Capt Roy

I'm getting ready to put the ZZ383 in my 66.. I would like to make some nice fuel lines... I see the fuel line and fittings in Summit and Jegs. Is there a tool to get the fittings seated after the lines are cut.

Basically can someone tell me how to make that fuel line and what tools to buy...

When I buy a pre-made one it generally seems to be to long or to short... Besides at 62 I still feel I can still learn new tricks!

Thanks a bunch...

Capt Roy
If it doesn't work, read the instructions. If it still doesn't work, follow them!

Frankie the Fink

If they are like brake lines you'll need a way to bend the tubing and a single/double flaring tool to make the ends correctly:

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/p...flaring%2Ctool

I use a tubing bender but some people fill the lines with fine sand (or they even make a compound to use for this) so they can make sharp bends.
You should practice both skills, bending and flaring, on scrap before you do it for real.

mikem350

Why not look at a similar stock setup and use those lines. Lots of stuff in catalogs...

Or if you want to "roll your own" start with stiff wire to get the approx shape, then commence bending!

Sky65

Courtesy of Mr Lars Grimsrud.

How to Build a Fuel Line.pdf

Ironcross

Your fuel line is either 3/8 or 5/16 ths. depending on the HP . The tools sre the double flaring tools, tubing cutter and some tubing benders. The best 'benders' are made by "Weatherhead or Imperial". Not cheap but THE correct tool. Anything less is a waste of money. Available at tool houses or even Plumbing supply houses. I go from 3/16 to 1/2 inch. If you can, buy these sizes. 3/16, 1/4, 5/16, and 3/8. These cover all of the Vettes lines. Your friends will love you.

'fdreanos' suggestion of some practice lines should help.

Hitch

I like that fuel line and have made it with the brake line that Lars recommends. However at 35 bucks a pop for the brake line I bought the flaring tool that make the double inverted flare required for the fuel filter specified.



However the flaring tool is not cheap... I found it the cheapest at $275 but it seems it will be worth it... Here is the first link I found...

http://www.bizrate.com/automotiverep...121092026.html

Dave

Plasticman

I made mine with mostly AN fittings and flares using 3/8 brake/fuel line.

If you need any "special" fittings, here is the place to go:

http://www.performanceplumbing.com/

Note that tern plated (standard plated) brake line should polish up using standard metal polish to an "almost" SS look.

Plasticman

jim lockwood

In my opinion, this is such an important point that it deserves emphasis. Don't use cheap benders. Attempting to do so is just an exercise in frustration. Buy the best and it will be easy to make nice looking hard lines.

Jim

Olustee bus

Get the latest issue of StreetRodder. Good article.

Mr D.

I make 45 degree double flares and bend lines with my Snap On tubing kit and a standard tube bender. Never had a problem, so I'm not sure you need a $275 tool for this task.

Frankie the Fink

I'm with you - I added a dual reservoir, power brake M/C unit onto my '66 Mustang with a lot of bending and flaring and had to redo maybe one flair - all with a set of tools I got for under $40 (and I can't find my darn dble flaring tool now ?!). $275 is fine if you are a commercial shop I guess but not absolutely necessary - in my case it would just allow me to make mistakes with more precision!

Black_Magic

Here's what I did to "Make A Fuel Line" ==> Click Here


George

66since71

Surprised no one has mentioned compression fittings. I buy brake lines to get the correct flare for the fuel pump and carb ends, and use compression fittings for the filter connections. (I know they are no-no for brake lines, but fuel pressures are low enough that this works very well)

kenmo

Many in my neck of the woods use cooper for fuel lines. Especially from the fuel tank to the rubber hose going to the fuel pump. Steel is used from the fuel pump to the carb.

Any thoughts on cooper?

Plasticman

Ken,

Copper should not be used. It work hardens as it flexes or is bent, and eventually breaks (not good for a fuel line to break!).

But to be reasonable, it may take a long time for it to break.

Plasticman

Mossy66

Why didn't you ask this question yesterday before I did my fuel line?

Double inverted flare? First time I ever heard of that!
I guess it's back to the drawing board for me.:o

Gerry

lovevettes

Capt Roy, Make sure you read the fourth paragraph under #8 on Lars --- "How to build a fuel line " AN type fittings are 37 degrees and normally other automotive is 45 degrees , don't use a 37 degree fitting with a 45 Degree flaring tool. Most of the flaring tools you see are 45 degrees. Be careful. Hydraulic lines in industry is "AN".

Capt Roy

Thanks for all the input... I think I ready to tackle this..

Thanks again,

Capt Roy

Mr D.

37 degrees is a aviation standard while 45 degrees is a automotive standard. This is so you don't use automotive lines on aircraft.

You would be surprise what some people will do to fix an aircraft to save a few $$. I'm talking about private civil aviation.

Plasticman

Not sure I believe that is the true reason, but the fact is, it is easier to make a 37 degree flare than a 45, especially in SS tubing (if you have the right tools).

I modified a standard 45 degree flaring tool to make 37 degree flares, and it worked great (in other words, sealed up tight the first time tightened, and absolutely no leaks in +5 years).

Plasticman