What the heck!?
#1
Burning Brakes
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What the heck!?
Getting the strangest problem after an intake+carb swap. I'm using an Edelbrock performer 2101, 1/2" spacer, and a Road Demon 625cfm carb. My throttle cable is not yet attached and I'm able to start it just by turning the key.
THE PROBLEM:
If I try to start it, it will usually start right away. If I stop cranking it won't crank again. (Hit the starter, hear starter clunk, see lights dim, no crank.) If I wait 5-10 minutes it will work again. :confused: The same thing happens if I start it. I can't restart it right away. If it's warmed up it seems to be less of a wait. Cold it seems to take a while.
My dad thinks it's my battery cables. I admit that they have some corrosion but I'm going to take a dremel to them today. Battery cables just doesn't make sense to me. If the connection was bad and not letting enough current through it shouldn't ever crank or dim the lights right? It also seems to me that a bad connection wouldn't behaive so predictibly.
My thought is that something is wrong with the exaust valve assembly (lifter, rocker etc). When the intake manifold was off a friend of mine grabbed one of the pushrods, got a funny look on his face and asked if I had adjusted the lash yet. (something I haven't done) The engine is an L-48 so the cam setup is hydraulic. Also, when the engine is running, there is a noticable knocking/clacking sound from the no. 8 cylinder; the same one serviced by the rods my friend questioned me about. Also when running I get no stumble, idles smoothly at ~700RPM. No smoke from the tailpipes (true duals) and no water in the oil.
Does anybody have any suggestions?
THE PROBLEM:
If I try to start it, it will usually start right away. If I stop cranking it won't crank again. (Hit the starter, hear starter clunk, see lights dim, no crank.) If I wait 5-10 minutes it will work again. :confused: The same thing happens if I start it. I can't restart it right away. If it's warmed up it seems to be less of a wait. Cold it seems to take a while.
My dad thinks it's my battery cables. I admit that they have some corrosion but I'm going to take a dremel to them today. Battery cables just doesn't make sense to me. If the connection was bad and not letting enough current through it shouldn't ever crank or dim the lights right? It also seems to me that a bad connection wouldn't behaive so predictibly.
My thought is that something is wrong with the exaust valve assembly (lifter, rocker etc). When the intake manifold was off a friend of mine grabbed one of the pushrods, got a funny look on his face and asked if I had adjusted the lash yet. (something I haven't done) The engine is an L-48 so the cam setup is hydraulic. Also, when the engine is running, there is a noticable knocking/clacking sound from the no. 8 cylinder; the same one serviced by the rods my friend questioned me about. Also when running I get no stumble, idles smoothly at ~700RPM. No smoke from the tailpipes (true duals) and no water in the oil.
Does anybody have any suggestions?
#2
C6 the C5 of tomorrow
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Re: What the heck!? (Cookwithvette)
I would definitly check the battery cables, use a wire brush to clean them, no need for the dremel ( and if they are THAT bad, get new cables!)
As far as the lifter noise, i'd would definitly check the adjustment, hyd lifters should be quiet! It may be that the lobe on the cam is worn causing the lifter to have more lash that it should...
As far as the lifter noise, i'd would definitly check the adjustment, hyd lifters should be quiet! It may be that the lobe on the cam is worn causing the lifter to have more lash that it should...
#3
Melting Slicks
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Re: What the heck!? (427V8)
a commonly missed place is where the negative battery cable attaches to the frame...
usually dirt and oil works its way in there .......
i find that disconnecting that and roughing that metal up to bare metal will do the job..
also your cables could be bad....
a negative batt cable is easy to replace.
a positive is a major PITA
usually dirt and oil works its way in there .......
i find that disconnecting that and roughing that metal up to bare metal will do the job..
also your cables could be bad....
a negative batt cable is easy to replace.
a positive is a major PITA
#4
Drifting
Re: What the heck!? (daily_driver)
I concur with daily driver. I replaced my starter-to-frame cable about 3 months ago, and now the car starts up just by flicking the key. It made an amazing difference.
#5
Burning Brakes
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Thanks guys.
Rain finally stopped around here and I was able to get back to working on the car. :) Went at those cables with some sandpaper and BANG! It's fixed. The regularity still has me bamboozled but if it works, I'm not complaining.
Well, actually... Now I have another problem. The passenger side exaust is smoking like crazy. I just installed a throttle cable bracket and in the process had to check WOT several times (while off). Is this smoke just left over from all the gas I dumped? (please say yes, please please say yes.) Also while I was fiddling with the throttle I noticed (after several pumps) that gas was leaking out of the area the throttle lever attaches to. Does this just happen if you pump the throttle a bunch of times with the engine off or is something wrong with the carb?
Again, thanks a bunch.
./matt
Well, actually... Now I have another problem. The passenger side exaust is smoking like crazy. I just installed a throttle cable bracket and in the process had to check WOT several times (while off). Is this smoke just left over from all the gas I dumped? (please say yes, please please say yes.) Also while I was fiddling with the throttle I noticed (after several pumps) that gas was leaking out of the area the throttle lever attaches to. Does this just happen if you pump the throttle a bunch of times with the engine off or is something wrong with the carb?
Again, thanks a bunch.
./matt
#6
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Re: Thanks guys. (Cookwithvette)
Smoke is probably the "left over" gas. And yes a Quadrajet will get worn throttle shafts with age, but it shouldn't leak fuel there. You will get a vacuum leak when they are real bad.
#8
Burning Brakes
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Re: Thanks guys. (Cookwithvette)
take the carb back to where you bought it because it should not be leaking around the shaft and you are taking chance of the big bang theory visiting your vette.
#9
Race Director
Re: What the heck!? (Cookwithvette)
Was that carb box "previously opened"??? Maybe it was a problem for someone else and resold to you now being "your problem". As the other post said, take it back and if you get another, make sure it comes out of an "unopened package". :seeya
#10
Burning Brakes
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Aw, crap.
I got the carb from Summit by mail and it was unused. I'm going to the showroom tomorrow in Ohio so I'll get a swap then.
As always; Thanks guys!!!
./matt
As always; Thanks guys!!!
./matt