Can't find Shell Rotella 5w-40
#1
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Can't find Shell Rotella 5w-40
anyone know either a website or mail order where I can get this--no place around me, either auto parts, warehouse (Costco, etc) or on line has produced a supplier for this. Need it for a completely rebuilt '58 that will be fired up within a month. Can find the 15w, just not 5w.
thanks
thanks
#3
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15W-40 works well for our older flat tappet engines. Oil pressure may be higher (especially on a cold engine), but that is not a "problem". Just don't "get on it" until it has warmed up (as with any engine).
There is a Rotella T synthetic 5W-40. See it here:
http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?...ellasynth.html
Probably need to go to a (Shell) truck stop to get it.
Plasticman
Last edited by Plasticman; 03-08-2008 at 11:02 AM.
#4
Melting Slicks
Any quality certified major brand oil will be fine for your initial start up. But, you need to go to a GM dealer and buy EOS, (Engine Oil Suppliment) and add it to your crankcase oil. I would prefer the 15-40 to the 5-40 as it will circulate and splash more readily. The EOS contains all the good stuff like Zinc that you are looking for with our Flat Tappet designed engines. Check out "Bobistheoilguy.com" for a better technical explaination. Al W.
BTW, stay away from a Synthetic oil during engine break in as the lubrication properties are too great for the friction wear that is neccesary during break in to occurr.
BTW, stay away from a Synthetic oil during engine break in as the lubrication properties are too great for the friction wear that is neccesary during break in to occurr.
Last edited by 67vetteal; 03-08-2008 at 11:39 AM.
#5
Race Director
Steve:
I have seen Rotella 5W-40 synthetic oil at Walmart, NAPA, and Advance stores in this area. I would check similar stroes in your area. I am almost certain that NAPA or Advance would special order for you if you asked them. But you may have to buy a case if you go the special order route.
However, as others have said, I would NOT recommend this oil for initial engine break-in. I would either use a straight weight oil (20W-20 or 30 wt. depending on temperature) or the regular Rotella 15W-40; PLUS a can of GM EOS (Engine Oil Supplement). As I understand, GM recently re-introduced the EOS, so it is available. The new part number is #88862586.
Also be certain to pre-lube the engine with the oil pump before trying to start.
Larry
I have seen Rotella 5W-40 synthetic oil at Walmart, NAPA, and Advance stores in this area. I would check similar stroes in your area. I am almost certain that NAPA or Advance would special order for you if you asked them. But you may have to buy a case if you go the special order route.
However, as others have said, I would NOT recommend this oil for initial engine break-in. I would either use a straight weight oil (20W-20 or 30 wt. depending on temperature) or the regular Rotella 15W-40; PLUS a can of GM EOS (Engine Oil Supplement). As I understand, GM recently re-introduced the EOS, so it is available. The new part number is #88862586.
Also be certain to pre-lube the engine with the oil pump before trying to start.
Larry
#7
Race Director
EOS is primary used to coat the cam/lifters when installing new ones. It states on the bottle that it is not an additive to the crankcase. Stick with the Rotella 15-40w and it will be fine.
#8
Instructor
the correct oil additive
you can also buy some quality 10-30 Wt oil such as Chevron
then add a bottle of additive www.zddplus.com the website tells the story ..You than come close to or surpass the formulation of oil 40 years ago.. a box of 6 bottles was on sale for $50 recently .. had some emails back and forth with vendor..
EOS is available from GM as mentionned about $9-10 a bottle even half a bottle will likely put the extra zinc etc in to protect against cam and bearing wear.
then add a bottle of additive www.zddplus.com the website tells the story ..You than come close to or surpass the formulation of oil 40 years ago.. a box of 6 bottles was on sale for $50 recently .. had some emails back and forth with vendor..
EOS is available from GM as mentionned about $9-10 a bottle even half a bottle will likely put the extra zinc etc in to protect against cam and bearing wear.
#9
Though a little dated... an excellent tech paper on the subject
and some zinc/phosphorus comparison charts between oil brands.
http://www.ibmwr.org/otech/oilreport.html
and some zinc/phosphorus comparison charts between oil brands.
http://www.ibmwr.org/otech/oilreport.html
#10
Better make sure the Rotella is CI4 spec and not CJ4, the later, reduced Zinc variety that is on the shelves now. Add a bottle of Comp Cams break-in oil additive to the mix. That's what it's for. And, you'll want to install their break-in valve springs for the initial start-up just to be safe. For an additional 100 bucks you can have your flat-tappet cam Nitrided by comp so it's ready to go.
#11
Race Director
you can also buy some quality 10-30 Wt oil such as Chevron
then add a bottle of additive www.zddplus.com the website tells the story ..You than come close to or surpass the formulation of oil 40 years ago.. a box of 6 bottles was on sale for $50 recently .. had some emails back and forth with vendor..
EOS is available from GM as mentionned about $9-10 a bottle even half a bottle will likely put the extra zinc etc in to protect against cam and bearing wear.
then add a bottle of additive www.zddplus.com the website tells the story ..You than come close to or surpass the formulation of oil 40 years ago.. a box of 6 bottles was on sale for $50 recently .. had some emails back and forth with vendor..
EOS is available from GM as mentionned about $9-10 a bottle even half a bottle will likely put the extra zinc etc in to protect against cam and bearing wear.
#12
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You know, I found this interesting. I happen to have 2 bottles of the "old" E.O.S and 2 bottles of the "new" E.O.S. The "old" bottles DO NOT state ZINC or, for that matter, the makeup of its contents. This is under GM#1052367.
The "new" E.O.S., under GM#88862586 DOES state its contents. They are:
Mineral Oil Blend
Calcium Sufanate-CAS#71486-79-8
Zinc Dialkyldthiophosphate-CAS#68649-42-3
Polyisobutene-CAS#9003-27-4
As a side bar on this, I recall paying about $8.00 each for the "old", over the counter at the part department (Chevy or Pontiac dealer).
I paid $19.09 EACH at my local Pontiac dealer 3 months ago.
Curious, I just did a search on EBAY using the "old" GM part # and wallah. Click here and you can buy up to 12 16 ounce bottles at slightly less than the "new" GM part # price.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GM-EO...spagenameZWDVW
Jim
The "new" E.O.S., under GM#88862586 DOES state its contents. They are:
Mineral Oil Blend
Calcium Sufanate-CAS#71486-79-8
Zinc Dialkyldthiophosphate-CAS#68649-42-3
Polyisobutene-CAS#9003-27-4
As a side bar on this, I recall paying about $8.00 each for the "old", over the counter at the part department (Chevy or Pontiac dealer).
I paid $19.09 EACH at my local Pontiac dealer 3 months ago.
Curious, I just did a search on EBAY using the "old" GM part # and wallah. Click here and you can buy up to 12 16 ounce bottles at slightly less than the "new" GM part # price.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GM-EO...spagenameZWDVW
Jim
Last edited by 6T5RUSH; 03-08-2008 at 09:33 PM. Reason: Added EBAY web site
#13
Melting Slicks
anyone know either a website or mail order where I can get this--no place around me, either auto parts, warehouse (Costco, etc) or on line has produced a supplier for this. Need it for a completely rebuilt '58 that will be fired up within a month. Can find the 15w, just not 5w.
thanks
thanks
Too bad you don't live closer to me. I am down at the Shell Oil Supplier just about every week or so picking up automotive lube oil in drums for resale in my business. I am sure they have what you are looking for.
Fred
#14
Melting Slicks
I assume you lubed all your parts during the assembly process...all we ever did when we started up our race engine is fill the oil filter up then install it..fill the engine with a good racing oil.....pre lube the engine and build up oil pressure for about a minute or two....make sure your timing is on the money...start the engine up..checking for leaks..etc..and bring the rpms up to about 2 grand and leave it there for a while..checking again for leaks..keeping an eye on the guages..warm that motor up completely....a few good revs...and then a shutdown...then drain the oil and filter and repeat the filling process...we did not use any additives..we must have done something right we held two national records with our 57 in modified production...just my nickels worth...
#15
Team Owner
you can also buy some quality 10-30 Wt oil such as Chevron
then add a bottle of additive www.zddplus.com the website tells the story ..You than come close to or surpass the formulation of oil 40 years ago.. a box of 6 bottles was on sale for $50 recently .. had some emails back and forth with vendor..
EOS is available from GM as mentionned about $9-10 a bottle even half a bottle will likely put the extra zinc etc in to protect against cam and bearing wear.
then add a bottle of additive www.zddplus.com the website tells the story ..You than come close to or surpass the formulation of oil 40 years ago.. a box of 6 bottles was on sale for $50 recently .. had some emails back and forth with vendor..
EOS is available from GM as mentionned about $9-10 a bottle even half a bottle will likely put the extra zinc etc in to protect against cam and bearing wear.
#16
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anyone know either a website or mail order where I can get this--no place around me, either auto parts, warehouse (Costco, etc) or on line has produced a supplier for this. Need it for a completely rebuilt '58 that will be fired up within a month. Can find the 15w, just not 5w.
thanks
thanks
#18
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#19
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anyone know either a website or mail order where I can get this--no place around me, either auto parts, warehouse (Costco, etc) or on line has produced a supplier for this. Need it for a completely rebuilt '58 that will be fired up within a month. Can find the 15w, just not 5w.
thanks
thanks
Local Wally did not have the 5W-40 synthetic.
Plasticman
#20
Le Mans Master
John when I installed my ZZ4, a GM Tech told me not to run synthetic in it until it was broken in. He said that synthetic is too slippery to allow proper wear in. - Pat