nunus79

Would a tight LSA cam do it? If so, how tight. 110? 108? 106?

Right now with my 114 lsa cam, I get no boom, just a linear puuuuuullllllllllll.

I'm planning on swapping to a single plane. I don't mind losing some low end power. What's your cam recommendations?

Ganey

Comp Cams XE262 w/ Comp lifters & valve springs. Do the cam before the intake, will take off at higher rpm & you won't need a single plane to lose some low end.

:cool:

63Banshee

Actually, the cam you have listed in your sig is good for mid range. Are you sure you don’t want a more aggressive design with upper rpm power? You could use a new converter too, something that comes in around 2600. New converter and 232@.050 / 480+ lift cam would feel good.

gkull

With a free flowing exhaust you can install a single pattern or nearly single pattern cam. For the price you can't beat solid flat tappet cams.

Your compression ratio has allot to do with how low of an LSA # you can use

The bigger the duration the bigger the the LSA # has to be to maintain the same amount of overlap. Overlap causes low idle vacuum and soggy bottom end responce

A higher lift motor will produce the same amount of power as longer duration low lift. That is if your heads have the ability to flow more cfm as lift increases. My Vette has not had a cam with under .500 lift intake in 20 years and hopefully the next 20 it won't ever have under .635. If I was convinced that .700 was OK for 10K miles I'd be doing that.

nunus79

FYI. Maurice, Cappy, & I are chasing the Holy Grail (12sec ET). The last one there is the rotten egg (Maurice doesn't know this yet, heehee). Whether I will smell bad or not, I am commited to joing their ranks. First concession, I will hardly use the Vette on the street for beer runs anymore. Second, I'll live with a rough or higher rpm idle. Third, I might go to a 3000 stall if necessary.

So with giving no care to nice "streetable" manners anymore, do your recommendations still stand?

I was eyeballing CompCam's 270 Magnum w/110lsa, Erson's Hi-flo 284 cam, 220@50 w/.472" w/108lsa, and Crane's Energizer 274 cam w/106lsa. Anybody heard anything about these cams?

SteveG75

All those cams have been around for quite a while. Old-tech. How about a cam that is 218/224 @ .050, .525/.525 lift and 112 LSA. GM HOT cam.

74VETTE is running this cam in a ZZ4 and has broken into the 12's. Here is a copy of his sig:
Best 1/4 mile time yet-----> 12.98 @ 108.5
ZZ4 with HOTCAM, edelbrock 750cfm carb and all the goodies!
Muncie M-21, with hurst comp plus shifter
3.55:1 Rear-End
Chambered exhaust with crossover
Custom forced ram air induction
His web site: http://loki.stockton.edu/~stk15290/vette/Stingray.html

Ganey

Yes that changes things, bump it up on the Comp Cam to 28OH or XE274.

:cool:

nunus79

Steve
You nailed me. I am old-tech. Roller cams are something I'm not familiar with. But my even worst personal characteristic is that I don't like to spend $$. I appreciate the suggestion though.

Ganey
I want to keep the rpms down below 6000. 5500 rpm shift points preferably. Do you think the stock L48 bottom end can handle more? Thanks

PatsLs1vette

i have the energizer with the 106 and dont really care for it, ill be switching soon

63Banshee

Looks like you are getting confused with all the input. Keep in mind that your converter selection is going to be based on the power curve of the cam. You stated that you don’t think you will rev the motor beyond 5500 (because you don’t think it will take more?) and you are considering a 3000 stall converter (not a smart move).

First, don’t sweat spinning your motor to 6000. If it has been properly maintained then it should have no problems operating to that level.

Second, select a cam with a performance range that peaks near (preferably slightly under) 6000 rpm. Typically a cam that has a peak power curve at this level will have low-end power coming in at around 2500. A cam with this power curve would have a grind very close to the one I stated above.

Third, select a converter that will optimize the power curve. Again, as already stated, a 2600 stall converter would be just about right.

As far as intakes go I’d opt for a high-rise air-gap dual plane manifold. These intakes typically provide power from 2000 – 6500 rpm.

Don’t forget new valve springs to go with that cam. Good luck!



[Modified by 63Banshee, 9:34 AM 11/30/2001]

gkull

I was returning 5 point seats to Summit last night and they had " Desktop dyno software" for $38.95. Maybe somebody else will chime in on the virtues of the program. If you want the program I will send it to you.

You ask me when you were about the torque curve that really hits. After giving it much though. I would say to you, "Your not riding a 2-cycle dirt bike that's on and off the pipe." The fastest car will always be the one with the highest average HP&TQ from above the stall to red line.

tsw71

Nunus, since you already have a good pair of heads and are geared fairly well, why not go with a mild solid like the 282s that I have or one of the one hydraulics that Ganey mentioned. These will give you what your looking for as far as power range. The comp 282s really comes to life at about 2800 and will make peak power around 5700rpm. The idle is very smooth(slight lope at 750rpm) and vacuum is respectable(13-14"). I'm running the Torquer II with mine, but given the power range of the cam, the Performer you already have should work fine. That's one less thing to buy $$$$$$. As far as the converter goes, it should work well enough for this cam , so you should be able to cheat a little and use what you have now. Also, all that talk about constantly adjusting solids is :bs .

Tom

Stingy74

You're right, averages are what should be looked at but what about when one cam makes 15-20 more hp at peak? Isn't that like the equivelent of 1.5-2.0mph in drag racing terms? And doesn't the same go for when one gains similar peaks when using single plane intakes and 3" exhaust? Everyone tells me that torque is what gets you moving and that's what you gotta worry about. Well i've never had a problem getting moving before. Just get the right gears and convertor. It's after I get moving that I worry about. It always seems that whenever you get beat it's usually when the torque has allready fallen off (ie: 6000+) and you and the other guy are fighting to get in those last few rpm's towards the end of the race. I don't know, maybe it's just me but all torque has even done for me is spin tires and create smoke.


[Modified by Stingy74, 11:06 AM 11/30/2001]

gkull

Stingy your right about the towards the end of the race. I always have felt sorry for those guys that use 4 valve relief pistons :rolleyes: It's just not only the compression loss. It's extra dilution of the incoming charge and it causes the motor to drop off faster after peak torq.

nunus79

Stingy
EXACTLY, EXACTLY, what I'm thinking. For the street, no question, you build a torque motor. For the strip, you build a SETUP which includes a "2-stroke-like" motor, peaky. That's my belief.

Pat
Thank you very much for your input on that cam. We run similar hardware. You saved me a bunch of money & effort. This forum is great :cool: Hopefully I can return the favor someday.

Banshee
It appears you've been down this road before. :D I am taking good notes on your recommendations as I will probably end up with a setup very close to what you've spec'd. Appreciate it.

Tsw
OK. You've got me PUMPED. Solids baby. I just stumbled on that grind while doing research on Ganey's recommendations last night. Kind of fits right in with the cam specs recommended so far.

George
After I slap all of this hardware together and start the tuning & tweaking, you better not change your email address on me. Look at this as a good opportunity to challenge of your tuning ability. :lol: Just kidding. But knowing you and the rest of the "hotrodders" here on the forum are around gives me the confidence to try something new. SOLIDS!!!!