k_belknap

3 quick multi-questions to start off with as I begin my endeavor into painting my '81. I have not painted a car in 15 years, so I'll be re-learning some 'stuff'.

1) If removing paint via razor blade, isn't possible to seriously gouge fiberglass... even if you are being very careful. If so, do you rely on primer fillers and putty to fix those gouges?

2) It would appear I need to remove the headlight assemblies in order to get the best results (since I am completely stripping the paint). Is this a difficult procedure? HOw long would it normally take to remove/reinstall them?

3) I see no great benefit to removing the front and back urethane bumpers. Is this bad thinking.. and if so, why.


Lastly, if anyone is in the Dallas/Fort Worth area and is crazy enough to come over and help me... feel free! I'll be pulling the engine and transmission soon, too! :cheers:


[Modified by k_belknap, 2:55 AM 11/26/2001]


[Modified by k_belknap, 2:55 AM 11/26/2001]

yellow 72

When stripping with razor blades nicks in the glass are unavoidable.
I filled the larger ones with resin the small stuff was taken care of with the
spray gelcoat or the primer surfacer.
It's best to remove as much as possible when stripping, preping, painting.
But be sure everthing fits properly and lines up correctly before the final finish.

lars

I just e-mailed you some tech papers that will answer most of your questions.

lou

I would remove the headlight bezels and then close the assemblies. Paint the bezel off the car. This goes for the mirrors too. take them off and paint them. I have heard that you don't have to remove the bumpers, but it is a good idea to loosen it and seperate an 1/8 of an inch. This lets the paint turn the corners of the seam and you get a factor finish. If you don't, the seems can look shotty and chip. Another thing is to make sure you headlights are aligned properly and don't touch or rub the car in the up and down and transision positions. This can ruin a paint job instantly. One other area I've noticed is the top aft edge of the door tucks under the halo section of the car when the door is closed. This will leave a small 1/2 square unpainted or poorly covered that is noticed later when you open the door. I would also consider removing the lower air dam and painting it seperate, but then there is a possibility that the paint on the lower bumber may be damaged while putting it back together. Good luck. lou

LAvetteman

1. I would not trust myself with a razor blade on a car. I sanded. I used vette panel filler on majority of my repairs, but like Lars said prime/block/re-prime will give the best results. I have a bunch of K-36 primer surfacer for sale, CHEAP.
2. I removed my headlight assemblies, it was a pain, the worst part was going back on, scratches were almost unavoidable. A buddy of mine who helped me didn't remove his when he painted his 76, he told me I was brave for removing that stuff. But when he raised his lights to paint, dirt flew off the door and onto his wet paint. I would definetly paint the bezels seperate, those aren't that hard to remove.
3. I wouldn't, but have chrome bumpers so I am not sure of the pros and cons, my buddy didn't remove those either. By the way, he paints on the average 3 cars a year out of his home.
My wifes aunt lived in Fort Worth, if she was still there we could plan a trip and I could sneak off and go join you while "the hens are cacklin" :lol: . Shes in Ohio now.


[Modified by 71,454,4spd, 9:46 PM 11/25/2001]


[Modified by 71,454,4spd, 10:17 PM 11/25/2001]

Larry B.

When I did my 69 I removed everything except the headlight assemblies and the little stainless strip on the top of the door edge. Absolutely remove the light inner bezels. Speaking of headlights rubbing when opening/closing. Just FYI ....EVEN if they do not rub as you watch, be aware they still may rub when you open them driving at highway speed... Air pushes them back as they open ! I had one car that did that.