Gordonm

I have been out measuring a lot and trying to come up with a better mount for the Jeep box. I measured from the centerline of the steering shaft on the box to the mounting flange on the jeep box vs the stock Vette box. The jeep box will have to be moved over 5/16 of an inch to line up with the steering column. So there is a 5/16 difference from the jeep box to the stock Vette box from the shaft to the mounting flange. Why not just take a 5/16 plate and mount the jeep box to it with countersunk screws. Then mount the whole plate and jeep box to the frame. Either weld the plate right to the frame or for us welder challenged people drill the plate/jeep box and mount it to the stock frame holes.
The "kits" use a shim and some fabricated brackets to accomplish this so everything is lined up Does it sound easier and maybe a little more stable to mount the jeep box to the plate then mount the whole thing in.

Durango_Boy

I like your idea, but guys with headers would not have room me thinks. It's tight enough as is it with the Jeep box on the frame...and then take another 5/16" away?

68 NJConv 454

As I mentioned, i don't care for the mounting that the "kits" offer as seen in the pics below. The idea of sandwiching the jeep box moutning flange between metal brackets and the frame is not appealing to me. And the new holes that are drilled into the jeep box mounting flange and sandwich brackets barely have enough material around them.
I would recommend using the stock Jeep 4 mounting holes.
Take a slice out of the frame on the steering box side, and weld in a thick plate to the frame like you describe. Then drill new mounting holes thru the frame rail and bolt the jeep box using the stock jeep 4 mounting holes to that. Much stronger and you can weld the plate so the jeep box lines up.
You can bolt the jeep box to the plate but the mounting holes will interfeer with eachother and I don't think your mounting plate is thick enough to cover the bolts and still line up with the steering shaft.

Here are some pics of the jeep box for you guys to visualize. I unfortunately used the "kit" mounting.
Norval used the welding method mentioned above, its his idea and a damn good one.

Gordonm

Your going to have to move it over anyway to line up the steering shaft. What is the difference if you "shim" it or use a plate. I have a set of 1 3/4 inch Super Comps and that is what I am trying to determine. Do I have the clearance for the mod at all.

corbyscott

hey guys I have seen this Jeep mod in a couple of threads how much difference does this mod make?

68 NJConv 454

Depends what your comparing it to.
To manual steering.....loads of difference.
To stock power steering.....some difference but no leaky cylinders.
To rack and pinion....can't comment but probably not much difference.

The ease of turning the steering wheel even in the parking lot with my jeep box feels like i'm driving my 07 trailblazer.
Only "quirk" with the jeep box is its sensivity to turning the wheel at high speeds, it tends to be very sensitive b/c more power steering fluid is running thru the jeep box unit and steering is absolutely effortless. Takes some getting use to.

Zychron

The position of the Jeep box pitman arm center link hole (with the gear centered) to the mounting flange is 1.250 inches. The position of the Vette box pitman arm center link hole (with the gear centered) to the mounting flange is 1.000 inches. The mounting flange on a Vette box is not parallel to the input shaft. Measure your gear again, there is approximately a 3 degree difference in the input shaft and the mounting flange (Jeep box is parallel). Your steering column in the Vette is also at an angle.

You should take this into account when making an adapter plate and or pitman arm. The best solution might be to machine the mounting flange the same angle as the Vette box.

Gordonm

Interesting. I did not know this. This must be why they only shim the back side of the jeep box.

I'm Batman

Yep.

Aggitated Monkey

How quick is the jeep box at hwy speed? does anyone know if it is more sensitive that some R & P's like BMW or Jag.

I used to have an '85 XJS and I thought it took some getting used to as it was sensitive at speed. The BMW has "0" play and responds with any movement.

If that is what the jeep box will do then i think i would like it.

silverslashstreak

Gord0mn, that is exactly the way I mounted mine and my sons about 4 years ago. It has been fine for over 25000 miles and alot of auto crossing. It also lines up fine also. Here is the best pic I have of it.



Jeff

Aggitated Monkey

That just look right Very clean and functional looking. What did you do for the pitman arm?

Looking at the kit just gives me a bubba feeling.

silverslashstreak

I think it was a mid 70s chevelle, just roamed the junk yard until I found one the correct length and then made a bushing for the drag link connection.

king1971

Sounds like this mod could get you into trouble if you hit the wrong spot in the road but if the slop is gone its worth it to me!

silverslashstreak

I have over 25000 miles on mine on all kind of roads at high speed with no problems. It is light years ahead of the old catch up system that our cars came from the factory with. The car is totally predictable even on uneven 2 lane roads.

Jim Shea

I had my nephew do some overlays of the production Corvette manual gear mounting versus the Saginaw model 600 Jeep power gear. They might help in the mounting. He tried to keep the centerline of the pitman shaft the same between the two gears.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y38...arMounts-1.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y38...GearMounts.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y38...untOverlay.jpg

The following are three views of the model 600 Jeep gear. The underlined dimensions indicate the Corvette manual gear dimensions and you can compare them to the 600 gear dimensions on the drawing. One thing to note is that the three Corvette manual gear mounting pads are at a 3 degree angle to the centerline of the gear. The four Jeep 600 gear mounting pads are exactly in line with the centerline of the gear.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y38...00GearSide.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y38...ualFront-1.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y38...anualTop-1.jpg

Jim

silverslashstreak

That is a good point Jim. The way that I insured that the center line was correct on my mounting system was to clamp the box to the frame and get the gear on high center and bolt the pitman arm to the drag link and the idler arm to the drag link. Then I put a level on the drag link and tilted the jeep box until the drag link was level and equal distance from each lower a frame.

Gordonm

Jim, Thanks for these. This is exactly what I was looking for. This will really help. Printed them all out.

Jeff, That is how I was going to check mine also. This thread is really helping me out and I'm sure others as well.

68 NJConv 454

So the two lower bolts are the only bolts holding the unit to the frame??
Does that plate cover the jeep box mounting flange closest to the front of the car? To gain proper alignment with my steering column the front jeep box flange needed to but up against the frame, otherwise the jeep box would be parallel to the curve of the frame and not line up with the column. The rear most side of the jeep box mounting flange had to be shimmed away from the frame rail to line up with the steering column.

silverslashstreak

All 3 stock bolts are in use, I ran them through from the inside out and 1 bolt I had to make the head a little smaller. Then I bolted the box to the plate and then ran the 3 bolts through the frame and put nuts on the outside of the frame.

My suggestion is always to buy Toms package deal, for 675.00 it is the best way to go, bolt it on in an afternoon and forget it, it just wasn't available when I did mine.