805Z06

My car is currently all gutted out. I am installing some Second Skin insulation products. I expect to finish within the next two weeks (taking my time putting on different layers of material).




I have been doing some research for audio products on this forum and online. Here is a list of products I plan to install.

Subwoofer
- JL Stealthbox


Front Speakers
- JL ZR650-CSI 2 way component system 6.5 inch (85W RMS)



Rear Speakers
- JL XR525-cxi coaxial 5.25 inch (60W RMS)



Amplifier
- JL 500/5 Hybrid Class D & Class A/B five channel system



Headunit & HU accessories
- Alpine IVA-W505
http://www.floridaspl.com/Alpine_2008.pdf
- Black Bird Nav – PMD-B200
- Ipod cable KCE-422i
- XM radio xmd1000
- Bluetooth interface module KCE-300BT











Steering wheel Control
- PAC SWI-JACK



Front speaker mounts
- 6.5 inch by nakidparts.com



Amplifier wiring kit
- JL XB-PCS4-1 (Power, ground, fuse, remote wire)



Speaker wiring kit
- JL XB-BLUSCS-12



RCA Jacks
- JL XB-BLUAIC2-9 (front & rear speaker-HU to amp)
- JL XB-BLUAIC2-9 Subwoofer (HU to amp)
- JL XB-BLUAIC2-9 & XB-Yel vic-6 (external video & audio)

Subwoofer Cable
-not sure yet

Interface module
- GMAH24B
- GMAHCM
- Or GMOS-04



Mounting kit
- double-din Metra kit #95-3304



Rear camera
- License plate frame camera, BOYO Vision VTL300



So, that was my list.

I plan on installing almost everything. The HU might take another month or two until it comes in the market. I figure, I will get as much done as possible since the car is gutted.

Here are some questions that come to mind;

1) Does my setup look right?
2) Am I missing anything from my shopping list?
3) What should I do for the interface module? I have read on so many different options. I am thinking of using just the GMOS-04. That should do it all, including the chimes. Is there any other interface module that I need? Also, any detailed DIY on the GMOS-04?
4) I was not sure about the mounting kit, but I have seen lots of people using them, so I assume that I would need it, right?
5) Any suggestions for subwoofer cable?
6) Should I purchase the sub control ***?
7) Where would be the best place to buy the JL stealthbox?
8) Would the 5ch amp, do the job, or is there a better route?
9) Amplifier installation locations, behind the passenger aftermarket seat or in the hatch?

Thanks for the input.

markcz

I just put an AVIC-D3 in my '07 using the Scosche GM09SR interface. It workd great. I was planning on using the GMAH24B & GMAHCM since others on the forum had reported how well they worked, but the place I got the D3 from gave me a great deal on all of the accessories, so I ended up with the Scosche. Until yesterday I hadn't heard anything either way concerning the GMOS-04, but then I got involved with this thread and we eventually figured out that all of his problems were due to the instructions that came with his GMOS-04. Just a warning, if you get the GMOS pay close attention to what they tell you to do with all of the wires.

The DD mounting kit is needed. There are a few different brands available, but all of the ones that I could find look the same (plastic POS). You just have to live with it unless you want to fabricate your own or sand down and repaint one that you buy.

I would imagine that you can control the sub level from the HU, so unless you find a good spot to hide the **** I'd skip it.

I used the Pioneer version of the PAC SWI-JACK on the D3, it works great. My only tip for that is to program the 1-6 button as MUTE, you won't be sorry.

Your overall system looks like it will kick some serious azz

NYC6

Looks like you did your homework. Its going to sound great.

805Z06

I just read that thread about GMOS-04.
I did a search on the Scosche GM09SR, didn't find any right ups, do you have any pics on the connection, or details?

How does programing work on the Pac SWI-JACK, does it not just control volume and channels/track?

Thanks for the advice..

805Z06

I tired doing a lot of reading here of others installs. There seems to be different routes and interfaces that are being used. I saw the Alpine head unit once with the JL speakers and it sounded really nice.

CraigE

My $.02--- I think for about the same price as the JL Stealthbox you can do much better. Boxology enclosure and Image Dynamics IDQ10v3 sub. Also I ended up disconnecting my rear speakers, they were really f-ing things up. Sounds so much better with just the doors and sub.

pentavolvo

IMO skip the rears

Kale

You should DEFINITELY keep the rear speakers....
....in the box they come in.

pentavolvo

Kale when I read the first line i was like WTF is kale saying haha

805Z06

Hold up. Are you guys serious, skip the rear speakers. I have read about this before, but I thought it was based on the OEM setup.

So you guys think that 2 fronts and a sub would be plenty and better without the rears?

Ok, let's say I do go this route. Can you guys recommend a good JL amp to power the two front speakers and JL sub. Preferably, one single amp if possible, unless two separate amps would make a big difference in quality.

Thanks

Kale

Absolutely. They will make the system louder.

But

theyll destroy any semblance of stereo imaging, theyll severely hurt sound quality, cause more cancellation.. etc etc.

pentavolvo

100% serious. Honestly the rears just mess with the soundstage. If you go with quality speakers in front then rears are a waste.

The JL 300/4 would work but it would be a bit less power to the sub.

IMO the alpine pdx 4.150 would be a much better amp and in a smaller package.

pentavolvo

I agree with what kale says they will make the car louder but u will loose sound quality. IMO you will be plenty loud enough, i cant tell you the number of vettes ive done without rear speakers with customers that were thrilled with the results

Kale

my front speakers only install, at 3/4 volume, is painful.

0BOXOLOGY

Skip the rear speakers and spend your money on your fronts with a bigger amp... works every time in a vette as the rear speaker locations are about as bad as it gets...

if you want good rear fill that doesn't pull everything back, you need to change their locations, play with the phasing, and run them in a bandpass x-over= alot of $ for some rear fill. And then when you get it just right, you put your top back there and it messes all of that work up.

As far as subs... a bigger amp on a JL 10W3V3 in a BOXOLOGY enclosure...

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e.../011008111.jpg

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e...a/DSCN2319.jpg

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/e...a/DSCN2313.jpg

Take a look a the cross-section of the enclosure: built solid, with pride. And yes, it HURT to cut one in half, but I wanted to show the guts for our quality (no fleece and bondo here!).

You get a higher-end sub in our enclosure for a lower MSRP price as your other option and our mounting system doesn't require you to drill a hole in your car for it to be secure. The BOXOLOGY enclosure in carpet is $335 plus shipping.

A louder front stage with cleaner, louder bass (W1 Vs. W3).

Thanks for your consideration.. our website updates will be finished and it will be back up very shortly with new product info. and some more pics of my old installs, until then www.scienceofsoundinc@gmail.com.

Nick Johnson, CEO
BOXOLOGY

CraigE

I too was going WTF... you recently told me "Ditch the rears". Then I read on. Good one !!
I recently went thru this and "ditching the rears" was a HUGE improvement.

markcz

I didn't know anything about the Scosche until I was about to buy it. I made sure that the one they wanted to sell me was the one I needed at http://www.scosche.com/ then just took a chance. It worked! I started with an '07 6-disc radio without onstar. You can see pics of it here. I thought I found the manual online somewhere, but can't find it now It's pretty simple to hook up, and has all of the needed wires in the proper colors (power, illum, remote amp, audio). The chimes come out of a speaker inside the interface itself, but the volume level is adjustable so it actually works and sounds pretty good.

The steering wheel buttons are all wired in parallel with just 2 wires going back to the radio, one supplies 12V from the radio (you DO need to connect switched 12V to it) the other is the return signal. Each button just has a different resistance, and the OEM radio knows what to do when it senses that resistance. The SWI-JACK monitors the wire with the resistances on it and translates you pushing the buttons into a signal that your new HU understands. Since every car company doesn't use standard resistances on all of the buttons, the unit has to be programmed when you first install it. For Alpine you can control up to 11 functions, but we only have 5 buttons. As you program the unit you can make any of the available buttons do any of the functions. Since I wanted a handy mute button I just pushed the 1-6 when I got to the mute step in the programming. Start here and you can print out C6 and Alpine specific instructions on how to program it.

805Z06

In that case, I will just setup the front speakers and leave the back blank.

805Z06

I just check it out. Very nice, clean and much smaller. This might be an easy clearance install behind the passenger rear seat (back side).

150 watts per channel should be plenty. For the front, will probably have to keep the input low. This should give the sub enough power also.



Thanks for the recommendation.

pentavolvo

its a great amp you wont be disappointed. someone even fit one in the rear cubby with some work