BrettG

Does anyone have a good tip / trick to secure the valve covers to the head to ensure they don't leak / sweat?

Are there any good permatex products for this application?

zim64

I just use good 5/16 Fel-pro cork gaskets. I glue them to the valve cover, and put a light coating of cooking spray on the head side. That allows them to come off without sticking.

BrettG

Should have mentioned that I've already purchased the correct cork gaskets from LICS.


Are they prone to leaking between the gasket & head or gasket & cover?

Joel 67

I use a light coat of RTV on the head side, then put the cork gasket down then a light coat of wheel bearing grease on the gasket on the valve cover side (again so the gasket can be resused easily).

IMHO, when these gaskets leak it is because of over tightening, an old gasket, or improper installation.

jim lockwood

If you absolutely, positively don't want to see an oil leak, use Permatex Right Stuff on both sides of clean, oil-free gaskets. This stuff isn't like RTV at all. It sticks with ferocious tenacity and you don't have to wait for it to cure before returning the engine to service. It comes in an aerosol can which makes it trivial to lay down a uniform bead.

One warning, it ain't cheap. Figure on about $20 for a can.

This is the only sealer I use when building an engine and it's the only sealer I carry with me when I take my vintage racer to the track.

Coves4me

I have always trusted Permatex products and I use a skim coat of "red" silicone sealant on both sides of the valve cover gaskets before installing on the heads. I snug up the screws and then tighten them about 3/4 turn. After about 3 or 4 cycles of engine use, I re-tighten the screws until tight, usually about a 1/2 turn. No leaks whatsoever.

JohnZ

After making sure the seal surface on the cover is dead flat (especially around the bolt holes), I glue the cork gaskets to the valve cover with a thin bead of Permatex Hi-Temp "Ultra-Copper" RTV, let them sit overnight, then install them. Snug them up, then re-check after about an hour's run time - have never had a leaker, either with steel or aluminum covers, and the valve covers will come right off for valve adjustment without damaging the gaskets. The primary leak path is between the cover and the gasket, not between the head and the gasket.

aworks

Thats the way I do it and I use the same Right Stuff. Works every time. I buy it in the small tube that fits in a small cauking gun.

knight37128

It's a big block, they don't leak like the mouse stuff.

aworks

Yea right.

builder

Does anyone use neoprene gaskets? I've had good luck with those.

I always check for a straight and clean surface too. Especially on steel covers. Most people overtighten the cover bolts too. That never helps.

abe g

Does anyone have a source for rubber gaskets to fit 63 swc valve covers? My experience with my old mercedes with rubber valve cover gaskets show much superior to cork. PS I still use Indian shellac to seal gaskets and it still works great. (water pumps, hold in place, etc) Regards, Abe G

builder

I buy my rubber valve cover gaskets for my sbc's at Advanced Auto. I would assume they are readily available at most parts stores.

GCD1962

Use steel core Perm-aline gaskets from Moroso Part #93021. Rubber molded over a steel core, you can use them over and over. Great sealing and no gook needed

Dicecal

Which is the correct thickness cork gasket, 5/16" or 7/16"? Thanks

wmf62

i looked at the Summit catalog and it seems to indicate that the 93021 is for aftermarket heads and the 93020 is for stock heads.
Bill

Ironcross

Most of the time it will not make any difference. The thicker gasket is a optional oversize gasket for clearance issues. The important part is correctly appling the gasket to the overhead cover to avoid leaks. Most of the replys have it covered one way or another.

sub006

Unless Mr. Moto is your mechanical guru, I presume you meant "no GOOP required"?

OldKarz