I guess I'll just spend the extra money and get the ARP bolts. Thanks for the input all.

Stingy74

Bence, these guys are right. By all means, get the right bolts!! I bought ARP head bolts specific for my Brodix heads. They were expensive, but also not an area you want to skimp on.

The Dude

Another vote for the ARPs. You do not want to be securing a critical component with hardware store stuff. A little pricey? Relatively, but worth every penny.

gkull

If your really going to work on motors. studs are the only way to go! I have studded nearly everything. It's money, but I never think about this or that getting loose. I hope that you own your vette as long as me. I've had lean years and women and other cars have come and gone. But my old Vette keeps :) I bought it new and I never have a late model with $600+ car payment to keep up. I payed cash for my 79 L82 with less than 2 miles on it.

Tom454

I agree that studs are the best.... but sometimes you can't use them. For examples, on a LS5 with A/C, the passenger side lower rear bolt cannot be completely removed until the head is slid forward... this prevents studs from being used. Other cars have power brake interference. You have to make sure you have head remove/install clearance if you want to use studs. Otherwise you have to pull the engine to remove/install the heads. It can also be a little more difficult to remove heads that have studs because you cannot "rock" the head to help break the gasket free. But studs definitely rule.

On the hardware store bolt issue... as posted, the length is critical. Also, correct bolts have the head ground perfectly perpendicular to the shank for even clamping pressure. Hardware store bolts are not machined to this degree of accuracy, even though they may be of the proper grade. Hardware store bolts will usually have a slight taper under the head as well. Technically, if you cut them to the proper length, you could *maybe* get away with using them. But then... we would have to call you Bubba. :)

clem zahrobsky

unless you are running very high compression or take the heads off and on frequently studs are not needed. i have built BB blower boat engines with 800+ HP and head bolts work fine. the only real case for studs is a chevy 400 block because of the closeness of the bolt holes to the bores. :chevy

ram82fire

If you want good clamping power studs are the trick !! Nuff sed

Rockn-Roll

Well, Lowe's does have some good grade bolts (Home Depot and other hardware stores can't compare to Lowe's), and even some actual automotive bolts. I just saw some body mount bolts 1/4" x 20 x 3/4" which hold the rear bumper onto the frame.

However, as others have pointed out although the bolts are of proper grade they are for industrial and construction purposes and not machined to a degree necessary for high torque and precision purposes like head bolts. As I mentioned Lowe's does have some automotive bolts, but I did not see any that were long enough for head bolts.