bhawk

I want to remove my small block motor and tranny from my 70 coupe. Can I pull this as an entire unit and still clear the front of the car. I have removed radiator and rad cradle. I will use an engine crane on small casters. My manuals speak about separating motor from bell housing to remove engine. Can you share your experience in removing same.
Also, how much of the standard gearshift do I have to remove to get the tranny out with the motor, if they go as a unit.
This is my first post. The site seems very valuable.

Rowdy Rat

Yes, it most certainly can be done... I did the exact same thing with my '70 coupe about six months ago. A couple of suggestions (a few of which you have already mentioned). You have removed the hood, radiator, and radiator support... If not already done, make sure that the battery is disconnected before going any further. Also make sure that the fan and fan clutch are removed. The shifter will need to be removed (hardest part of the whole job - very little room to work). Follow the factory service manual procedure for disconnecting clutch linkage, battery cables, transmission mount, engine mounts, etc.

The only other item that I would suggest renting or purchasing is a device to tilt the engine as you move it forward. The front of the engine will need to be higher than the transmission in order to get it to clear the hood opening and keep the tail shaft from dragging on the tunnel... This little device is invaluable for that purpose.

All in all, it is a very straight forward job that can be performed by one person.

Welcome to the Forum and best of luck with your engine/transmission pull!

Gator81

Just wanted to add to the advice - the device you speak of is a "load leveler" or "tilt adjuster". I rented one from my local rent-all along with the hydraulic engine hoist when I did the engine in my old truck a few years ago. The leveler uses a long screw to shift weight front/rear when hanging from the hook in the center. It's a must-have deal for pulling the engine and trans together. As you lift on the engine, you turn the crank on the big screw so that the front of the engine is lifted more than the trans. Then you pull the hoist away from the car a little, lift a little more, tilt a little more. One guy can do it alone (I did) but a second set of hands and eyes is a much better idea!
Good luck! :seeya

BeaterShark

I removed/installed my engine and tranny as a unit in my '69. I had to position the hoist over the fender, as the nose of the car was too long for my hoist. I also had a load leveler, which without I could not have done it.

You should not have to remove the shifter, but just disconnect the shift linkages from the tranny.

71coupe

I did a removal/install the same way (eng w/trans).
I had problems with the shifter as well. If you have a Hurst shifter, do this:
Get the motor ready to pull. Put a jack under the trans & remove the trans mount assy. After you have the trans mount free, jack up the trans as high as it will go in the tunnel. Remove the shifter console plate from insider the car to access the two 9/16" bolts on the shifter handle.
Once you have the shifter handle off, the motor & trans should come right out with no problems.
Make sure you put plenty of bearing grease on the tilter's threads

GTR1999

I removed the 350 and TH400 together from the front of my 72 coupe no problem. You must have the tilter and a long boom lift. I looked for awhile to find a lift with a 5' boom finally found one at a swap meet.It is an American made lift and cost more used then the import lifts. Icouldn't find an import lift that had a 5' boom anywhere. It is 5' from the center of the car to the center of the carb mount.
Good Luck, I think a manual tranny would be easier to remove as a unit then an automatic.
Gary

vettesite

I have an automatic in my Vette and I seperated them. It wasn't hard to do. 6 bolts around the bell housing and 3 on the flywheel to torque converter. Just make sure you catch the torque converter so it doesn't get damaged and it doesn't leak all over the ground. I supported the front of the trans with a jack and lifted the engine out. I also used a tilter/leveler and it made the job much easier. It's a must.


[Modified by vettesite, 4:47 PM 12/5/2001]

73Ken73

I removed my tranny and engine seperately. It only takes about 20 more minutes to remove the tranny before the engine. Just remember that fiberglass doesn't dent it cracks. If you do remove the tranny the shifter must come out first.

Stingy74

I pulled the engine and transmission out of my 79 as a unit to get it ready for installation in the 74. It was a dangerously unbalanced situation and extreme caution was taken. One on the back wheels on the engine lift was barley touching the ground. It can be done but I can't stress enough the caution that must be taken.

70 LS1

I pulled them out together and didn't use a leveler. I used a chain bolted into the heads and picked it up near the front. I used a floor jack to support the tail shaft until the engine was high enough that the whole unit set at an angle. I found it easier to have the car about a foot in the air on jack stands first. I also installed an LS1 T56 combo the same way. If you have ever seen how big a T56 is, you wouldn't worry about a 4 speed.

One thing I didn't see mentioned. When you tip up that tranny, you will puke out a bunch of gear oil from the tail shaft.

Techno

I've pulled the engine-tranny both without a leveler and with. If you don't have one its worth getting one. It makes the re-install much easier too.
It's a good idea to take pictures but it sounds as though your past this point. If you forget any thing you have the pics.
I found it easier to move the car rather than the unstable lift. Tie a rope or something to support the drive shaft-like a cradle. You can move it back when you have the engine taken care of its easy to roll. Speaking of which, if the parking brake or tires aren't blocked the car can roll as soon as the tail shaft comes free.
With all the weight coming out, the front raises some, This requires the engine to be lifted very high.
Don't forget the hidden stuff, speedometer cable, firewall wires to the engine.

jeff batchelor

Put a plastic bag over the tail shaft with a rubber band around it to catch the oil. Jeff

jeff batchelor

Put a plastic bag over the tail shaft with a rubber band around it to catch the oil. Jeff

ksbunting

Jeff,
That is one very fine looking coupe.

Rolling Thunder

Something to consider. If you have to rent a hoist you might want to think about hiring a wrecker instead. I pulled my engine and TH400 with a hoist and it was barely long enough to clear the nose. I installed my 502 and 700R4 as a unit in 20 minutes with a wrecker (hydraulic boom) for $40. It was so much easier, and no thought of being in an overload situation.

Good Luck,
Dave